harrisvr6

Thanks for the pointers guys. I have already ordered more VW bearings, i wasn't sure exactly on the bolts so will order those tomorrow. I will pick new pads up too, and put these on first, just to be sure... I think I'm going to try this myself to be honest. As I have watched the walk through many times and I think I can do this (this is probably all a piece of **** to you guys, but its still a little daunting to me). Can someone elaborate finger tight, the VW book says, "thrust washer must be movable using finger pressure, without prying" Does this mean the washer should be fairly hard to move by hand BUT it must be moveable (as long as I dont use the race as leverage). Silly question is this using one hand to move it. I'm worried about not tightening it enough or too much. Can someone confirm that the bolts I need to/should ideally replace on the brakes are the ones in the picture (2x 60nm & 1x 35nm) see picture?

Hi all, I recently had my rear pads, discs and bearings changed. Since then I have been getting this weird rattle, light creaking / tapping noise, it sound slike a light/hollow bit of metal, not very serious sounding but I still want to fix it. And I was wondering if anyone can help identify it. I am a complete noob at identifying problems you see. Since I noticed it (I have taken the wheel off and the grease cap and found that the thrust washer is very tight (tighter than the manual says, or what I perceived this tightness should be), so I am suspecting this has been tightened up too much and it has crushed the bearings or something, but I maybe well off. I have take the grease cover off the bearings and packed more in there just incase they were not greased enough. It hasn't changed it. I have spoken to Sean and he said that when he had the (overly tight bearing issue) it was very fast acting (200meters) and mine has done over 200 miles since. I have attached a few videos of the problem, but its tricky to hear clearly. The noise seems to go when braking, and when handbraking only. And seems to go away after i go above 35-40mph (or it could be the engine noise drowning it out). I was looking again today for anything scored, loose broken etc since it has fgottena bit worse and thought that there could possibly be a visual sign and I noticed that the clip on top of the inner brake pad looked as if it wasn't connected right, I tried to force it back in and it bloody snapped off the pad, see pics. If you imagine my fingers are the calipers and the 2 prongs were not sitting under the caliper, one was and the other was in the gap fee to move, so there wasnt any pressure on the pad itself. The other brake was both under the caliper. By not having this on the pad at all, does it make it dodgy - dangerous, should I buy another brand new set of pads (they are brand new). I drove it breifly after this came off and there is no difference. Can someone tell me the purpose of this, is it to stop the pad from moving about too much? I have noticed one of the exhaust supports has snapped off, but the rubber clips and the bar itself is holding the exhaust tubing up. It doesn't seem to rattle as constantly as I'd have thought if it was this, but I deffo want to get this welded back on. Many thanks in advance all.

New drop links and cv joint boot fitted and this now seems to be fixed. I plan on getting some new front tyres and the alignment sorted this saturday.

Got home after creeping along at snails pace. Checked the inside of the rim to see if the jubilee held and there was grease on the inside of the wheel. Jacked it all up and got the wheel off and the screw bit on the jubilee clip must have fouled, comne off and split the ribbed joint cover, so its ****ed, again! Should have got the 4 busses to work instead of drove!!! So now I need either the whole new joint or just the rubber cover, depending on how that comes. At least the drop links themselves will be with me tomorrow. I noticed that the end of the ARB arm looked a bit rusted and peeling paint etc, will this be ok or would I need to do the whole ARB (rod / bar aswell)?!

Cheers man and thanks for the advice. VW ones are obsolete,so had to get copy drop links from al parts. Should be here tomorrow so can have a go tomorrow night. In the meantime do you think ajubillee clip over both rod ends sort of holding together will help until then?

Got some axel stands for £13 from halfords, they have a sale on jacks and that at the mo so if anyone is after some now is a good time. I filled the joints sleeve with as much grease as I could get in but I bet its not completely full(I had to sacrifice my toothpaste just for the tube to get it all in there and even then was very fiddily and awkward to get inside) and jubileed it tight, it just clears by a few MM as it spins, hopefully it will suffice until I can get the other parts and fix it properly.

Could I do this with just the standard vw jack, I have been trying to find a video instructions but cant see a VR6 one, all the ones I have watched it appears the car is completley jacked up? Might be better to just give it to another garage...

