redsamuraidragon

I have a 92 Slc that took a dump on me recently after 173k miles. Its a distributor 12 valve vr and im looking to rebuild this motor asap with upgraded crank pistons rods cam and head. Im told reboring the cylinders over 83mm is unsafe as the wall of cylinder number 1 becomes thin. Im looking to run on Supreme pump gas. I have intentions of having my new cylinder head milled ported and polished. The big valve head that is. I have heard of putting a mark 4 mls head gasket to further lower the compression on the vr6 but im wonder about clearance issues with the high compression pistons. Ive been told 10.5:1 is high as I can go. Should I be expecting problems if I put 10.5:1 pistons in the car and then mill the head further? I dont mind adding additive to pump gas. I just want a motor that I can get 170 k out of and still produce 225 horses or better. Im not having any luck with places online to buy pistons. Anyone know of any places? Also, im taking recommendations for band names to buy, and ones to stay away from. Any websites would be a big help. THanks

Alright. My 92 VR6 just went south. Im going to rebuild it and was wanting to know how I should get the machine work done for some serious non turbo power. I just want a Naturally aspirated vr6 that has a significant amount more of power. Im boring hte cylinders out to 82.5mm and Ive got a mark 4 metal multi layer head gasket for it already. What about intake, what kind of pop up pistons can i put in this thing? what about milling the heads and porting and polishing them? Are there any combonations I should avoid? im taking it to a machine shop later today to get some pricing done on it. Im having trouble finding parts online for this thing. I know there are plenty, im just looking in all the wrong spots. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

Are the lifters a solid kit, meaning I need to buy new ones if they are tapping bad? Or can I just tighten them?

I just dropped the oil pan on my vr6 today... peices of steel started to fall out of the oil pump and dropped into the pan... my whole timing chain guide is shot.. the chain destroyed it and probably destroyed hte chain.. this is going to cost me gobs.. and I work for volkswagen... Grrr lol

Also, how much should I be expecting to pay for the block of a r32 or r36. I was thinking of building it from the bottom up, or just buying a used motor out of a wrecked car and rebuilding it... or maybe just modding the used motor as it sat... just a new top half on it... I like the idea of having more power in the lower rpms, so im leaning towards a r32 after looking into it a bit more, but the vr6 maybe considerably cheaper to produce more power from. Id just rather have a little low end torque instead of having to rev my motor up everytime I wanted to burn on someone.

Yeah, see thats the whole deal. My pockets are only so so deep... I know I could rebuild a radical vr6 or put a r32 in.. but the r36 sounds like a piece... After looking into this a little more.. im thinking a vr6 built up might be the way to go... anyone know where I can find decent rebuild parts online? High Compression pistons, performance cam.. performance head... ect..

My rado's motor just took a dump im pretty sure of it. I was looking into putting a 3.6 in to replace it. I havnt seen any confirmed reports of this, or any pictures yet. I think its possible since the r32 fits in.. also.... Is it really worth putting the r32 over the vr6 into my rado if the 3.6 idea isnt feasable... looking for a modest 400 hp to the wheels in my rado after this rebuild... I was wanting a Naturally aspirated engine... I dont even know if thats possible on the vr6...

btw.... I dont know of where the oil pressure gauge is on my corrado as I am new to them... Its not on the dash.. and I didnt see it when I cycled the options on the dash... I can buy one.. but.. it would be nice if I am simply over looking it... thx

Hey all, My 92 VR6 started acting up today. I was driving along and my water temp was at about 185F which Isnt anything special.. but my oil light came on, so I checked the temp and pulled over... The oil temp was 255F which seems a bit high... The top half of the motor started tapping and sounding like a diesel.. I sense a rebuild coming on here... but wanted to get some input on what could be causing the problem At first the oil light came on over 3200 rpms... so I dropped down.. and it went off.. Pulled over, checked it... the dip stick looked like it had about 2 quarts extra in it... but I watched them pump exactly 5 quarts into it the other day... and I checked the oil that night, and the next morning and it was at normal level... No oil in the water, or water in the oil.. and the car isnt smoking... just feels like it lost half its power almost instantly ... and started tapping like a mofo... oil isnt dirty.. only a week old... doesnt smell burnt... and.. since the car has already lost some power... im thinking even if I replace whatever is wrong on it.. a rebuild is essential ill post another topic about the rebuild in another forum since this is not the place... thanks..