TonyRamone

Well that explains why full closure's never worked! :roll: So what are my options? When you say dealers do you mean VW main dealers - in which case there may be a chance that replacements could still be available? Otherwise, what sort of cost would I be looking at to get a proper system fitted? The lifters seem OK by the way - a bit slow and tired but then they are probably about 12 years old.

Sounds good to me - I paid the stealer 15 + VAT for the VW one (and thought that was cheap for a VW part)!

That'd be great! Should I PM you with my phone number or something?

Here's what mine look like by the way - not quite the same (all the solder terminals are vertical) but I'm guessing as there are 6 pins the switch works in the same way, so at least it should actually work!

I will - cheers funky

Ah well at least I know they're out there somewhere :)

More or less! So what is it funky?

How does that differ from 357 959 855 A?

Hi, Does anybody know the part number for an early (90/91) electric window switch (driver's side)? I got one from VW (p/n 357 959 855 A) that looks almost identical to mine from the front (diagonal ridges etc.) but it's only got 5 pins - mine have 6 - and it's deeper and ever so slightly shorter in height! I asked my local independent and they reckon they're aftermarket and unavailable (which kind of makes sense cos there are blanking plates in the door card where the winders used to be) but they look so similar I can't believe it (don't want to either :( ). Must admit they don't have a VW logo on them though - or a part number. I've dismantled the dead one and the switch mechanism's different too. When the switch is in the middle position both switch contacts (blue/black wires) are shorted to one of the brown wires (the other brown one connects to the LED) and when you hit up or down the appropriate contact shorts to the red wire, leaving the other switch contact shorted to the brown. Then there's a red/blue wire that connect to the resistor on the other side of the LED. The VW switch seems to be much simpler - when the switch is off no contacts are shorted to anything, hence the missing pin! Any info would be much appreciated - don't know what else to do. :cry: Cheers