macca

Fiat 127, tuck my girl friends dad to look it over, he said great car. Later shut the door and half of it dropped out, full of filler, to cap it all sold it for spares and the loom set fire when the bloke drove it away. Soon ditched the girl friend :lol: Wife has a punto now which is a great little car.

As posted befor I was loseing a bit of water, and thought with the milage on it i would have a look at the plugs and then do a compression test while the plugs were out. Turns out i have leak from the rad which explains water loss, but those readings show a 20% difference and for the compression to come back with oil in the bore makes me think worn rings. Hoping for as little £££ as possible, runs well, no real oil use, ticks over OK. What do you guys think?? Cheers.

Just did a compression test on my VR, 122k miles, with the clark DIY tester. 1= 150 with oil in cyl up to 190 2=160 as above 185 3=170 4=190 5=170 6=190 Now 1&2 are looking like they need rings, how long can they go for before its critical? How big a job is it, is it worth doing, could sell the car cheap? How much will it cost for a DIY job?? head rings followers etc. Will the block be worth saving? how robust are they?? Any one else had simlar readings and results? Thanks for any input Cheers Guy, looking for a loan :lol:

Looks like I've found my water loss, weeping rad. Whats the best way to replace it, recore original one( local rad bloke wants to put in a copper one, easy to repair ). Buy a new one (not from steallers £200). Best way to fit it? Is a copper one better than Aluminuim?? I thought Alu was better at cooling, heat transfere and all that. all advice welcome Cheers Guy. Colud be adding to that list, what u spent on u C :lol:

Redcar, Cleveland. Near to the beach :D

In the year I have owned the car, all DIY so no labour. £250 tyres £100 on brakes £55 service parts £200 new wheels £129 new CD some twats nicked, plus £60 glass excess £20 paint,wax. Not to bad so far, but have a great wad of reciepts from the two former owners, about 5Ks worth, on keeping the car running , no mods. Would like to keep it that way but dont think it will happen. Cheers Guy.

Looks like the sort of thing I'm after, I thought about H&R springs with standard shocks. What did you use?? Guy

Best bet round M'bro is "Teesside motor factors" just down from the railway station. Had a lot of work done there in the past and they are good. They have a rolloing road if you fancy seeing before and after mod gains. Will quote you a price over the phone, will prob need head skimmed, valves re-cut, possible guides, dont know if they do any porting, as i've done my own in the past. That £4.95, sounds like just the start :) Cheers Guy.

Bruno At the moment I’m getting clued up on the worst case Scenario , and hope I don’t need a new H/G, (would enjoy the challenge though). Read in one of your other posts about "heat stress" if the water is exploding from the header tank, now this is what has happened to mine in the past, what would be the result of heat stress and the cure?? So the piston rings would need replacing, engine out job then? New cam followers? Thats Cleveland NE UK if you were woundering. Cheers Guy.

Usually just above 1/2 and peaking at 3/4 on the temp gauge before fan cuts in. Oil is about 102 at normall to 110 when pushed. I know what you mean, dont fix it untill it breaks. Just read else where VR6s H/G are a bit weak and thought I might be in for a bit of DIY. Once rebuilt a Porsche engine, (snapped head bolts), thought I would do the bottom end while i was on, when it was stripped there was no signs of wear at all, spent a few more £ and a lot of time for no reason. How strong are the VRs bottom ends?? are piston rings a problem? Am going to monitor it closely and see what happens, if its loseing water will start with the easy bits first. Cheers guy.

Hi What mileage for a VR6 Head rebuild? Is it worth doing the bottom end as well? Mine has covered 122K, with a full service history, I noticed a slight loss in water and may be thinking head gasket, no oil in water (that i can tell) no mayo, runs well. Can you get the water tested to see if its contaminated with combustion gas, if so how much and who is likely to do it or can you buy a test kit? And any Ideas on parts prices, head gasket set, new bolts? will new tappets be needed, timming chains, etc. If it needs doing will do it myself. While the head is of is there any porting and flowing to be done? All assuming that it is the head gasket. Cheers Guy

Found the web site where i bought mine from http://www.volkswerk.co.uk/ might have some more Cheers Guy.

jeeves Bought mine from local independant, if your up north you can use it. Guy.

Bumper now sat behind the car in the garage, was easy to get of in the end. Backed of the bolts at top if chin spoiler, then removed the 4 bolts on the cross member, indicators clipped out, disconected wiring looms, and washer jets for head lights. Bumper slid forward and out the way. While the bumper is off, relocated CC to one side, and cut out corner of air box. The real reason was to slow down the rusting process of the lower cross member, which is now in redoxide waiting for a black top coat. Will give a good coat of wax to protect it a bit more, should be up and running Friday. The Bently Cd had some good info. Cheers Guy.

Regulary get 30+ in the MFA, I recon on £10 = 100 miles, mostly short runs as well. But all ways :D Guy.