Ok cool, halfords has the grease so I can hopefully get that and top up until I get the other parts, and hopefully put all this behind me. Do you need any special tools etc to change the drop link, and is there a proceedure?

Many thanks, thats sort of a relief i suppose. The other side looks pretty cracked on the rubber, so ill just change it. I am a bit concerned about a couple of things. Firstly, and this might sound ridiculous, but is it drivable if I am super carefull, I need to be able to get it to work on monday. I can maybe even get a large jubille clip tomorrow to last better than a zip tie - until I can get the VW counterpart (if have to order from tps)... How much grease is meant to be in there, or just jam packed full of? Is there a special way to put it back on, because where I tried to slip it back on, it was a bit fiddly and I had to use a screwdriver get over the widest part and the grips to pull it over and on, like a glove. I can forsee that after filling it up, this screwdriver part just splurging it back out? Im in NW london.

sorry wrong pics.

Yes it is 100% that, it is not connected, it looks like the mini rod that runs vertically has snapped at the bottom connection. You can move it about freely on its (above) joint. See the pics of the intact (passenger side) which itself has seen better days but at least its connected. Is the CV grease jet black? Its seems a bit thicker then general purpose grease, but don't know if it the type of grease and is new, or is black because of age and use etc. Do you have any idea how much the ARB drop link (Im assuming the top connection, the rod in the middle and the bottom connection), the huge jubilee clip for the ribbed rubber housing and a tub of CV grease. Plus labour, is going to cost? What would you pay / say to this guy?

Hi All, Thanks for your help. Here is an update. I had already bought the rear discs (£70) pads (about £35) and bearings £60-70 and had ordered new carrier bolts (prior to having the lock nuts taken off), the carrier bolts were not in stock and put on backorder so I had been carefully driving it until these parts arrived, it was then when the sound first appeared. The noise was making me soo paranoid I asked my colleagues dad who is a mechanic (apparantly), to have a look. 2 days later he says its been fixed and I go to pick it up. He wants £230 for what he has done. I didnt have the money on me as went straight from work and didnt have my card, so I said I'd give it to my colleague to pass on, on Monday. So I get in and go to drive home so I am thinking I want to test it on the way home, but it was rush hour so I wait till I get home and there is a quiet mini roundabout you can go round quickly, haha both ways to test it, its only still bloody doing it isn't it.... So my colleagues dad says the passenger side rear caliper had siezed which I have found to be fairly common so he replaced that (passenger side only?)and stuck the other bits on (which I was planning to do myself to save money, I am **** at mechanics but after watchign a video about 5 times fully I felt confident and was just waiting on all the new parts.) So in short he has put the new parts on I was going to for free charged me 230 and i still have the same problem. So then, I wantyed to have another look I had taken both passenger side wheels off before I gave it to him and althought I dont have a clue what I am doing technically, I was looking for signs or rubbing etc around the brakes carriers etc. as the clunking had turned into a gringing and I assumed there would be scoring of some sorts maybe visable. I couldnt see anything that I thought was out of place except for the rubber starting to crack on one of the joints and a split in the cover of the shock absorber's inner rod, (whatever its called)(?)(pics a few posts up) the earleir felt tight and I couldn't feel any play though so thouhgt Id have a few more miles yet. So this bugging me, I went out this mornign and took the drivers side and passenger side front off as I'm now assuming the back bearings would be fine. Passenger side(where It originally thought it was coming from looked the same as the pics above). As I had that corner up I noticed a load of grease on the inside of the drivers wheel. I take that one off and this is what I find? It doesnt take a genious to realise this isnt right. Firstly in pics below where the screwdriver is pointing should the top rod be attached to where its pointing below (correct). As I fully suspect this is my problem now!? Also that ribbed rubber cover that looks like its connected to the drive shaft, if the large jubilee clip (nearest the caliper was not there, would grease come naturally out as seen ?) Could that rod, having snapped off, have broken the jubilee clip and caused the grease to come out? making a ****ing right old mess? Or does that look like someone has greased the **** out of it to hopefully quieten the noise and hopefully let it pass for a few days. What are your thoughts, could this have happened due to being an old car or does it look a bit dodgy to you? Either way I am sure that is the fault but if anyone could confirm that would be piece of mind. Im at a loose end, since I specifically told him it was the front, and I with **** all experience have seemed to have found the problem.

