tobe_k

Here are a couple of pics of what it looked like, before i ripped it off... 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfSP_A0324.jpg[/attachment:1m71ltt6] SP_A0325.jpg[/attachment:1m71ltt6]

That mini trick is hilarious! Not sure it would suit the rado! Vinyl only cost me a tenner for enough to do the bonnet. I did it, but had a few too many bubbles and creases for a first attempt. Gave me a good idea of how it looks though and i wasn't too keen. I think the roof in black would look sounds though... so the vinyl was ripped off, which actually helped take the rest of the laquer off ready for prepping. Going to get a couple of quotes and see what it will cost. In the areas the vinyl actually worked, it looked mint, almost like new paint. Im pretty sure a black roof on a silver car would work well, so thats the decision... Just need to sort the rust on the roof first before covering.

True, but saving to do my bike tests at the moment, all my money seems to be going towards that.. plus i have the roll of vinyl for the roof so just thought i might throw it on temporarily. But after this thread, i've definatley started to think twice about it, which is good, i appreciate peoples opinions.. Save for a respray i guess, just means it might have to wait a little longer than id like.

I know completley what you mean.... I'm not sure im keen myself, but finding a satin silver VR bonet is impossible, and i cant really afford the cost of respraying mine at the moment.... Its really tatty, just lets the whole car down, although i see what your saying.. It might look even worse with a black one.... hmm, im back to just doing the roof again.....

haha, it was done in paint! not the most tools on hand to make a decent job... worked with what i had... if anyone wants to do me another feel free ;) Just found that splitter, dont seem to be any around, but im going to try seat tomorrow and see. 90mm splitters just get taken off on the slightest bumps so i gotta get something else really. Im going to vinyl the bonnet, and like you say, if i dont like it i can whip it off and get a respray! Was also thinking about doing the A pillars, door tops and C pillars, making a black cockpit type thing, but one step at a time hey, see how it looks on the bonnet and roof first...

Hi, Bought a roll of black vinyl the other day, planning on covering my roof... but do i also do the bonnet? Basically, its a satin silver car, but the bonnet is badly mis matched in colour and the laquer is peeling... so it needs a re-spray whatever, thought black vinyl may get me out of this fairly cheaply... want peoples opinions as to weather it looks good? I've attempted a pretty bad photochop, wha'd ya recon? 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfblackbonnet2.JPG[/attachment:2vlosiit] Oh and one more thing, does anyone know what this splitter is off? Airride1Medium.jpg[/attachment:2vlosiit] Cheers. Tobe

I know this problem is sorted now, but just out of interest, was your starter wiring a bit dirty or lose? I had exactly the same problem a few times, and i was thinking about purchasing a new starter, but thought id give it a clean first and this sorted it, its not done it now for a couple of months. I wouldnt throw your old starter away as it might still be good.... Just incase you need a spare.... As for the alarm, mine is a Toad Ai606 aswell and it arms itself after 30 seconds or so after removing the key from the switch... Im sure the light does its own thing sometimes.. But generally it does as you described. Cheers.

When you say "sounds like a belt" do you mean its got too much tension or not enough or something else? As for whether the rack was changed with the engine, i just dont know, they guy that did the conversion owned the car 2 owners previous to me. I would assume that he would have kept the 1.8 rack if it was all working properly. Is there anyway i can tell easily? One theory i did have was that the steering tie rod ends might have some extra play, hence the steering rack is moving before the wheels start to turn themselves. This would also make them tighten up on entrance into corners, especially under braking which is when its worse.... the play might cause the wheels to toe in or out a bit. This could also result in extra strain on the bearing which might have been the cause... Does this sound plausable? I guess the only way to find out for sure is to get busy with the spanners, just some ideas of things to especially look for when i do is the idea of this post.. Cheers for your replies so far yan and boost

Hi, I own a Corrado VR6, although it was formerly a 1.8 16v. Think its still running the original sterring rack, which i assume is the same on the VR and the Valvers. Anyway, Its really hard, especially when first starting in the mornings, you really have to hang on the steering wheel and do a few lock to locks before it losens off, It really stiffens up when going into corners aswell. Any ideas? Pump, rack, track rods? Im pretty sure i have a knackered NSF wheel bearing aswell as its getting pretty noisy which could be affecting it, but not as much as it does. I havent stripped it apart yet as ive been too busy so looking for some ideas first before i do and if anyone else has ever experience this... Cheers, Tobe.

