mookie

VR6 | Blackberry Metallic aka Bramble Metallic | Newcastle Upon Tyne Price: £3100.00 or Swap/PX for Audi A4 Avant Description: Miles: 141K miles (going up...) Tax: 6months (end of March 2013) MOT: May 2013 (Last MOT had no advisories at all - Lookers VW dealership in Middlesborough). Colour: Blackberry metallic Tel: 079 68 5 8 5 4 1 0 It's a blackberry metallic, L-reg Corrado VR6. Full black leather interior, thorough service history and history file. Well looked after and drives well. Engine is standard VR6, 2.9litre lump, with a generic induction cone - I have a stock airbox (included) too but prefer the noise - and is quick, strong, and sounds amazing when you plant the throttle pedal. It also has a full stainless Miltek exhaust - single oval tail pipe - enough 'thrum' to notice but quiet at motorway cruising speed. Chains and tensioners done last year, as was headgasket (See below). It has a semi-polished inlet manifold and parts of the valve cover are polished too - not perfect but look good. The car is fitted with an SWG one piece scuttle cover too. No expense spared work done by Stealth Racing a year ago included (bill of £1630!): - Timing chains - Tensioner - New clutch - Oil pump - Other belts and tensioners - Sump gasket, inlet gasket, cam cover gasket Suspension are KW variant 1's Inox, with stainless steel bodies. Very clean, rust free with a firm but not bouncy ride, but definitely sporty. Currently sporting Audi TT 17inch Competition alloys, that I have painted an OEM silver colour (were a tarnished polished finish beforehand). Tyres are 195/45/17s, very skinny low profiles, and Toyo's. Interior is very very good, all black leather seats with black carpets and dash. No rips or tears. It has a Momo Race steering wheel, great size for the car and doesn't feel like the toy-style wheels like the Team. I have the warning triangle but not the first aid kit. Exterior paint is straight and good but not 100% perfect. Stone chips along the front of the bonnet and the strip under the grill/lights, with a patch round one washer jet where the paint has gone a bit funny (lacquer reacted). Couple of light waves in the bonnet too. Slight bubble on the outer edge of one wheel arch but hard to spot without looking. Small dent in the front edge of the bonnet where it dips to meet the grill, about an inch wide. Despite this it polishes up very well, very shiney. Electrics work - sunroof, fogs, spoiler windows, all the lights, door mirrors (sometimes you need to click the button twice), heaters on all speeds, all lights etc. It also has a Thatcham Cat 1 alarm and immobiliser with central locking. It has DDI illuminated dials too, which looks really good and give the interior a really nice modern feel (and are way easier to see in the dark!). It has Lupo wiper arms and aero wiperblades. The service book is very thorough. No expense spared on repairs or servicing - 2011 bill from Stealth Racing for an engine tear down and renewal. Loads of big bills for everything and anything on the car, and almost exclusively main dealer or specialist. In my short time with the car it's had a new rear engine and gearbox mounts (front is a vibratechnic fast road mount), rear brake pads, blue temp sensor, and to sort an idle/off throttle jerk issue I have put on a replacement (and cleaned) throttle body and much stiffer throttle damper (aka dashpot). I've tidied up some of the trim and other little aspects; plus I have replaced the Inpro rear lights with OEM amber and reds, plus the side repeaters from smoked to amber, and the front indicators are now amber too. A badged OEM grill went on just this weekend. I had a brand new windscreen fitted last weekend as the old one was scratched and stone chipped. Just replaced the later brittle plastic inlet pipe with an earlier thicker/beefy rubber inlet. The plate is a private one, and is included with the car. It's currently for sale and valued at £850. The car is originally an L-reg model before it got the private plate. It's currently got a pair of JBL component speakers with an amp and sub in the boot - I'm keeping the headunit, amp and sub but leaving the wiring and speakers, so it would be simple enough to put your own amp/sub in their instead. Could be persuaded to leave them in though... Negatives? Not many. The aforementioned stone chips and exterior bits is the main one . The passenger side window has been scratched by catching the rubber seal when wound down. Handbrake lever has been replaced with a shiney metal cover which isn't stock - not the end of the world I know. More than happy to talk on the phone is you want to ask any questions, could be stuff I've missed or not considered so feel free to interogate me. I'm selling to get an estate car due to family expansion next year. I'd like to sell the Corrado, but I am open to a deal involving an Audi A4 Avant (B6) either straight swap or a PX with cash my way or a small amount your way. Happy for test drives but only if insured! For 148 pics of the car in it's various guises and whatnot since I've owned it, go here >>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/mookboy/sets/72157629761366634/ Thanks!!! Photos: (Now has a cone filter) Now with a badged grill.

I'm after a good Blackberry Metallic VR6 bonnet. Undented, non-rusty, minimal stone chips please. Let me know if you have something that fits the bill.

Yo. ;) Looks sooooo good on the Gotti's.

Looks great in those photos, I need to copy you and tidy my callipers too!

I've now tried a known working MAF with no difference at all... Toyotec over on ClubGTi has said it's probably an air leak post-throttle... but after deleting the ISV damper and replacing some of the throttle/ISV pipes, i can't see anything else to check? I've tried spraying carb cleaner on the various pipes and joints, with no change in engine noise to suggest a leak. Really tearing my hair out now.

