harrisvr6

I bought the steel hammer upgrade bit (hoping to fix it). When I took the handle off I noticed both bits had snapped, its just I need the butterfly bit I need really (the handle is actually ok...

Hi All, Thanks for the info. It has been a bit of a nightmare tbh. The car failed its mot on a light (aimed up), rear shocks and springs, and the door not opening from the outside. (its been like that for a few months, its a bit of an inconvenience but less so than not having use of it at all like now). All the rest has been fixed but the door. The rear suspension was surprisingly easy - I was bricking attempting it & for the 1st drive afterwards, but was straight forward... With the handle. When you pull the handle there is a hammer piece (with the round white plastic end bit, which had snapped apparently that is the common fault, I got the upgraded stainless steel hammerer looking piece, but when I got the lock/handle out, the butterfly bit that goes behind the lock barrel just fell into about 20 pieces in my hands hahaha. VW Rule, many thanks for the link. :-)

Hi there, Does anyone have a drivers side Door handle with the butterfly washer (- that sits inside the door behind the lock)???

Hi, I need to replace the top (of the 2x clips) which attach the side of the front bumper to the car. I found this on VW heritage, but the description says not for the front bumper on the corrado, and yet the section of the page says it does fit the front bumper? Can anyone confirm? https://www.vwheritage.com/191807193-bumper-securing-clip-vw-spare Many thanks in advance.

Cheers man. I was thinking of getting trimwizard to fit one as he seems to have a lot of good reviews on here. Just out of curiosity, what sort of ball park am I looking at for a new alarm? I dont really need anything fancy, a fob to lock the doors & make windows go up, and a new immobilizer inside to drive away. It probably is already a bit of a state to sort out as the breakdown bloke bypassed the alarm to get me home when I lost the fob. I think he ran a wire from the ignition to the starter motor.

Done it today, to be honest it wasn't half as bad as I was expecting, I was bricking it! I want to thank you all for the help, it truly helped. There was a few issues but I expected this. There is a plastic air director on the drives side that directs air into the rad, well it has this rubber trim bit which sits against the grill I think. It disintergrated when I took that bit off, I hope its not essential. The other side didn't have it at all, but I think it might be like that. The oil cooler was ok to do. I would say shimmy the hose clips up the hose while it is still attached to the engine though. I was quite carefull as I didn't want to damage the crackpipe and thermostat. The square profiled o ring looked compressed and had a sort if lip onit where it had compressed over time, I guess this was where it was leaking from. The radiator looked horrendous, I'm glad its changed, there wasnt hardly any fins remaining. And the new one has twice as many. The fans housing will probably need replacing soon as its starting to rust, there was a few bolts missing here attaching it to the radiator also . All went back ok though. When I put the main front back on one of the bolts was threaded, I was carefull to lay them out so the right one went in the right hole. Can I swap this with a nut and bolt? I think it was one of two on the side under the lights. Unavoidable problem now though, because I had removed the battery for space, and I have lost my alarm fob, I cant unset the alarm because it defaulted to on when I reconnected the battery, haha. I had lost the fob and had the alarm set to off and was using the key for the doors and the immobiliser to drive it. I do need to get that fixed though so i will probably get someone else to look at the end of the month. I had been postponing this... Also I think I mixed a few of the wires up so will need to have a refiddle at that when I have sorted the alarm out.

I've taken the lower lip and indicators etc off. The fogs are corroded in so I was hoping to unclip those as the bumper pulls out, a little further up the cable. I've not touched the 4 main screws underneath holding the bumper on yet, although the bolts look pretty good. I don't want to commit that far unless I know for sure I'm going to be able to do the next step and get the rad changed. I don't have a drive, its just at the side if the road so I cant really leave it jacked up and in bits if I cant finish it off. Do you think I can get the front body panel off with the rear headlight screw still in place?

See image attached.

Are these bolts accessed from the top of that line of body (sort of where the headlights sit) or the bottom (where the bumper sits)? The page before looks like it could be below, this looks like above. If below I might be ok. Basically I cant get the headlights out due to the bolts you access through the top of the front body panel. These are rusted out and stripped. If these are attached to that front part of the body I'm assuming I should wangle out with the body section.

