marcocorrado

Hi guys. Well after lots of persuading i think i have just convinced my friend to IHI his 20v turbo in the Rado. At the moment the car is an AGU lump running on qpeng with a K03s, 316cc injectors large FMIC and has been very reliable...........(thankfully as i did the conversion) Until a nightmare happened. (Sump failure and large piece of casting bouncing up into the oil pump pulling the chain off and buggering the crank) But thats another story. So with the nightmare out of the way now the decision has been made to just straight swap the engine for another which has now been sourced..... However the thought has always been in my head since i did the conversion to IHI the engine and put a LSD in too. But im finding it hard to find anyone else to speak to that has done the IHI fit themselves. So if anyone knows anything about the IHI fit such as Turbo options, manifold options, injector requirements and downpipes etc then i would love to hear from them before i dive in blind. Im not even sure about clearances for turbo/manifold and any different pipework for the turbo. Also if anyone has any idea atall about LSD's in the standard 2.0 16v gearbox then it would be good to hear from you too. Thanks Marcus

Well I'm 90% sure. Have u seen the oil pump pulley? It's pretty flimsy. This piece of metal was 1/2 inch square, so not small at all. I don't see how else the chain would have jumped off. Something had to get caught to cause that. Do u have any other suggestions?

Right chaps. Howdy, Long time no speak. Mainly because i sold the Corrurbo to a friend and all has been well.... until now. Ok to start with the car is a 1994 2.0 16v which i converted to an AGU K03s lump with Qpeng, FMIC, 316cc injectors (i think). All has been very well until about 2 months ago when my pal managed to find the largest pothole in GB adn cracked the sump, losing all oil and pressure causing lights and buzzers to go off (good job coz i made the loom myself. Quite relieved) anyway as a suck it and see atempt at a cheap fix i changed the sump for a shallow one thinking there may be worse consequences to the lack of oil running. However the car responded very well to just the new sump and was running rather sweet for a number of weeks until bbbbbuuuzzzzzzz. No oil pressure again. This time my pal wanted to change the pressure switch and pump. SO i whipped off the sump to find metal and plastic and more metal in the pan. One chunk was about 1/2 inch square. Hmmmm. After putting the sump down and looking towards the crank i **** myself to find that the chain to the pump was not even connected to the pulley. Oh.... Hmmm. Then more mortified to see the pump pulley was buckled by about 1/2 inch. I guessed that this was caused by the chunk of ally (a lug from the NEW sump turbo return pipe bolt thread) bouncing into the chain and causing grief. The chain from the crank now slips like buggery around the crank/pump gear. BAAAAD news. So upon telling my dear friend the news, a new AGU lump is required. So much less hastle than a rebuild. The big question now though is...... IHI and LSD or not? It only has the standard 2.0 gearbox. Is the gearbox man enough and what diff is needed? Whats the best IHI route plus costs etc? Im not concerned about the effort required. Any help or questions or advice would be hugely appreciated. Especially about the LSD. It needs one big time.

Right chaps. Howdy, Long time no speak. Mainly because i sold the Corrurbo to a friend and all has been well.... until now. Ok to start with the car is a 1994 2.0 16v which i converted to an AGU K03s lump with Qpeng, FMIC, 316cc injectors (i think). All has been very well until about 2 months ago when my pal managed to find the largest pothole in GB adn cracked the sump, losing all oil and pressure causing lights and buzzers to go off (good job coz i made the loom myself. Quite relieved) anyway as a suck it and see atempt at a cheap fix i changed the sump for a shallow one thinking there may be worse consequences to the lack of oil running. However the car responded very well to just the new sump and was running rather sweet for a number of weeks until bbbbbuuuzzzzzzz. No oil pressure again. This time my pal wanted to change the pressure switch and pump. SO i whipped off the sump to find metal and plastic and more metal in the pan. One chunk was about 1/2 inch square. Hmmmm. After putting the sump down and looking towards the crank i **** myself to find that the chain to the pump was not even connected to the pulley. Oh.... Hmmm. Then more mortified to see the pump pulley was buckled by about 1/2 inch. I guessed that this was caused by the chunk of ally (a lug from the NEW sump turbo return pipe bolt thread) bouncing into the chain and causing grief. The chain from the crank now slips like buggery around the crank/pump gear. BAAAAD news. So upon telling my dear friend the news, a new AGU lump is required. So much less hastle than a rebuild. The big question now though is...... IHI and LSD or not? It only has the standard 2.0 gearbox. Is the gearbox man enough and what diff is needed? Whats the best IHI route plus costs etc? Im not concerned about the effort required. Any help or questions or advice would be hugely appreciated. Especially about the LSD. It needs one big time.