I'm having a bit of an issue with my Corrado VR6. When the car is cold, until I've driven it for a couple of minutes, the revs will drop to about 450-500rpm if you dip the clutch. It never actually stalls, but the sudden drop in revs can sometimes stick for a couple of seconds before they slowly climb back to what they should be. This never happens when the car is hot. In normal driving it runs fine, no problems or drop in performance. On VAGCOM it returned a 00533 error (Idle Speed Regulation - adaption limit exceeded) - http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00533 - it says bad fuel economy, but mine seems about right for a VR6, and as it only happens when cold I'm assuming the rest of the time nothing bad is happening as a result (would that rule out injectors?). I've tried to work my way through as many of the possible suggested causes, with no luck. So far I have done the following: - replaced the blue temp sensor - carb cleanered the ISV - tried a second alternative ISV - deleted the ISV damper box in case of air leaks - deleted the PCV and associated pipework, also in case of air leaks - sprayed carb cleaner over all vac lines with the car idling, no change in engine note, so assuming no air leaks - removed all air intake pipework after the MAF, inspected, can't find any holes or splits - ECU reset (twice) - VAGCOM suggests the lambda is fine, returning the correct value - inspected throttle body, looks clean as a whistle (worth removing and cleaning anyway?) - checked air filter (standard airbox) and it's clean and new looking - unplugged MAF, engine cuts out when idling (suggests it's OK?) - unplugged the ISV and engine idles at something like 1500rpm (suggests ISV and connections work?) - throttle damper checked, throttle isn't slamming shut - readjusted throttle cable in case it was too tight etc... - disconnected and cleaned most electrical connectors, including the big multiplug loom connector on the engine Any suggestions? I'm really struggling to figure out what to do next.

I've now replaced the rear engine mount and the problem persists. 100% sure it's not the dashpot causing the off throttle jerk... so bushes then? ---------- Post added at 12:32 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:20 AM ---------- Any suggestions for how to check for play for and aft? I tried the hard braking test and theres no obvious movement in the front wheel, although the speed used wasn't a lot. Here's another video from today, I thnk it's clearer - just so you know, the amount of force required to do this was tiny, using only about the first couple of inches of the bar as a lever. [video=youtube_share;0H_Ad2bhONE]http://youtu.be/0H_Ad2bhONE

Looks excellent mate!

Video 2 - driver side - listen for the noise http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ad9_pfSOxgM Direct link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ad9_pfSOxgM

Now I've also taken a pair of videos of the two rear wishbone bushes. I used a fairly short pry bar (about 6inches) and even in the tiny clearance between the wishbones and the ground, using just a couple of fingers on the bar and levering it maybe 2inches up and down, I was able to create movement in the wishbone - this was with very very little force applied. Is that normal? I'd expected it to be much stiffer than that? In the second vid (driver side) you can hear the bush make a funny creak/squeaky sound. Video 1 - passenger side - 28seconds it very obvious http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DeMQ6p9EYLc Direct link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DeMQ6p9EYLc

Sorry, it's a VR6. I can't get much movement out the engine at all by hand, however I have taken a video of the engine bay - handbrake on, in gear, releasing the clutch. First part is in 1st gear, from about 27seconds it's in reverse. [video=youtube;AhOM-x16wIo]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AhOM-x16wIo Direct link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AhOM-x16wIo Rather than the engine lifting up on it's own, you can see the whole car move and settle. Does this look alright? It doesn't look out of the ordinary to me... :bonk:

I hope the VT mount is OK... I actually bought a new standard mount without realising I already had a VT mount... but can't use the standard mount as it's missing the lower cup bit now on the subframe. I'll try what you suggested and report back.

I replaced the gearbox mount, the front mount is a VT mount and seems solid. The back engine mount hasn't been replaced... but like I say there is only fractional movement if you rock the engine by hand. None towards the front or gearbox, with just a tiny bit of flex in the back mount, but no knocking... movement feels more like what you'd expect as it's so so slight and more like flex than play.

I've tried numerous things to eliminate my on/off throttle jerks. Different ISV, engine mounts, pipework, ECU rest, new throttle damper... nothing has worked so far. However after I spent a bit of time forcing the car to do it on purpose, I have come to the conclusion I can feel weight shifting at the front of the car - like the engine is moving and isn't tightly fastened down and is knocking forward and backwards (best way I can describe it...). Trying to rock the engine by hand produces virtually no movement at all so I'm assuming my mounts are alright - the only movement is generated in the rear engine mount but it's slight and I'm unsure if it's as it should be? I am also able to create a clanking sound that is hard to hear in motion, but if I say engage reverse and come on and off the clutch whilst moving slowly, is very audible. Soooooo my final area to troubleshoot seems to point to wishbone bushes. I've jacked the car up and had a look. Visually the two rear wishbone bushes look fine. The don't look at all perished or crusty. Having said that, there's no evidence in the service file to say they've ever been replaced either... the front tubular bushes I couldn't see clearly enough. So aside from a visual check, is there another way for me to try and decide whether I need to change them or that I might be barking up the wrong tree? Could they generate the aforementioned clanking sound?

Yeah! Looking forward to the videos!