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It wont be possible since i bought parts from third-party suppliers due to high cost at stealers. I also changed everything together with my friend who is also car mechanic. Coolant was dark pink in colou, it was mixture G12+ of course, but i found also it was a bit dirty too, looked like brown deposits in there...

OK right now im so Pi$$$ed off so please understand my writing wont be as good as usual :mad: I replaced my original main water pump and aux. water pump at exactly 202.000 KM, with brand new one from Graf with metal impeller (main) and original Bosch (aux) 5.500 KM later, my car suddenly stops in the middle of the road. Took it to my car mechanic and yesterday we found out :( ... I got some pics: WHAT THE HELL!?! How could this possibly happen? It broke three METAL paddles and in the coolant i found only two. The aux pump impeller lost all four paddles, and i coudnt find them anywhere in the flushed coolant either... :evil: :evil: :evil: Now i got only one thing to do. What's the proper way and best solution to completely flush and drain and clean VR6 cooling system, throughly and utterly ? :?: How can i be sure that there are no tiny metal and plastic parts, say in heater core or radiator, that are just waiting to kill my pumps again? Thanks

i want yr car :silent:

Cleaning ISV: Take out HT lead cover, 2 bolts holding it, disconnect ISV (shiny Bosch thing looking almost like aux. water pump), unplug 2 hoses that goes into ISV, take ISV out, buy some type of electtronic contact cleaner, put ISV into small ziptie plastic bag, spray in the bag a serious amount of electronic contact cleaner, close plastic bag, shake plastic bag with reasonable force for 5 minutes, take out ISV, let it completely dry, reconnect everything.

Much more clearer now, thanks mates! But i still can't figure out why would they (VW engineers) keep run-on fans working for more than 1 minute if there is no water circulating through radiator? Why didn't they make separated circuits? When engine is off, fans are cooling only water stored in radiator, right? Remaining water in engine block can't be cooled if there's no main water pump running, and aux. pump obviously recirculating HOT water through the engine head and there's no heat exchangers in aux. pump hose system..?! Ignore the aux pump behaviour, that always comes on with the ignition and stays on for 10 mins after you switch it off, regardless of temperature. I'm afraid this is not the case in my... case. It comes always with the ignition, yes, but if engine is cool (below 80°C) it won't stay on after switching ignition off. I also don't find that possible if its true what dr_mat is saying, i.e aux. pump can't work in ignition-off mode without the fans also working. Like mr StrawFlex said, forget it, just drive the bloody thing. Strawflex :) .. Yeah, forget it and just buy yourself a new battery every month, 'cause run-on fans are sucking all the power for no good reason! :?

OK so i have to write this because i can't set my mind to rest, i always suspect something is going wrong with my C and how it behaves :mad: So, this is how my VR6 works: When you start cold engine, its RPMs immediately jumps to around 1500 RPMs, then fall down at 1000 RPMs and stays there, and then steadily falling down to 650-750 RPMs range as engine gets warmer? During idling and warming, engine temperature should be about 10°C higher than oil temperature? When fully warm and idle, engine is 90-95°C and oil is 96-100°C ? This is how my C VR6 rests: When you shut down the engine which was at its operating temperature (90°-95°), after-run fan and auxilliary water pump kicks in preventing hot spots. I timed how long they run, around 6 minutes and 30 seconds. Then they both shut down at the same time. Then i turn ignition on and see how much temp. has dropped. It was 74°C for oil according to MFA, and little over 80°C for engine. Is this OK? This is what troubles me: 1.When fans and aux. water pump begins its work, after approximately 1 minute, the air blowing through radiator gets cold, while fans and aux. pump still work for 5.5 minutes as i described above. If the aux. water pump circulates water around engine head, shouldn't it be logical that water should go through the radiator too? It seems my fans doing their work for nothing :?: Shoudn't there be a hose that connects aux. pump and radiator so that hot water from engine head can cool down? Or maybe it's flow rate is just not enough for me to notice when i put my hand to feel blowing air temperature? 2. Now, this one happens anywhere between 80°C and 90°C engine temperature and oil 90-100°. When I shut down fully warmed engine, fans and aux. kicks in as it should. THEN, while after-run doing its job; I give ignition on, fans SHUT DOWN but aux. water pump still works!!! I turn key back all the way to off, fans again START and aux. keeps working. Is this NORMAL VR6 procedure? Why does my fans behave like this when i give ignition? 3. When engine is over 90°C and oil is like 120°C, lets say after some racing time, this doesn't happen, i.e. fans don't shut down when ignition on, they keep working together with aux. water pump. I suppose this is OK because it's logical. Thank you for reading, i couldn't explain it any shorter. :oops:

It's normal. You should also be able to hear ABS and fuel pump working for short period of time while ignition on, but aux. water pump should be continuously working smoothly.

