Tim_R

Is the car cranking over ok, just not firing? Got a spark at the plugs? 3 pin connector for the hall sender on the dizzy plugged in? If the ecu doesn't get a signal from that, it won't switch the coil to give a spark.

Drop me a PM, we might be able to come to some arrangement to have a look at it one evening.

Can your code reader clear the codes? If it can, clear the codes, run it and read it again to make sure what your seeing are fresh errors not just old stuff. That error seems to refer to the EVAP system, there are 2 solenoids in the emissions control system down by the metering head, should be 2 flatish disc shaped objects with a 2 pin electrial connector going to each one and a load of pipework linking back to the inlet system. Check the connectors incase the wires going into them are broken or frayed. I don't think they would cause the issues you are having with the car not running though to be honest, the conversion in my car doesn't have the valves at all and seems pretty happy. :) I think your best bet is to check over all the rubber ducting and pipework on the inlet system for splits, the boot from the metering head has a habit of splitting underneath and letting the engine draw in unmetered air.

That link seems to give some different info in the fields to what I have. Volkswagen Scan Tool Companion, 1990-1995 from amazon will help with decoding it if you want the full book, this covers the 9a and many other engines. According to that book 80 is about 68 degrees. Drop me a pm with your email and I'll send over some of the relevant info you might need from it. :) It's all a bit chucked together at the moment and will need a bit of reading.

Hi mate, I'm guessing that is group 6 in vagcom? When started from cold it should read 000 for about 30 seconds to a minute then start giving a reading as the lambda has heated up enough to work. Below are a few lines from my own vagcom, In the 6th column there is a 0 as the car is running without lambda feedback the starts reading 254, 252 as it starts to control fueling. 136 21 38 227 222 0 130 0 5 157 136 30 39 227 222 254 130 0 5 154 135 28 35 226 222 252 129 0 5 148 135 36 37 226 223 250 129 0 5 150 It wouuld be worth looking at the first column as your engine warms up, its the engine coolant temperature and the numbers should drop steadily as the coolant warms up. If that is doing something strange, or reading 220 the ecu will think its freezing and fuel to compensate, then you'll need a new sensor, they are about 8 quid from GSF, a lot cheaper than a new lambda!

Slacken off the 2 bolts that lock the dizy in place and turn anti clockwise to advance and clockwise to retard the ignition timing. Mark it before you start and advance it small amounts at a time. If you can get it over to Bristol I'm happy to take a look and can put vag com on it, but I'm only around weekday evenings.

Sounds to me like your ignition timing wasn't setup correctly when the distributer was replaced. What was the reason for having that replaced? I set my 16v up by the book originally and had no end of trouble with low power and hesitation on accelerating, as soon as i advanced to to around 10 degrees rather than 7 it became completely different. :D

Ok after checking for error codes on the car after taking it out at lunchtime, when it died once, I've got the error "Mixture control Adjustment Limit - Adaptation limit surpassed - Intermittant".

The 9a doesn't have a normal CPS, it has an inductive loop on nunber 4 ignition lead which gives the ecu the engines position. That said I haven't checked it over that pickup, but assumed the engine wouldn't run at all if the ecu didn't get a signal.

Top right hand side of the gearbox next to or near the slave cylinder iirc. I thought it was just a sender for the speedo originally but starting to wonder if i was wrong.

