monzablau16v

Damage caused by hit and run December 2008

So the beloved Royal Mail and their fabulous drivers decided to give me a Christmas present whilst I was out of the country....

Totally mangled driver door and serious dents to rear quarter and scraping all the way down the side. To say I was not happy when i got back from holiday is putting it mildly

Thankfully it was at peak time in the morning and a kind soul witnessed the RM driver cause the damage and drive off. Witness took down the RM van licence plate and details (I couldnt thank him enough!)

So anyway, long story short: 2 years later I got the money out of RM for all the damages (after taking them to court....)

Rusty bonnet with lots of stone chips

gotta love those people in the world who just dont give a to$$ about other people's property... :censored:

serious laquer peel and paint defects. In the paperwork there was evidence the car had previously had a spray job... it was not that great, i could see overspray on the window rubbers.

wheels have seen better days

interior not too bad, apart from the Sony joystick on the steering column - arghgh

rear bench in fairly good condition

driver seat a little worn

mileage

more rust and paint defects

bumper scuffs

door rust and dents/dings

rear panel rust

*** CAR NOW SOLD ***

_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Long time overdue, thought id put up all the stuff that has happened and that is happening with my car, i call her Mylene :)

Vehicle Details:

1995 "M"Corrado VR6

Mystic Blue Pearl (LC5L) with heathed black leather interior

3 previous owners, im the fourth

Full VWSH upto 100,000 miles

Mileage at purchase: 130,000

Current mileage (as of June 2010): 143,000

Contents:

Condition upon purchase

Damage caused by hit and run December 2008

Respray photos

Respray photos continued...

Leather Seats refurbishment

Leather Seats refurbishment continued...

Leather Doorcards refurbishment

Leather Doorcards refurbishment continued...

Alcantara retrim

Alcantara retrim continued...

Alcantara retrim continued...

Alcantara retrim continued...

Cam change

Headlights and Loom

still to come...

Door rattles from hell

Koni coilover suspension

Wheels wheel wheels

ICE

chance i could be attempting this very soon!

The replacement 263 cams i have, already have the sprockes on them so i wont need to swap them from my current standard cams (bonus as i heard this is a pita!). So my question is what do i need to do differently in my situation when getting the chain back onto the sprockets after installing the new cams?

My understanding so far is that if you undo the sprockets off the old cams then you can leave the chain handing around them so when it comes to reattaching the sprockets to the new cams, you just need to rebolt on the sprockets. However in my case will i have enough play in the chain to get them up and over the sprockets? (sorry for the dim questions.. only ever played with cams on my old 16v which are driven differntly to VR cams)

has anyone got a list of the parts and part number of the items that need replacing when doing the cams?

So far i have:

Essential / worthwile to change:

Rocker / CAM cover gasket

B 021 103 483 D (check as it depends on chassis #)

£9.53 +VAT from TPS

Upper to Lower inlet manifold gasket

021 133 227 J

£ ? TBD

Camshaft position trigger wheel

£ ? TBD

Cam Chain Upper Cover / Chain Tensioner o-ring seal (little green seal in the top cover near the tensioner bolt)

N 900 411 02

£ ? TBD

Change dependant on condition:

Inlet manifold hex bolts (allen key head bolt M8x30). Full set is 17 bolts, you should only need 7 for the top half.

+N 014 726 3

~£1.60 +VAT each from TPS

washer for above bolts

+N 011 558 11

~£0.30 +VAT each from TPS

Cam followers / tappets See earlier note from Kev about GSF ones marked with "INA". You will need 12 in total

034 109 309 AD

£6.50 each from GSF

£4.95 each from AVS Spares/VW Spares - these are Febi ones.. not sure if these are the same quality as the INA ones???

Cam Sprocket Nut (M12x1.5x40)

N 102 038 03

£ TBD

please, someone who has done this before double check my numbers and add to the list. I will update the prices when i get them from TPS/VW...

thanks

H

not trying to make you feel worse, just think of this as a tip for the future.... Whenever i get work done by my usual garage (normally in winter when i cant be fekked to do the work on my car in the freeeezing cold!) i ALWAYS ask them to keep anything they replace so i can see for myself what has come off my car.

hope this gets sorted out for you mate, and dont be afraid to report these people to the trading standards or to pursue them through small claims court.

good luck

wouldnt recommend for two reasons mate...

if (god forbid) you have an accident and your car is scrutinised and found to contain "chopped" springs :wave: goodbye to your insurance covering any costs...

your ride quality will be pants and think the rear will be a jittery

just my pennies worth

also just found another online catalogue...

http://autopartmaster.com/ru/?action=catalog_show&cat=vw&t_id=476&added_=VOLKSWAGEN

again in other language, but you can use it to lookup part numbers and then it comes up with a diagram with clickable part number and descriptions a bit like ETKA.