Here is the pictures of the top parts of the suspension mounts in the bonnet (excuse the grubby engine bay :-/ ) When the guy took the locking wheel nuts off could this have damaged the set up somehow? Its weird as I have never had a problem with this until a few days after getting the wheel nuts cut off. They only took 3 off this time but when I got the first one done ages ago, I remember him hammering it onto the wheel nut and thinking "take it easy mate".

I jacked it up and took the wheel off today. Most parts looked pretty rusty and have had better days for sure, I couldn't really feel anything as being loose though. The caliper picture, felt like it had a few MM movement (creaky) when I pulled towards the camera (but not sure if there is meant to be a bit here to allow the brakes to close...? The rubber bits (in what I think is the CV joint) looked a bit old and perished but it didnt feel loose. There was a bit of movement in the wheel when you pulled / pushed the top and bottom. There was a little movement too at the front and bank (east and west if looking at wheel face on) which I put down to the steering moving a bit. When I wobbled the wheel a little (top and bottom)I noticed the top part of the suspension (in the bonnet) was moving about a bit, is it meant to do this? I know there is the other post about identifying this but I dont know what I am looking for to be honest.

Hi Dox, Thanks man, I just ordered both, brand new is piece of mind, and I dont want troubles later on. I really dreading that I strip them getting them off, and have to buy the tool. Do you reckon a few pre soaks with WD40 a day or two before will make them come off easier. I am actually dreading stripping them and having to fork out for the remover tool too. they look like they've never come off.

Hi All, My baby started making a wierd noise when turning fairly sharply right, it doesn't do it going forwards, or left but going right it seems like the whole wheel or gearbox is about to fall off. As noises go its pretty bad, its fine if going very slowly right but as soon as too much load/speed or a sharp turn on that side and its making a repetitive noise. Its the passenger side front wheel sort of area I have attached a link to a quick video of it, its not very long but even pushing it that much feels a bit dodgy... I had to go round a mini roundabout to get the vid, I went a tad too fast and it also made a grinding noise for a split second, although this is an even newer sound (I do not usually go round corners that aggressively tbh). Its like a repetative, heavy, metal object banging/clunking. Its hard to explian, like something is about to give way, but it sounds like its something serious, something heavy, that I'm probably going to need. It reminds me of in The Titanic when its splitting as its going down (loud metal creaking) I have just had my locking wheel nuts stripped off as I had lost the bloody locking socket. Could it be related to that, maybe damaged something in in the process of getting them off? I have had a little look behind the wheel nothing seemed obviously out of place. I have checked the wheel nuts and they are all tight, even the new ones. Please help?

What number in the schematic is the carrier bolts 4 or 3?

Hi All, Sorry to hijack your post. I need to replace my rear discs and pads, stupidly for some reason I thought it would be the same procedure as the fronts, I was wrong (lucky I had a little research first or I'd be proper buggered past a point of no return right now). Anyways, I ordered the new bearings today as I had only bought the discs and pads upto now. The video guide I watched, the mechanic said that the 2 carrier bolts, which are a 'bastad' to get off should really be replaced too. In the top picture (which is what they had/showed me at TPS) is it number 4? The video guide I watched the guy said there was 2 of these, does this mean the other one is number 3. Are these the 2 bolts I should probably replace rather than re-use, sorry if this is a silly question, but I want to get it right. Apparently you cant buy standard genuine VW discs or carriers anymore. Which is a bit weird I thought If I do not have the wind back tool, will it damage the piston using a G clamp? (assuming I open the bleeder and or tank lid)

Hi, I am after some interior parts, The 2 part housing that goes around the ignition and steering column just behind the steering wheel. The outer housing/finhish that goes around the centre consol, around where the ashtray, lighter, heater controls and stereo are (I think it goes upto the top middle air vents for the heater, mine is cracked next to the stereo) The hand brake cover, if its still attached to the handle? Mass Airflow sensor? For a 93-L plate VR6 Please let me know, thanks.

