psykokid

i know this may seem like a shot in the dark, but what shape is the electrical part of your ignition switch in? seen lots of wierd stuff go on because it was on its way out..

bump.. anybody have an idea?

yup, guys here stateside go nuts for them since they only came on very early 92 models. The rest of the VR's all got the standard 2.8 AAA manifold.

the igniton amplifier (ICU/ICM are other names for it) is pictured attached to the same bracket as the knock sensor computer (upper right in the photo)

you can also tell by flipping the manifold over and looking at the part between the throttle body and the main part of the intake runners. The 2.9 has a lager area for airflow vs the 2.8. heres a photo illustrating ABV on the left and AAA on the right

here in the us we are stuck with 2 types of radiators in MK2 cars, the g-60/VR type which has both the inlet and outlet on the same side of the bay (transmission side) and the 16v/8v type which has both the inlet and outlet on the timing belt side of the motor. Does anyone know of a VAG radiator that will fit in MK2 Chassis car that has the inlet on the top left hand side (like a g-60/VR rad) and the outlet on the right hand side (like a 8v/16v rad). I binned the power steering and the A/C so i dont have to use the crossover hardline that the g-60 cars come with. Plus that hardline doesnt fit so well with the front crossmember that the motor mount bolts to from a VR anyhow.. TIA..

The US market seatbelts (ERLA units iirc) are a bit of rube goldberg engineering. Too many moving parts and bits to break over time. I removed my auto belts and replaced them with a set from a chap on here who's car met an untimely demise after a run in with a lorry.. There's alot of archaic stuff that was built in to comply with the us crash standards. Instead of parcel trays we get these pudgy knee bars that cover a huge 40 lb steel beam that runs between the a-pillars behind the dash. When you do take out the ERLA belts there's a huge rats nest of wiring that runs from the fuse box along the door sill back behind the rear seats back around and back along the other sill and terminates at the a-pillar. BTW if anyone wants a set of the us belts i have a complete set plus some spares including all the wiring and switches that are necessary. :) (shameless plug :) )

to replace the front crossmember (subframe) you dont need to put it on a jig. Just make sure you put the car on jack stands and support the motor with another stand since when you remove the front crossmember the front motor mount will have to be unbolted..

some of the later saabs have a dual pass front mount unit thats not too terribly large (900CS or 9-2 here in the states) that seems like it should do a pretty good job. I found one in the wrecker a few months ago but it was knackered.. looked fine from the top, but once i got the bumper cap off it was torn up on the bottom and the end tank was cracked..

anyone have a copy of the wiring diagram for the non a/c 1990 g-60? im removing my a/c and need to comparethe non a/c diagram to the a/c version so i know what i can remove and what needs to stay. the US spec bentley is usually pretty good, but only has diagrams for a/c cars since all corrados sold in the US had a/c

is it a 1980 diesel? last of the german mk1's (in the states that is) gotta love the diesel cars for swaps.. no smog b/s to deal with..

Doin mine tommorrow! tryin to think of a way to do it without the filler cracking :roll: well as the bumper is made of abs you could get a plastic soldering kit and use some bits off of an old bumper to fill in the holes and then make the plastic "welds" a little big and then sand them down then use minimal filler. Prolly be a good idea to brace it on the backside of the bumper as well to add stability. IIRC plastic soldering kits ususally consist of a high wattage soldering gun and some plastic filler rods. A mate of mine used this when he frenched his rear plate into bumper. Came out quite nice and has run for 2 years with no cracks or anything..

A few fellows that i know over here in the US use the ABA block as a 2l bottom end. everything bolts right up. Its pretty much the same long block as the ABF iirc with different pistons. The earlier ABA's have a forged crank and oil squirters to cool the bottoms of the pistons as well. It was a motor developed for the north american market that came in pretty much every 4 cyl mk3 over here. The only exception is the canadians that got the 1.8l engine in the CL trimline and the 1.9 TDI's that came in passats and ventos. Sourcing the pistons wouldnt be a problem as they are a dime a dozen over here. I'm not sure what the c/r that the stock ABF pistons would yield with the G-60 head, but that could be an option as well if the c/r wasnt too high..

If you want to save a few quid what you can do is visit your local breakers and nab the plate off of dam near any turbo volvo. They have a 180 deg thermostat built in. The last one that i picked up i think they charged $5 US, the time before it was just a pocket item. (gotta get the gate fee back somehow :) ) you'll need 2 m16x1.5 to AN thread adaptors if you go that route though.

Blue and White... as per my friends 9A golf.. cross reffed with the etka and the haynes manual for the pressures and the blue is the low pressure one which is .25 bar and the white is the high pressure which is 1.8 bar. The black switch is for 1.6 bar.