HIH

Sounds stupid but don't the seats bolt in to those holes..?

nah, the seats "clip" into the litte catches you can see in the middle. I guess they are just redundant holes then? Strange as there is a thread in there... maybe it was part of the manufacturing process :confused4:

anyways, thanks folks.. i guess ill go ahead and use it for my amp gounding purpose

ta

Pink holes are for another use altogether.... :luvlove: :norty:

ohh you cheeky mare! no... not them kinda holes :norty: . Anyways, i just realised i had labelled the wrong holes :brickwall: . Indeed as dave16v said the Green holes are for the seatbelts - ta.

The holes i needed to know were the ones i have circled in Yellow now. On my car they dont have the black blanking caps as in the photo... there is a thread in there so something looks like it attaches into them...

anyone who replies back with "every hole's a goal" is gonna get a punch :D

thanks!

Hi, can anyone tell me what the purpose of the holes identified in the pic below are please? The pink highlighted holes have a bung and when i popped it off it was full of wax - so i think they are waxing points (can someone confirm please?)

As for the other holes (ringed in green) i haven't got a clue and was hoping to clean off the paint, get it back to metal and then use it to ground my amps to as I'd prefer not to use the seat belt bolts.

thanks

H

p.s sorry i shamelessly stole the photo from another post on these forums!

once the moulds done and pics are up, if i like it could he make another for me as im in that area?

sure, i am actually going to give Carl a ring today and see if i can arrange some forum discount ... ill let you know what he says.

result.. he has access to a Corrado so can make the moulded sub without needing my car or anyone elses from the forums. Thanks for the replies anyways -- ill keep everyone posted on the finished article and put up photos in my other post:

http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=92634

:wave:

Hi,

just wondering if there are any corrado owners who are in the Portsmouth area that may be willing to help a guy called Carl (shakey) make a moulded boot enclosure?

Basically he needs a corrado for a couple of days to get the mould made up but i am too far away to get down there myself. Hopeing that this can help other people looking for moulded sub enclosures. I'd pay for everything, so its just the physical presence of your corrado ill need

pm me if you can help out.

Thanks!

ok .. really stupid question here...but..

can i swap my driver seat with my passenger seat (and yes i know the handles to tilt the seat forward will be on the wrong side as well as the seatbelt recepticle)

TIA

H

I'd lay new cables mate and leave the OE looms untouched. Easier to revert back to standard if you ever need to :wink:

 

Trust me, the last thing you want is a new owner of your car constantly ringing you asking what wire goes where and why it was cut in the first place, rah rah rah!

 

So you listened to your MD player in the car, with earphones? I did that the other day with my iPhone and the missus was shouting through the sunroof at me that it's illegal. Is it? :shrug:

 

Focals speakers I find a bit bass shy tbh. Rainbows are quite nice. I'd prolly take the Bostons of your choice of 3. Not a fan of the lower end Alpine HUs. See if you can get an older, but higher spec unit from ebay, something like a 9835R is an awesome deck.

It depends on what you want from the system, sound quality is so subjective and obviously thievability is something to consider too.

 

Flashing tape doesn't really work that well if I'm honest, and it's a right f'cker to get off again. It's what I tried first, but later found one layer of proper stuff outperformed 4 layers of flashing tape. Shame Audioscape are no more as they were the boys for this stuff :(

yeah think that makes good sense... im not one for cutting and shutting either. What i was wondering is if just using the existing cable would impair sound quality or of using new cable would be better - afterall its *just* treble high freq going to the tweeters? But anyways, as you said i think ill just stick in some new cable and leave the existing one there intact in its unmolested state.

The minidisc was a headunit Kev, the previous owner actually went and had a sony MD headunit installed - right pita and it had the $hitty control stick abomination stuck on the steering column!

hmmm not sure about listening to music in your car with headphones being illegal..sure someone else with the know-how can clear that up.

In the end i decided to just utilise my Infinity Perfect 6.1 speakers (had them lying around in the garage for years gathering dust so thought i may as well just use them). Looking at getting some custom doorpod houses made up whilst trying to retain the factory look - more info to come!

I just finished modifying the factory tweeter houses to accept the infinity tweety birds, fairly happy with it apart from having to cut the factory tweeter houses (contradicting my previous statement about not wanting to butcher factory stuff :cuckoo: ). Took me about an hour to do.

Factory tweeter housing with tweeter removed

Hole saw used to remove the plastic inner

Attached some craft foam to prevent any unwanted vibrations and didnt really want plastic to plastic contact (you can get a whole pack of the foam from poundland - cheap as chips)

So my tweeter just sits in the hole and rests on the lip of the foam... perfect fit, if i do say so myself :norty:

I just added a wee dab (yeah right!) of glue to keep it more secure. Also glued the speaker wire to the tweeter body to give a bit of extra protection to the wire connections (dont want the connecters to the tweeter being damaged whilst installing the tweeters - would hate to have to remove all that glue due to a damaged tweeter!)

tomorrow i think ill try to strip the interior out the car and start laying cables. Wonder if i can get away with not having to remove the glovebox or god forbid, the dash...

