t4slc

yup its still a corrado as well, so i wonder what the panel covering the wiper motor etc.. between windshield and rear of the engine. Looks like an MKIV

very well then, upon arrival to that stage i will give you a shout. for right now its gonna sit and for my arrival

nice, that link will be very useful thanks, as well i have read up last night on GT Tech 101-103 to get some ideas. Like you stated up above quick spools would be much nicer for what i want. as well correct on gt30 turbine. i will just have to do some calculations and figure out the trim and etc~! I have just screened through the link you posted, are you using a blank eprom? or the actually vr6 one to modify? Plus all the .XDF and .bin files you pull from the ecu's eprom? you get oem readings then fitted with turbo get second set to populate your data table? even when i read last night on garrett website afr does not make much sense.

well, i can not exactly get 9:1 but i can get 8:1. What is the difference between wet and dry turbo? Plus does any one know where i can get some turbo maps? (technical specs (spool range etc))

If i remember correctly, i turned the block upside down, then just poked them out. Obviously the bearing shells need to be removed before hand. I Think i used a 4mm drill bit and just gave them a slight tap with the hammer shaft, they arent in tight, in fact i think one just dropped out when i tipped up the block. Then to put them back in i used a 6mm punch, just tap them in until they are home. i am gonna give that a try tomorrow. if it dont come out ill smash the block of the floor >

what is that top cover that covers the rain bucket/collector? i want one, my cables run through there and would be nice if i can get a spiffy cover like that :grin: heres mine needs some TLC, and turbo/super

how did you get oil spray jets out of the block? i have looked around and can not see how one would remove them.

the real question here is, turbo or super charger? lower or higher CR? Original runs @ 10:1 i can increase it to 11:1 or lower it to 8:1 which would be better for which application (turbo/super)? I will still need to over bore due to small nick in cylinder wall. Low boost like 6-10psi (kinetic stage 2) or VF super charger, nothing more.

I have a 2.8L bottom end that i would like to get turbo/super charger ready. I wanna bore/hone the engine out, well to be in all fairness i need to bore/hone, because one of the cylinder walls is lightly damaged when piston shattered. The dilemma i am having is, weather or not i should increase or decrease the compression ratio plus should i go route of turbo or super charger. Ideas? Suggestions? i am open to all, and i will not cheap out on pistons/cons rods etc.

i am guessing you janked ignition cable out of the socket with out even knowing. I just cleaned up the same problem. The spark plugs are sparking but not @ full power so it hesitates. The OEM cables are total shiet make. It is really hard to remove them of the spark plugs and are not thus why they shouldn't be serviced. I have never had problem removeing ignition wires on any other car but vw. I have to use long needle nose plierrs to remove them out and there is not enough neck to grab onto. O yeah heres what i am talking about

LED light bottom left tends to flash every now and then. Coolant level is fine, replaced the 2pin blue sensor today, and coolant temperature does not go past 90C (low temp thermo/thermo switch) Ideas?

well i have tried re-routng the wires down the center its still the same buzzing sound. WTH is going on?? i am gonna try running -120dB noise cancel speaker wire on one of the speakers and see what happens.

replaced the ECU relay and it solved the problem. Still got FP relay on order will change that as well. THX

ignition switch i have replaced lol. Went dead last year so changed locking berral/igniton switch. I'll replace the 2 relays as suggested and see how it goes.

just the RCA's or RCA's and speaker wire?

My fuel pump relay clicks non stop when the ignition key is in on position (give it contact). Once the car is turned on it runs no problem. fuel pump relay crapping out?

I have recentely replaced my whole sound system. Pioneer HU, 3 sets of focal speakers (set in the dash, door cards and trunk), 3amps, 2x 2Channel MTX 200Watts and 1x 4Channel Kicker 400Watt. Plus 1 subwoofer. 4 channel amp is controlling speakers in the dash and door cards. First MTX controlling rear speakers, second MTX bridged for subwoofer control. Tsunami 1.2F capacitor feeding into two power blocks. Power block 1 for signal wires and power block 2 for power wires. I did not cheap out on anything used gold connectors for the speaker connections. The speaker wires and RCA cables run on passanger side where there is no other wires, and the power feed wires are comming from the drivers side along with the signal wire. Every time i start the car there is a little noise comming out of all the speakers. More i rev the car louder the noise. The noise can be masked out if i pass half way of HU volume power. Once the song fades out the noise is still there. Anyway to get rid of this? I have tried grounding the HU as suggested on another forum and installing a conditioner/supressor onto the alternator. I'll get some pictures up tomorrow to show the setup in the trunk.

i sprayed mine in the garage with 16gallon air tank. needles to say tank could not keep up and every once a while there is an air bubble or water run on it. you can buff those out.

has any one done a hood shock mod? gas shocks instead of prop bar? i would like to get an idea how to do it. post some pics if not too much to ask cheers

:lol: awsome

i knew that :wink: thx guys this works very well now :)

im sure of it. i have the thing cranked all the way to the top! still nothing this is how it sits at the moment: everything is held down with a nut. and i've got the adjusted almost all the way... unless i have to adjust downward this should lower the car lol. I've followed the benthly bible and have all the mounts in place starting from number 13 to number 11. Exect the spacer is inserted in the middle of the mount

I've had the issue with the rear coilovers since i got them. I've drove the car for about 6000km's now so they should be broken in. Last week i had the coilovers over cranked (adjuster was just above the threads) and made the car unbearable to drive and bouncy. Today I've toke the rear coils off again cleaned them and adjusted them about 5mm less then max setting (end of the threads). The car is no longer bouncy :D What I've noticed is that the rears cant go lower. I can still put good 4 fingers between the tire and wheel arch. I know some people on here have identical h&r as me and have the car lower then me. How come is this? Did i miss something? Any infromation would be helpful!

local toronto store :)

so i do need smaller mounts/spring cup?