If the fogs have another connection that'll be ideal, is that in the engine bay? The screws have had it, also 2x look impossible to get at wit anything but screwdriver. I got the bottom of the spoiler off ready. the headlights I'm gonna try giving a good soaking as there is a bit of a head there, and don't want to hack at at unless i really have to, probably have to get new screws. I was hoping I could get all that out intact, oh well. With regards to the side of the bumper, does this just pull out. Was trying to undo the sides (only) ready, but I didn't wanna break anything. I don't wanna undo the 4x large bolts until i can actually take it all off.

The rad came from FastRads and was about £108 delivered, as advised I called up first to check it was a hella one and it was delivered the next day.

I went to start this yesterday. I got the indicators off nice and easy haha, couldnt figure out if the foglights carefully pry out like the indicators. Got a light and there and there seems to be 2 screws holding these in to the housing/bumper (down these 2 tube bits), these are rusted to hell. They dont even have a bit to put the screwdriver into, its just a rusted metal blob. Can I get the bumper and radiator off still, by unclipping these as I pull the bumper off (leaving this in place on the bumper). I dont know what to do if these have to come off, If I can get them off they will either be broken or not go back on, probably both... ****. What about the headlights, these I've not even got to there yet and these look a bit corroded up too, they have a screw bit but they are gonna be a bitch I can tell - can these just be unclipped and just taken off in place with the grill , headlights surround (dunno what its called, main front end). From the ones I can see, the other screw which looks like its gonna be a bitch is the screw that holds the top elbow onto the rad, but only the front facing one, the back looks pretty new. An another note, the good news the hella rad looks good, actually better than the one on there. The fins are much closer together and there is about twice as many possibly even 3 times as many, and seeing as the old one basically has NONE at all, it's gotta work a treat once I can get the bloody thing in there..

I've just been paid so hopefully order tomorrow, gonna have to find a hella one. Got a quote for the heater matrix from tps and that was £220, is it worth risking getting an aftermarket one? I'm not looking to change this just yet but if it could be discontinued soon I may get it now.

Thanks for confirming, at least that's a relief, I had a feeling the one with the tabs was for the cooler but the square one I thought might have been to sit against the thermostat. I went to order the radiator today at TPS and they said it was discontinued :-( Can you advise me on what one to get, there is this one at VW Heritage (which looks like the one I have already I think, I'm not sure if its a proper VW one though, it only says good quality haha) for £185. https://www.vwheritage.com/535121251e-radiator-vr6-vw-spare Or at Allparts they have one for £105+vat. Are there any makes which are best to avoid and I'll inquire more about this option. I've also seen an all alu one which has the top elbow built in on ebay like this (but I'm worried this might not be a direct fit & If I'll have to 'make the fans fit' it's all over for this one. But I like that its all metal) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aluminum-Alloy-Radiator-for-VW-Golf-2-Corrado-VR6-Turbo/272097660259?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3De35392c6e35b465491b01f82d9d4809f%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D30%26sd%3D262229829785&_trksid=p2385738.c100677.m4598 What do you think. 1xshaunx1 - Where did you get your VW/Hella one from?

Thanks for the info. I'm gonna give it a shot this weekend, hopefully it all goes to plan. Am I right in assuming you need to buy the top elbow to get the Oring, or can you get separate? I'm going to do the oil coooler aswell, does anyone know if these O rings are for the thermostat/housing or the oil cooler? The one on the right is slightly rectangular approx4-5mm thick and the one on the left is approx 3-4mm thick an circular. I bought these some time ago and cant remember if they were for the oil cooler or the thermostat/housing?

Hi my radiator is leaking and needs replacing. I have seen an all-metal ones online and was wondering if anyone has this fitted and if they would reccommend this, or get the VW one which looks to be plastic and metal? My main concern is if it directly fits without too much faffing about compared to the VW one. When it comes to fitting is there a particular procedure to follow, will I need any specific tools etc and is there anything to be weary of / look for specifically while its all out? Thanks

After ages, cleaning things multiple times for a barely noticeable improvement, I think I found the problem with this. Fuel. I swapped to super unleaded strictly. After a couple of full tanks it has gone, completely, its been a few months now and back to how Ive known it to be. The weird thing is I have been using regular unleaded for years without a problem.