Well what a nice/stupid/obvious surprise. I managed to get a friend with some tools to come out to help take some bits apart. After about an hour we found that we wre getting no fuel. Luckily I had stopped in a petrol station. Put some more fuel in and away she went. Lol. The fuel gauge was stuck on a quarter of a tank and still is. I only drive the car once or twice a week so I didn't know how much fuel I had used. How glad was I. False alarm. Never run out of fuel before lol. On another note, I agree... I qpeng thread would be a great help.

Bugger. I'm sat in the local services now with a broken car. Just washed the motor. Driving fine for ten mins. Now all of a sudden it spluttered and was struggling to run. I limped into the services and it sounds like it's wad running on 3. Just about idled. Now it won't even start. It's an agu with qpeng. Any ideas? Recon something is wet? I really am stuck here. Please help lol

Well..... Its fixed itself. I think i may need to investigate while its working. I think the lock must not have moved far enough to unlock properly. Random Cheers anyway guys. Nice

Sorry. I didnt explain the problems quite right. The door pin moves up and down exactly when it should, but i just cant open the door. How do i get into the door card to have a look lol

Right well i just went out for a quick drive into town with a mate in the car and he was happily enjoying his experience untill he found he couldnt get out. So i popped round to the passenger side to let him out using the outside handle and that didnt work either. He had to jump over in the end. I have since tried the key in the door and the clifford fob and they both motor the locked indicator pin thing on top of the door card. It moves up and down but not with much enthusiasm but it does move. The internal handle feels the same wether the door is locked or not i.e moves freely and springs back. I guess i cant get the door card off so im a bit stumped. hmmm Any ideas. Im going to advertise the car soon so i would like to sort it asap. cheers

Hi Guys. Im hoping some of you here may have unfortunately encountered the same problem that i am having at the moment. I have a 1.8t (AGU) with a K03s turbo, 315cc injectors and a decent sizes FMIC. Its running about 18psi most of the time. However i am experiencing a strange pulsing type boost in 3rd 4th and 5th gears. 1st and 2nd dont feel it because they are done with so quickly. The car is running on Qpeng management and has been for 4500k with no probs till now. Any ideas? It doesnt seem to do it all of the time. Thanks :D

Christ man. I think with starting in English may help people to help you out. :shrug: I think you asking about the wheel hubs and suspension uprights there and if you have the 9A engine i think im right in saying you can just use your standard gearbox on the 1.8t so wont need to change the suspension/hubs etc. Im not a pro like many of the people on here but have recently finished this conversion on a 2l 16v and is now a sweet motor. A few things depend on what golf you have to start with though. I guess you want to stay with standard management? We used Qpeng management but having now done the job could quite easily run the standard management with an unlocked ecu. Anyway, here is the place to ask the questions for any help you need. Just speak plain English and you will be well away. Cheers

Hello mate, I have just finished a project on a friends car using an AGU 1.8t engine which has the cable throttle and big port head. I think the AGU was an early engine so will probably always have higher mileage. They are 150bhp as standard, and from what i was told, so dont quote me, an easier engine to use if your going to use a qpeng DIY kit for the loom etc. You will find plenty of help on here mate soo fire awayy with questions and you will always get an answer.