Awesome, I got it closed, but I snapped a part of the aluminum mechanism getting it shut. Thanks though man!

Hi All, My sunroofs slide function has been out of action for a while now. Suddenly when opening the tilt today, I think I accidently push the button horizontal (slide way) and it mad a 'broken' click. Now I'm home the bloody thing wont close. upon inspection the slider for the tilt mechanism is only sliding on one side? Does anyone have any idea how I can get the other side to close, I dont care if it never opens again, but I need it to close incase it rains... I tried pulling the panel off the sunroof controls and manually closing ti with the allen key but it is only moving the one working side. Please help!

Thanks for te help, both of you. This issue is soo frustrating. The ECU reset sounds like something I deffo need to try before forking out for new parts. Jim thats really interesting, kind of weird, but interesting. Do you have a link or part number for the one you went for? I was thinking about getting a new one but its a lot of money for something I do not know 100% that it'll fix the issue. Since it comes and goes, today it was fine. It was dry here though. Could it be affected by the wet?

My Corrado has been suffering from this weird idol problem for some time now and I really want to get it sorted. I have seen a few posts about this so maybe it is a common issue, The only time this is a problem seems to be when I am slowing down and push the clutch at the actual "stopped" point. As the RPM needle falls it doesn't stop at the usual idol spot, almost stalls (oil lights briefly flash) and then bounces up to the usual spot. On occasion it'll stall, and in turn I'll **** myself. The problem comes and goes, sometimes it's completely fine and there is nothing wrong, sometimes it will drop slightly but has no real effect ofr fear of stall, others it is nearly every time. It seems to be worse when it is at running temp. When it's cold it tends to be ok. Also when at temp. It seems to nearly always happen if I have been in the same gear for a while ie crawling along in gridlock at about 20RPM. I have noticed that each time it does it, it'll find a slightly different idol spot, usually a little lower than the norm (just below the 1st thin marker) but sometimes very low (2nd thick marker) and almost shaking. The other thing I have noticed when it does nearly stall it takes a good full second to bounce up. Say I anticipate this and as its still falling pump the gas to keep it at say 10+ RPM and keep pumping, no matter how long I am pumping it will always drop after I stop and nearly stall or stall. Its like the nearly stall speed jolts something and makes it run a little higher. That's the best I can describe it, the weirdest thing is sometimes it's just completely fine. I have cleaned the ISV out with cleaner a few times, and on both occasions it helped a little, I think, but didn't completely fix the issue and it has gotten worse again. How do I test if the ISV is faulty exactly? If I unplugged the sender should the engine behave any differently, indicating this? Could it be that wire? How would I test that? Fuel pump maybe? A guy in the pub mentioned that it could be a vacumme problem, is this applicable for the VR6 as I also believe that I have a problem with thecentral locking pump in the boot (the idol thing has been going on much longer than the boot noise)

Ahh really, that might well be the culpret then thanks. I will see if I can pin point its location a little better. Thanks man.

My Corrado has started making a weird noise when I unlock it. Its not there when I lock it back up. It is a little wierd as it just suddenly started doing it one day. It lasts 15-30 seconds and comes from the rear of the car, it just sounds like a sort of buzzing, small motorish 'running' noise a bit like when you put the key in and you can hear the small motor (Im assuming the water pump) kick in even before the ignition key is turned. Its sort of just like that but very protrusive and noticeable. It doesn't come back at all and I will only hear it again the next time I unlock it. I am not too sure if it is coming from the boot lock / spoiler mechanism area of the boot - as it sounds like it may be, or if it's maybe coming from the fuel pump. I haven't noticed any other faults which it maybe causing or anything like that, so its not on my must dos as of yet. This said I am a little worried it might break down on me which I really do not want to happen. I have tried to isolate where it is coming from, somehow, by full to the brim to nigh on empty fuel (I thought the fuel pump might be resonating in the empty tank) which didn't make any difference. If it would be the boot lock (maybe dry and rough sounding) surely it would make the same noise locking wouldn't it? The spoiler seems to work as intended... Has anyone else had this problem and what was the cause??? I have a '93 VR6