marf497

oxygen sensor thats what was up with mine make sure its an original sensor not a generic sensor as i had changed the cat & oxygen sensor and started having problems about 6 months after I thought the sensor & cat would be ok as fairly new but got a new original sensor fitted and solved the problem

I take it, it is when you remove the strut that causes the problem can you get away with marking the bolts with tipex or something or is it to fine an adjustment?? Cheers.

I have a problem with one of my rear brakes just when it goes below zero the cable freezes and sticks on there is a boot on the cabke that splits and moisture gets in i've had this problem from I got my corrado 2 years ago but I just leave it in gear. The other thing it could be is the cable could be frayed and catching I had that years ago on an old Astra.

Thanks what needs to get alligned is it the steering??

cheers do you just remove the caliper and disk then is it a hub carrier and knock out the old bearing and press in the new one.Can you put the new one in with a vice or can you knock it in. Also i take it you need to grease the inside of the bearing. Cheers

I just got a new front wheel bearing for my 94 2l 16v i've only ever done back wheel bearings before wher you have the bearing and the bit you knock out of the hub and the seal. This bearing seems to be 1 unit and 2 circlips and a new bolt is this right. Had a search but couldn't find anything about how to change is it straight forward. Cheers in Advance.

Eventually got to the bottom of this problem I took my car to Bedrocks veedubs vw specialists in Motherwell it was my oxygen sensor causing over fuelling. At the end of last year i had a new cat and oxygen sensor fitted as i've found out these engines don't like aftermarket oxygen sensors so new VW oxygen sensor and mixture reset and my car is now running a dream.

i seen somewhere and done this myself that you put an amp meter on the connector on the engine side of the metering head with the engine running and at normal temperature and you adjust the screw with a long reach 3mm allen key let the reading settle it will fluctuate a bit but for the 2l 16v your looking for 2.5ma the reading will bounce about a bit the lower the reading it is running rich and the higher it is running lean to make it rich turn the screw clockwise & anticlockwise for lean also don't rev the engine with the allen key in as it can damage something in the metering head. You need the amp meter in series if your using a digital meter and its reading negative swap your leads round(i snipped one of the wires to put in my amp meter and done the adjustment then rejoined the wire).

I've got another metering head so i'm going to change it over and connect up the connector and see how it goes i noticed 1 of the wires on this connector goes to the coolant sensor so might be the coolant sensor but i'll change the metering head first. Cheers.

Eventually got round to having a good look at this if i disconnect the connector from the metering head the connector on the wing side then i have no problems only thing is when engine is hot i think it revs a little higher would this point to the coolant sensor or is it a metering head problem?? Cheers.

put my old clocks back in and my mpg on the mfa are ok now no vacuum pipe connected. Tried swapping over the dial for the revs as the spacing was different but still showed low.

Check that your getting 12v on the coil (black & green whires on the 3 pin connector I think) i had a problem with mine I was only getting about 5v on the coil and no spark I thought it was the coil amplifier or the ecu as when i disconnected ecu i got 12v I ended up getting the pin out for the ecu and fusebox and it was a problem with a connector on the back of my fusebox viewtopic.php?f=1&t=76317

16v clocks i only changed them as my revs where reading a lot lower than they should be i'm going to change them back tomorrow and see if my mpg is ok just can't see this vacuum pipe anywhere. not sure if it is used on my mine its a 1994.

I put new clocks in my 2l 16v (9a) as my old clocks where VR clocks my new clocks work great except the MPG is miles out showing about 15mpg had a search and seen posts about a vacuum pipe on the back of the clocks. When i removed my old clocks(mpg was ok on them) i didn't see any vacuum pipe ive had my clocks out and can't find this vacuum pipe is this pipe only on VR6's?? or should it be their ive removed the bottom cover under the steering column at the pedals and still cant see this pipe. Any ideas would be apreciated.

Cheers i'll have a look tomorrow i was going by column 8 from this link http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/m_blocks/000.html when you say that column 1 if the value is high then the ecu will think the engine is freezing i'm sure mine was reading about 80 with the engine still warm (started about 20mins after a run) i thought the reading was the actual temperature i see yours is about 135 do you know how to convert these readings into actual measurements. Also with your measurements what temperature was your engine?? Cheers.