Son_of_Thor

Already checked the leads, but I'll have a look at the plugs tonight and have a look at the wiring in case there's owt obvious Cheers guys!

Standard 10w40 semi-synthetic - same stuff she always has and I've never had any issues before. Some-one has mentioned to me that it could be be exhaust related?

Hi, Cheers for the reply - I've checked that and the oil level is fine.... Si

Hi folks, Dropped the oil/filter at the wknd and also the coolant and then replaced like for like. Since then, there's been a lot of vibration below 3k and hardly any power at all - she isn't revving very freely either... Anyone any ideas? Cheers Si

Yep, mine does it too!!

Cheers. Can anyone who's removed the allen key bit tell me if this looks right?

So if I were to purchase something along these lines: https://www.pap-parts.com/prodinfo.asp?number=021%20115%20433%20A My allen key drain plug should fit?

So if the filter housing is standard should this mean the standard replacement from VW should fit (even though it has a drain plug through the middle)? Do you use the standard oil filter with yours (i.e. with the drain through the middle)?

Hi, The oil filter housing on my VR6 is cracked where the molded nut meets the main part of the housing. The housing itself appears to be non-standard as it doesn't have a drain plug through the middle of it (which I understand to be standard). The car is a '92 VR6 with an ABV engine - can anyone help?! The current filter housing looks like this: Cheers Si

Slave cylinder went on my VR6 a few months back - main symptom was that it dumped the entire reservoir of fluid all over the road when it went! It'd been gradually been leaking out and needing topping up for a while before it eventually went - Turned out that it was the seal that was shafted. Sounds like the same symptom though, pedal clunked straight against the bulkhead when you pressed it.....

I wouldn't if I were you!!

That means that the sidewall of the tyre can take a load of up to 500KG (84) and that the tyres are rated up to 167MPH (W)! Mine are 86V (530KG/149MPH). I think the C standard is 'V' rated so u might be able to save urself a few quid in tyres with the lower rating :) The ratings are fairly easy to look up from Google.... Thanks for all your help Si

Thanks for the advice, I was thinking about trying Toyo's anyway - Don't suppose you have any idea if tyre pressure should be different with different suspension? What tyre load rating should I be looking for (current tyres are 86 which seems a little low)?

They do seem to be wearing fairly evenly so I don't think there's a balancing/tracking issue - The wheels are slightly cambered in , but I don't know if that'll make any difference... Defo think I'll try something different this time around!

I've only done about 4k which is why I'm concerned about the rate of wear! Most of the time I don't drive the car that hard, but tend to have a bit of fun at some point in every journey! :wink:

Hi, I've had a read through the tyre discussion thread and noticed a few mentions of high wear rates on the front tyres of a VR6. I've only had a VR for 6 months and covered approximately 4k on new Hankook's and she's ready for a new pair of fronts - Can anyone tell me if that level of wear is normal?! She's running on standard 15" Speedlines with FK coil-overs (not sure which models). Cheers Son of Thor

OK - Had a good look into this and it looks like VW/Bosch OEM is the only way to go at around £75-80

Where's the best place to buy a replacment Lambda sensor and how much should I expect to pay? I've heard that the GSF ones can be prone to early failure... Is the Lambda in a 'Rado VR a 4 pin Zirconia type like this? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-Universal-Volkswagen-4-Wire-oxygen-lambda-02-sensor_W0QQitemZ260213044582QQihZ016QQcategoryZ9889QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Si

Yep, u defo win!! Where's the best place to get a new Lambda - I've heard GSF ones can be a bit iffy? And how much should I expect to pay for one? Also gonna replace the blue temp sender as well - Seems to be reading about 15 degrees lower than the new yellow sender at warm idle....

Right, had VAG-COM on the car and the rev reading from the ECU suggest that the engine revs are normal and it's the rev counter clock that's wrong as predicted.... Revving the engine on the drive when warm gives a LAMBDA reading of between 1.000 and 1.203 - Is this a normal reading and what else should I be looking at?! I've already replaced the yellow temp. sender and drained/replaced the coolant....

Thanks for the help - I have VAG-COM and an OBD2 cable, just waiting for the OBD1 adaptor to arrive... Si

Anyone??? Filled the car up last night and it's averaging 12MPG!!!

Recently bought a VR and there seems to be something strange with the gearing: 30MPH in 5th is 1800RPM, 70MPH in 5th is 4400RPM - As you can imagine, the car is going through a fair amount of fuel! I adore the car, but I need to sort the fuel economy ASAP if it's gonna stay! I've established that the rev. counter is from a valver and so the readings aren't 100% accurate, although they don't seem too far out. Fuel economy suggests that the car is revving higher than it should in a given gear at a given speed Can anyone help? It's been mentioned that the final drive may have been altered or the diff. changed and that might be why the car revs so high? Cheers Si

The speedometer/fuel gauge and everything else seem to work OK - The other thing that isn't right is the temp gauge but I'm hoping a new sender will sort that. Might be just as easy to replace the whole set of clocks tho and have done with it... Hohum

Looks like ur right - just done an Ebay special and all of the VR6 clocks on there red-line at 6.5k rpm... I'll add a new rev counter to my list then!! Thanks Si