The standard valver gearbox and drive shafts. All fits in nicely then.

Ok well i cant remember where we got the intercooler from right now but ill get on the case to let you know. 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfIntercooler.jpg[/attachment:17ft9a4d] Intercooler2.jpg[/attachment:17ft9a4d] Hopefully you can see the picture ive tried to upload above. Thats where we mounted the intercooler using some home made brackets. Seems to fit in there nicely and its a decent size. Boost pipework is a bit of a squeeze but you cant see it from the front which is what we wanted. The standard 2.0 16v radiator fits behind the intercooler after cuttung off the radiator scoop bolt lugs but will probably need changing for a bigger one in the near future. If your running an IHI with 300 ish hp then you will deffinately need a larger one. There is plenty of room for a longer one with the same depth. As for the fan. We got a slim line fan because the standard one is so big. Ill find out exactly where we got all our stuff from and let you know. Im sure you will have many questions for the forum once you get started. Are you using standard management? We may have a loom and ecu thats been unlocked from the clocks at home too if your were interested. Ill pm you once i get some more details. Good luck

Yeah nice choice. Should have gone with 9s though :lol: joking, not everyones taste. How low? Nice dish on them

Hi BIG k. Just like to say i have just about finished a 1.8t conversion on a friends Rado and it drives very nicely. It doesnt drive like a modified car ( rough and lumpy) quite smooth. Its not all finished yet. Still have some tidying up to do and to get it on the rollers next week. We did start the conversion in August though lol. :lol: A number of things came up that slowed us down. A dud first engine was the main problem but buying a house didnt help either (time) Im guessing you are planning to do the job yourself? We used a qpeng diy kit for the loom and have an AGU engine with 315cc injectors, a ko3s and quite a big intercooler. Ben from qpeng thinks about 230 hp. Anyway i wouldnt say we are experts by any means but feel free to pick away at my brains whilst things are fresh in my mind. Im sure there are a number of other people here willing to help also. Good choice for the 1.8 i think mate, light engine with more power. :salute:

As a reply to that last post, How did you know what temperature to set the gauge too? :scratch: Cheers

Olly. Just thought id let you know im back now mate and you can get back in my garage now and carry on doing your engine fit and the wiring when you feel like it. I think you have done a brilliant job so far. Keep up the good work. :notworthy: Looking forward to seeing how you finish the wiring off mate. :scratch: Nice

Is it really? Because there is one on eBay listed for a VR6. I heard that there is a difference between the VDO and the Bosch valves. Correct? If so how do i know which is the correct one

I cant seem to find any on ebay. Everyone keeps saying to try there and i never get any joy. Im not paying £130 for one. As for scrappies, well the ones around here are crap and only have fords or vauxhalls in.

My ICV is now unservicable and im looking to get a new one. Its a VDO if that makes any difference. Im wondering if i can get one for less than £130 and if so... where? Unless anyone has one lying around at home ofcourse :D

Hi guys. Im guessing that many of you will have heard this question before but i could do with some advice as to what to do. THe idle on the car hunts from about 1k-1.5k and is only doing about 28 mpg at best on a motorway journey of 70 miles at 70mph. The car Is a 1993 2.0 16v and standard. Will the ISV make a difference to the fuel consumption? I swapped my ISV with a mates and the cars runs perfect but have not had a chance to test it for MPG as he wanted it back for some reason :shrug: . I dont want to have to fork out for a new one if i dont have to. Ive since cleaned my one out and the idle is much better but still not perfect. Anyone recon that this will effect the MPG. The car isnt insured at the moment so a long test run is a bit out of the question really. If anyone thinks that changing the valve will better the cars running then i will but a new one. ANY idea where to find a cheap one and how much? Think mine is a VDO. The sticker is a bit ripped. Any help would be appreciated as i dont really want to start driving the car till i have it sorted, especially with the price of fuel at the moment. Cheers Marco