Does Techtonics Tuning have distributers for Europe? I really want their 2.5" stainless cat-back system. It's american company but i guess my question is on topic... http://www.techtonicstuning.com/

Thank you all for your comments. I am just back from installing and testing new 75Ah battery. Only problem was that i needed A LOT of cranking, i think 5 times (every try was around 5-6 seconds) to get VR6 started :? It seems my cranking time has doubled this week since im having battery problems. I only needed one short crank before to get it going... Just today i noticed that my instrument table light dims (while motor idling) when i start switching power-hungry devices like fogs, rear window heating, ventilation, etc... I have to mention that i recently installed uprated headlight loom, and switching low beams and high beams have no impact on diming instrument table light whatsoever, at least not the visible difference. Could my alternator be on its way out? I will try to keep you informed about further gremlin activities on my C. :evil:

Two of the best auto electricans in my city were examining car and both of them are saying it's perfectly standard for modern cars equiped with ECU and lots of electronics to be using up to 0.5A when car is completely off. They also checked alternator and starter and said it's fine, not telling me out any volt/amper numbers though... :roll: What they suggested me is, as 0.2/0.3A isnt too much by their opinion, that i should check myself if car turns some electrical devices after long time period sitting shut-down. I dont know what procedures Corrado VR6 is going through when you switch it off besides afterrrun fan/auxiliary pump. When i activate my alarm system, it does some electrical operations up to 15 seconds... So maybe my VR switch on some electrics 1-2 hours after it's ignition is turned down... :?

HI there folks, i drive '92 Corrado VR6 with a little over 200.000KMs on it... I bought it 2 years ago and i already changed two batteries due to drainage/short trips (first was when i bought the car, Varta Blue something, and now i got to replace Bosch Silver) My car produces around 0.2 A when everything off including alarm, and around 0.3 A when Cobra alarm on... I drained it few times almost to death so i think my Bosch have lost a lot of it's 66Ah original capacity. One time I left a car sitting for a week with at that time brand new Bosch, and couldn't start it... Time to replace it but im not sure what's the best one. I was reading in some auto magazine test recently, and original VAG batteries have showed results the best out there. Because i do a lot of short trips, i assume my afterrun fans/electric water pump is a main drain source here so what im looking actually is a battery that charges quickest. Original VAG battery is rather expensive but im ready to buy it if it could solve my problems. Any help/advice appriciated...

Ehm, it seems i cant find anywhere pics of Milltek and Magnex exhaust systems. How does they look from cat-back when installed?

Hello people this is my first, i am writing from Bosnia so be gentle towards my english skillZ :oops: I own '92 Corrado VR6 unmoded except K&N cone air filter. Previous owner did a de-cat (straight pipe now there) and made some very bad DIY piping with Remus muffler at the end (no resonators at all - loud as hell) , but everything has rusted off by now... After reading all the pages on this topic i still cant decide what exhaust system to buy. I am aiming at lowering weight with as much hp/lbs gain as possible. Sound is not so important, just not to be extremely loud. I assume stainless system would weight less compared to mild steel, and im thinking about 2.5" cat-back exhaust with one resonator and one (rear) muffler - could be good selection..? I have various options to buy since i live in Bosnia and there's no distributor of any of brands you guys have, so i got to make an international order via some webshops... I have options to buy cat-back systems from Neuspeed, Techtonics, Milltek, Magnex, Supersprint, Jetex, and various German brands like Hartmann Motorsports, Remus, Bastuck etc... So, what would you buy considering the rules : stainless, weight reducing and power gaining ? Which system could be most free-flowing? I am thinking about Techtonics stainless with Borla muffler - but i also contemplate about Supersprint systems (though they are heavy and not 100% stainless), considering they are based in Italy so in my case shipping could be much lower ... Thanks.