Hi, I'm hoping someone can shed some light on a problem I've got with my 16v. Firstly a bit of background about it, its no longer in a corrado as I transplanted the engnine and KE Motronic system across to my scirocco. I swapped everything across except for the gearbox, which means I don't have the electronic speed sensor on the car and I'm wondering if this may have something to do with one of the isses I have. The ecu isn't logging any fault codes except the speed sensor and even that is intermittant. :confused4: The biggest problem is that the engine will cut out on dipping the clutch when coming up to junctions. This doesn't always happen, sometimes the ecu catches it at the point the engine almost dies and brings the revs up again to normal idle, other times it will just die as if its been turned off. When this has happened the engine can be restarted instantly and then idles at normal speed. I'm wondering if the ecu cuts all fuel when coasting on a closed throttle and uses the speed sensor to tell it when to turn the fuel back on for idle, Non of my books on KE mention a speed sensor at all however. So far I've swapped the ISV for one I've cleaned out. Brand new rubber boot on the inlet New inlet manifold gaskets Changed the metering head for a spare with less miles on that hasn't been tampered with. I have yet to change the lambda but I don't want to get a new one unless I can prove this one is definatly at fault due to the cost. No error codes in the ecu for it. If I disconnect the differental pressure regulator and potentiometer on the metering head so the engine runs in K-jet mode the ecu bumps the idle up to just over 1000 rpm and I don't have the problem. The only other thing I can think of that may be linked is that the idle isn't rock steady, it fluctuates by about 200rpm when warm. Sorry for the long post and thanks for any advice. Cheers, Tim

From the figures you have quoted, it looks like you already have one. Do you have any history from the car the engine came from that might tell you?

You can't really bypass the isv, just swap for another one, but all it controls is the amount of air going into the engine at idle, it doesn't affect the spark.

If it starts and runs for a few minutes then dies because it has no spark, then it sounds like something in your ignition system is overheating and breaking down. Start with the cheap and easy stuff like dizzy cap and rotor arm if they are old. You say you have changed the dizzy, is it a brand new one, if not then the hall sender could be faulty, if you still have the old dizzy try swapping it back as a temporary measure. If that makes no difference then then next thing up the line is going to be the coil and ignition amplifier which I *think* has to be replaced as one unit. I can't see one listed on the gsf website so it may be a vw only part which could be expensive.

Is there anyone in the Bristol area who has vag-com and a 2x2 connector that would be able to help me out diagnosing faults on my 9a engine management? I've managed to get blink codes out of the ECU but I can't tell if the errors I'm getting are old or current. The problems I'm having at the moment is that the car is running very very lean, I've had to modify the fueling slightly so its running richer but its not set correctly. I've also been having problems with the idle stability unless the afm potentiometer is unplugged, with everything connected the car revs itself from about 800 to 1000 rpm and back. Any help would be much appreciated.

Would I have to have VAG-COM to put it in basic adjustment mode or does this automaticly happen when reading off error codes in the way Haynes suggests

Hi, I've recently finished a 9a conversion on my scirocco using the standard corrado ke-motronic management, all was going well for a couple of weeks until it started dying when coming up to junctions and dipping the clutch. I've checked the ISV and even swapped it out, no different. I've eventually traced the problem back to the potentiometer attached to the air flow sensor on the metering head, with that unplugged it now pulls as it should do from low revs. I've measured the voltage I get across this as the sensor is lifted up and get 0.2v when closed and 4.69v when fully open. I can't find any specs for this in the haynes passat manual, another book I have says that voltage should go from 0.2v to 7v, can anyone confirm if this is correct or not? It may help if I could get into the ECU diagnostics but as I now only have 2 wires relating to the ecu's diagnostice pins I can't follow the Haynes instructions wich seems to involve a 6 pin plug. The wires I have are white/grey and solid yellow and go to pins 1 and 22 of the ecu. Any help would be really really good. Cheers Tim

AFAIK the ecu type box is a static ignition map with alterations based on vacuum which tend to be reliable and the TCI is a transistor that switches and amplifys the signal, I'd say if that wasn't working properly then you'd not get a spark at all. I think from what have said you have an air leak somewhere and its big enough to allow enough air in to upset the air/fuel ratio If you take the airbox off and gently push the metring head air flap up while the engine is being turned over can you get the car to start and run, this is with the ignition in the normal place, you may need to have the throttle slightly open to get it to start, this lets more fuel through to the injectors to allow for extra air getting in. If that works then its a case of checking all pipes and hoses.

I'd say you have an air leak, check the rubber elbows that go from the metering head to the inlet, they go hard and eventually crack and split with movement. Mine has split underneath so you'll have to take it off to check properly. Or get some easy start and spray that around all the joints and pipe connections you can find. the revs should increase if it gets sucked into the engine.