dames

i found this russian web address somewhere on the forum website. ive not used the information yet so i dont know how good it is but its free! b4 u ask yes it is in english. ive bound it up and indexed it an dit looks ther part anyway. http://volkswagen.msk.ru/

a similar thing happened to me a few years ago, but with a fair bit of smoke! i shat myself stopped and turned off the ignition before bailing out. when i turned the ignition off though the smoke stopped. then i couldnt reproduce it again and took it apart at work. it turns out that the wiring loom from the light switch had chaffed on the dash chasis and was burning the rest of the loom and insulation. it carried on burning because the clown who had it before me put a 20A fuse in presumably to stop the propper 5A from blowing. new cable & lots of protectiev tape sorted it. dont know if that helps but it got it off my chest :)

ok, so its time to change my timing belt. is it as easy as marking the positions of the cam pulley and the crank shaft pulley then simply remove and replace the belt and tensioner without moving the markings? I'm guessing that there is more to it than that but i havent got any books to refer to and i know what will happen if i balls it up!!!!

the squeak is a doddle to fix provided there are no under lying problems with tensioners etc. put some talcum powder on the inner ribbed surface of the charger belt. (remove the black plastic cover on the charger side of the engine) be very carefull if you do this with the engine running cos it will have your hand off if you get caught!!! the fix lasts for months as well. i think its because a slightly older belt gets polished with friction. alternatavely a new belt isnt too expensive, but its allways nice to get a cheap fix.

its dead simple. the filter costs about £6 from euro car parts. you will need to pinch the fuel pipe coming from the tank closed with some mole grips or a small hand vice. be carefull to protect the rubber pipe from sharp metal edges with some padding. i found it easier to undo the whole mounting plate from the underside of the car (two 12/13mm nuts) then take the filter and mounting plate to a workbench to wd40 the clamp loose. make sure you have something to catch the 1/2 pint of fuel that will pour from the engine side of the filter and the filters contents. fitting is the reversal but make sure you fit the filter the right way, it will have an arrow on it. it may take a few seconds of cranking the engine to prime the pipes with fuel again. you may find that like on mine (150,000 miles) it made absolutely no difference, but its nice to show the c some love every now and again. :)

i had a similar problem and thought my gearbox / clutch was knackered. but somewhere on this forum there was a mention of a circlip missing from the selecter shaft and its dead easy to check. pull up the gearshif gaiter from the base, it just unclips, then looking down on the stick, on the passenger side there is a horizontal shaft running right to left,(its a circular bar). at its furthest point left there should be a goldy colour circlip fixing the horizontal bar to some gubbins. i found mine had just broken and fallen onto the shelf below. worked on mine anyway but i still need a new clutch!!!

i had a simmilar probley years ago, after much sobbing about the ecu being faulty i replaced the electrical part of the ignition switch in the key switch housing. its only about £16 but is a bit fiddly to get at the screws holding it in. my way was to bend some watchmakers screwdrivers so i could fit them in to the gaps and then turn them with pliers. worked for me. good luck. :D

i have a similar problem but sometimes it resets when i crank the engine and sometimes when i swithch the ignition on. no real pattern though. i dont think its a "clocking problem" though ive had my g 60 for 7 years and it only started doing it about a year ago. ive also tried replacing the ignition switch (electrical only) but still no good. ripping the dash and mfa apart is too drastic so i just live with it. id love someone to come up with a cheap fix though......heres hoping :?

if u insert thge key into the barrel b4 removing the circlip it seems to hold it all together better. also watch out 4 the small white central locking switch and springy bits coming loose. i dismantled mine in a transparrant plastic bag just in case. refitting is the reverse......piece of piss :lol:

cheers banana man, Ill have a go at that and let u know how it turns out

oh yeah....... and its a G60.

anyone got any ideas about the lumpy start from cold. it used to fire up instantly on turning the key, but suddenly now needs a few seconds before it runs smoothly. this is really only a cold start problem and the colder it is outside the more lumpy the start, and sometimes needs 2 or 3 cranks untill it gets hold and then runs fine. Im thinking its an air/water/oil temp sensor problem but I dont know where any of them are. come on make my day tell me its an easy fix.