Hi guys, about to start laying cable for my setup. Quick question- can i use the existing oem wiring that goes to the indash tweeters and just re-route them to my component crossover? Or is it just worthwhile laying new separate cable from the x-overs to the tweeters? Thanks!!!

it's not stupidly low, but yes as mentioned my drive does have a slight decline.

thanks for the other info regarding the window scrapers... it seems some people's do make contact, whilst other people's dont !

come on Meerkats - let's have yer thoughts!

...especially on getting the window scraper seal to butt up against the glass..... do i just attack it with a rubber mallet :brickwall:

ta

washed and then applied:

Dodo Juice Lime

G10 (with Machine Polisher)

Dodo Juice Limed again

AG SRP

AG Gold Sealant

Dodo Juice Purple Haze Pro

4 hours and one very shiney bonnet to show for it (although i am STILL NOT HAPPY... :cuckoo: )

excuse the splatter.. forgot to take a pic after i cleaned all that off!

http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/8990/p1020632h.jpg

Hi,

been washing the car today and as it happens both my door cards are off as i am doing some maintainence work on the leccy windows. Right, here is the issue/problem, after i gave the car a thorough washing, i took a look to see how the water was draining and i noticed that there is a lot of water collecting right at the end of the door. Now this could be partly due to my drive having a slight decline (so the back of my car is higher than the front). Obviusly i could park the car the other way around so the water doesnt collect like it is doing now... but its ovbiously something which i thought could be overcome easily by just adding a new drain hole close to where the water trap is?

Got some pics to help explain my point.

This shows the water collecting at the very end of the door, again due to my car's front being lower than its phat arse...

Rekon i could get away with making a tiny 3mm hole further forward - obviusly id make sure it is treated with suitable stuff to prevent rust and ill also waxoil this door once i have had a chance to clean all the gunk out of it!

This is the driver side where i have put some sound deadening and also some acoustic foam. I purposly put the foam up off the floor so it wouldnt interfere with the drain holes and also to prevent it from being left soaking in any standing water...hard to see but there is about a 10mm gap from the bottom of the foam to the bottom of the door.

So this is my new window scraper seal which i installed a week ago. It doesnt actually touch the window and i have tried to press it closer but without going all he-man on it (reluctant to do unless absolutely necessary!) I cant seem to get rid of the 1mm gap between it and the glass.... Anyone confirm if this is how it supposed to be or should it actually be in contact with the glass (the latter makes more sense to me!)

any thoughts?

cheers

got my H&R adapters :clap: yaaay ...however they are all 25mm contrary to the seller saying they were 30mm BOOO :cuckoo:

hmm... this gives me the following calcs:

FRONTS:

inner clearance would be -3mm and outer clearance would be +9mm from standard

REARS:

inner clearance would be -3mm and outer clearance would be +35mm from standard

rekon this will be okay or do i just send them back???

fun and games continue :clap:

Hi,

Can anyone running Porsche 928 wheels which have the tyre pressure sensor installed in the alloy wheel let me know if they cause any issues? Basically i just bought a set of 7x16 and 8x16 928 wheels. They all have the sensors - i've never seen or come across them before so to me they look well strange! I am also not convinced that they wouldn't leak air....

any advice would be lovely, thanks

ok settled on 195/45 Conti's...£245 delivered from mytyres (they got a 5% discount on at the moment)

fingers crossed i can live with the lower profile! cheers for everyone's help and advice... ill get photos and views once everything is together :salute:

i know this may sounds really stupid - but try and take a look to see that the interior light in the boot is not staying on when boot is closed?

I was working on my car a few weekends ago and bar from playing with the electric windows for a few minutes at a time I found that at the end of the day my battery was drained. I put it down to maybe the interior light and the bootlight being on for over 12+ hours (as i had doors and boot open).

sorry if this is waaay off the mark but it may be worthwhile just disconnecting then and checking the draw again to rule them out...

you are a legend mate! thanks for them photos and the information.

Appreciate the offer for the wheels, id have them off you however i just purchased some wheels which are being delivered tomorrow! Will get them in for a quick refurb and then on the car in the next few weeks hopefully.

As for tyres - jeez this is getting difficult now! Tyres i want are not in the sizes recommended and from the photo you showed of the 8" with the stretched 195/45 == lovely! I just need to make sure that i can live with the ride quality... as mentioned before i drive it daily and there are loads of potholes round here!

Think they would be fine for the 7" fronts, just need to make sure the ride is not too compromised with the 8" rears... damn decisions decisions!

seen the following tasty tyres in the 195/45 size:

GOODYEAR EAGLE F1 GSD3 195/45 R16 84V XL TL (£66 each from camskills)

Continental SportContact 3 195/45 R16 80V (£64.50 each from mytyres)

getting ichy mouse finger syndrome.... need new shiney tyres! :nuts: