LukeManic

Hi, I've now greased the pads and have taken it out on a test drive. For the first 10mins or so I hear nothing and all is well, but give it 10mins+ the squeak comes back. I'm guessing it is heat releated? Just to confirm, the squeak goes as soon as you apply the brakes, and it also depends on how quick the car is going - for example if I'm coming to a stop then the squeak will happen less frequently based on the cars speed. I hope this makes some kind of sense. If anyone has any ideas about how to resolve this then I'd really appricate it! Thanks!

great help mate, thanks very much :)

Hi guys, am I right in thinking the slave cylinder on a vr6 is located on the right hand side of the engine as your looking at it with the bonnet open? Im pretty sure I've spotted it but it seems to be attached to a large metal plate which isn't showing the two mounting bolts of the slave cylinder, does this make sense? Cheers!

Hi mate, I've done the job and followed your tips too, thanks for those. Not had a chance to take it for a test drive yet as the weather has been bad. Thanks for your help guys!

Great, thanks for the advice :)

hi guys, is there a good ground spot for earthing an amp in the rear of the rado? I've heard the rear seat mounting points are good - is this true? Cheers.

thanks for the prompt reply colin, I'll look for that tomorrow, cheers! :)

Hi guys, I'm going to feed a power lead from the battery to the boot tomrrow for my amp, is there a factory one I could use or will it mean I need to drill a hole? Cheers.

Hi guys, I've got a Phoenix Gold Octane R 5.0.4 amplifier (http://reviews.cnet.com/car-amplifiers/phoenix-gold-octane-r/4507-6726_7-30844528.html?tag=sub) I want to install it in my rado, it will be running 2 6x9s and a 10" sub. It has two 25a fuses on it - does this mean I need a 50a inline fuse on my power cable? As I currently have a 10 gauge power cable with a 30a inline fuse, just wondering if this will be safe to use? Thanks in advance, Luke.

Griff, that was a great help mate. Thank you very much - I'll take it for a test drive later in the week to see if I've cured it :) - thanks again.

Hi guys, hope your all having a good Christmas. I don't have much time to work on the rado as much as I'd like to, so I'm going to make the most of my time off and sort few things out - hence my Xmas day post Can any of you guys explain to me how I go about getting to the the front pads and greasing the relvant side up? Will I need to push the piston in or should that be ok as I'm not actually going to be replacing the pads? Cheers!

Cheers for the replies guys. Will look into that when the weather picks up. Thanks again.

Hi guys, I've got a very annoying squeak coming from the driver's side front brake, it is consistently there until I apply the brakes - it then disappears. It sounds like the pad is touching the disc ever so slighly when the car is in motion. Any ideas on how to resolve this? I've recently had new pads & discs fitted to the front. Cheers, Luke.

Hi guys, as subject says - steering vibrates slightly when braking, is fine when driving on motorway at speeds so am I right in thinking this could be the brake rotors? I plan to strip the brakes down on the weekend to check condition on pads/rotors, just want some opinons from the experts ;) - cheers.

Well I have now successfully changed mine :D , with the help of this forum though I wouldn't have been able to do it - I'm going to make a donation when I get home from work tonight. RS VR6 - thats excatly what mine sounded like, not very nice. Cheers all.

Kevin, your a star mate - very helpful, thank you. Thanks to all previous posters too, much appreciated.

Again, thanks for answering. Can I not just unplug the leads from the coil pack? Does this also require a special tool to do this? Thanks in advance.

Thanks for the anwers guys. As for changing it myself, I've been looking how I will get to it and can see the plastic engine cover covers the pump's connectors, am I right in thinking I need to take the engine cover off to gain access to it? Also how is the pump held? Any help on this is much appriecated.

Thanks for your input. Can people confirm to me what is true here (been doing some research): If I turn my iginition on the aux water pump can be heard, now some people are suggesting that it should also stay on for 10mins after the key has been taken out of the iginition regardless of whether it is hot or cold??? this true? Mine doesn't stay on at all when the key is out - only comes on when the iginition is turn on. Thanks in advanced.

Hi guys, Just got in from work - was stuck in heavy traffic and the VR got hot, fans came in fine and she never went over 100c, put her in the garage and just before I turned the engine off I noticed a LOUD buzzing from the engine. I turned ignition off and the buzzing stopped - turned the ignition so only the dash lights would come on and the buzzing noise came back. Its never made this loud buzzing noise before - I understand the pump should make some degree of noise. Does this need replacing? Also, as soon as I take the key out of the igintion the pump cannot be heard at all. Is this the way it should be? Thanks in advanced.

ah great stuff, thanks guys - it seems to being doing what it should, it stays between MIN and MAX when cold and rises to MAX when hot, just putting my mind at rest, thanks again.

Hi guys, I'm keeping a close eye on my coolant level daily and have discovered that it never stays at the MAX level once filled. I've done some research and some people say that certain cars will eject coolant if it's filled to much so the coolant level sits between the MIN and MAX, is this true? So basically is it normal for coolant to site between the MIN and MAX when cold and rise to MAX when hot? Cheers.

Guys, I'm after a low temp fan switch for a VR6 Corrado (1994). The connection should look like this: http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_audi/Cooling_System/Low_Temp_Fan_Switch___MK3_MK4.html I'd order from the above site but shipping alone cost £42!! Surely there is a place in the UK with sell these? Cheers.

Hello, can anyone tell me if this is ok.... I've just had the themo-stat housing changed and themo-sensors changed and the coolant temp seems to be more consistent now. It still runs up to 100c in traffic but doesnt go above that. What I want to know is if 98-99c is the right kind of temp for the stage 1 fan to kick in at? I've left the car running and that when the fans first kick in, im just unsure if this is stage 2 and its actually not kickin in stage 1 :? Cheers!

ok mate, thanks for your input :)