My Divers side window has been out of action for some time. It just stopped working one day, then after ages, I pressed it one day and it worked. Then died again. Ages pass and then when I had some previous work done they fixed it, but it didnt last long either, when I asked them about it they said they moved the motor about a bit (apparently to find a sweet spot). I have taken the door card off and the mounting (3 screws) that holds the motor to the inside of the door has been changed at some point and was actually zip tied in place (the screws having been drilled off) So I wont be able to screw it back into place. I tried it in all manner of positions to get it to wind down and it won't move, I can feel the motor itself clicking, but it seems to be jammed. After about an hour of trying the thinner end of the moter that would be nearest the front is getting a warm. I dont think this is a major issue as it used to work fine. Could those 2 cable's have siezed? The 2 arms seem that bring the window down seem to be sat in the runners correctly etc.

Hi all, many thanks for all the pointers guys, I did it this eve and it was a success! In the end I had to drill out both sides - the bolt that holds the disc in place is stuck in both holes, but its all gone back together ok AND seems to work ok too. Feck knows how I'll get it back out though... The trickiest parts were screwing the wheel back on with it all flapping about a bit, and the 2x 17mm hex bolts holding the brakes on (I only had a breaking bar and could move it about 10cm of a rotation at a time, but, alas, it's done. I cant thank you all enough. To me this was very daunting! But when you carefully do it stage by stage it wasn't too bad. This forum is soo helpfull, I cant stress how much this has helped me! Corrado owners are the bomb! Thanks all!

Another possible issue, the 2x pins that slide the carrier and caliper together, I dont know what its called but there is an approx 3 mm rip on one of those ribber cover pieces. I cleaned and greased them both but the one with the rip feels a bit different. Is this a problem or can I jsut angle the rip to where it will be semi shielded by a tiny jutting out bit on the brake?

Thanks for the pointers gutys, its much appreciated. I made a start tonight, I got to the last bolt holding the disc on and we,... The bolt was already pretty mashed, I put the drill on it and even gently it completley trashed it, I tried pushing even harder in the vain it might grip and it just started drilling it out. What should I do, Im considering putting back together until I have some sort of tool to get that out, or drilling the head off the screw with the elec drill? Also, isnt the pads meant to have a small clip thing that sit near the top and bottom of the pad between the brake itself. The rears had these.

I am in dire need to replace the front brakes on my standard VR6, I have a few questions. It looks like the pads are ok and its just the discs, but am planning on changing both. I have done the rears before, and I was wondering how doing the fronts compare to the rears, do I need to get new bearings too etc? Is there a guide on how this should be done exactly anywhere? Also, is it wise to replace anything else or be aware of anything while I'm at it (Im assuming the bolts that hold the brake carriers on will need replacing?) but do i also need the wind back tool like the backs? Sorry I know this seems a bit vague but I dont want to take things off, break something and be relegated to a pushbike for the foreseeable future (doing the rears was pretty much my mechanical limit of difficulty). If it is a trickier job, how much would think it would cost to have someone do it for me (approx ballpark figure). Thanks all.

This looks perfect. Swiftkid, you are a star! Many thanks.

Does anyone know where to source the bolts that hold the rear brakes on (the hex ones that are notorious for stripping), I belive there is 3x? TPS is saying it's a discontinued item and, I am in dire need of some new ones so I can finally put an end to my rear brake bearing issue... Does anyone know if they are available at all at all parts or G&S? In the manual it says they are high tensile steel, if I cant find them would another bolt of the same thread suffice (maybe normal steel at a push)?

Many thanks for the advise, I swapped the pads over today and it seems to have fixed the issue. I'm soo happy right now. You know when you have a good drive in the rado and it feels great, I felt that today luckily (other problems aside). I was carefull to grease the contact points with copper before and did the pins with silicone, they were all manky and needed some love. Seems to have worked though. There is some movement on the wheels maybe 1mm-1.5mm but it spine smoothly and easily. I know that they are probably too tight though. I had packed that cavity with grease. Do you think I should change them now? I may just buy the bearings as I have ordered them and have them for if and when these go bad.