Just thought id update this post so anyone having this problem at a later date will know what to try. Ended up changing the plugs and number 6 was knackered, it was cracked and not firing so i was running on 5 cylinders... not sure as to the cause but car seems ok now ive swapped out all the plugs. Think it was 2 seperate problems, the fuel problem which was cured by the new filter and then a week later not firing on all 6. Car felt the same with both lack of fuel and lack of spark. Its good to have the power back, im happy again. Cheers.

Hey thanks critical, appreciate your research. From what i can make out then i dont have a method to read the codes from the OBD1 engine which is a shame. Back to the drawing board with this problem.... also getting terrible MPG aswell which i dont really get as i thought i was running lean..... :?

No ABS no. Does that mean that i can run diagnostics through that single black plug and i dont actually need the white one?

Ive found out a mate of mine has the kit to run diagnosis, but.... i looked under the gear gator and i only have a single 2 pin black plug.... its a 93 VR6 engine from a golf so i take it it should have the white plug somewhere aswell? is the black 2 pin a diagnosis port for the 1.8 16v as it used to be?

Does anyone know if there is anyone around the sheffield area with a VAG.com kit? Im heading to Leeds at the weekend if there is anyone there aswell. Im not sure which connector i have yet, ill have to check. Might be a problem cos my car was originally a 1.8 16v but its now a 2.8 VR6 from a golf so the plug might not be located under the gear gator as i believe 1.8s didnt have a diagnosis port there? I hate driving a fast car slow....

I think getting the fault codes is the first thing i should do. Im in sheffield so ill try and find someone around this area who can help. Ill check the sticky thanks. And dr mat i know your right about it being flat off cam, but this is running flat right through the rev range. You can hear its not as smooth, sounds a bit like it needs to clear its throat.... Cheers for your help fellas

Hmm sounds like you are having the same problems as me.... Ive started a new thread with my particular problem but will keep an eye in here aswell. Like you say, if its the lambda sensor wouldnt that make it run rich not lean? I can hear some hissing around the idle stabilisation valve, but cant see any real signs of cracks. Not sure if its just theh flow through the pipes and valve that makes the noise or weather there is a leak there. My fuel filter seemed to sort it out for a few days, but its gone back to how it was, really underpowered and sounding a bit gruff after i didnt drive it for a day..... it makes no sense. Im thinknig it might be the fuel pump? have you checked yours? how much does it cost to get vw to hook it up and get fault codes? Thanks, Tobe

Hi there, Been having some trouble recently. Car was running with a real lack of power and sounding pretty rough Took the plugs out and they were pretty white, so obviously figured it was a fuel problem, so starting with the cheapest first i changed the filter... Seemed to do the trick. Id been driving with a lack of power for a few days so when it felt faster i assumed it was like before, although i still think it wasnt pulling as hard. Anyway, seemed ok for a few days, but then after a day of not driving, its gone back to how it was today.... Last time it did it it was after not driving for a whole day.... weather this means anything or not i dont know... Any ideas? Fuel pump? whats the best way to test this? Thought it might be an air leak after the MAF but cant find anything obvious... Annoying me like hell, getting the fuel economy of a vr but its as slow as a peugeot 106! Cheers guys. Tobe.

Hi, Just wondering if you managed to sort this problem out as i am having a similar thing at the moment. Lack of power throughout the whole rev range. Starting with the fuel filter and working up to the expensive parts. I noticed that my plugs are all a bit white (i.e. running lean) Thought it might be a leak somewhere in the induction system, so its drawing more air than the ECU thinks.... But cant spot anything obvious. Thinking the MAF sensor could also be the problem... How much are they to get a replacement? how can you tell if its the MAF thats knackered? If i unplug it while shes running im assuming ill notice the change... I need to get it sorted as it feels like im 17 again and driving a 1.1 peugeot!!! Would an old/blocked fuel filter really make this much difference? Thanks in advance for any help. Cheers, Tobe

Thanks chaps, thats a bit better than i thought with fuel economy then, but still doesnt help with the stuttering problem... Time to make sure all the senders are clean i feel....

Thinking about it you are right, i just went on the fuel gauge, which says 15 gallons at max, but its not, its more like 10-11. 48 litres (ish) so i suppose thats around 25-26 MPG like you say.... Im not sure when it had a service, but i think i should get new plugs/leads etc How much do VAG charge to get the error codes read? Thanks for your help.

Hey I just bought a vr last week. Absolutley loving the car, but i have some concerns... Firstly, its a 2.8 from the golf dropped into a 1.8 16v. so its not the 190 bhp engine most rados run. Which is why im concerned im only getting 280 miles on a tank, and thats not using a lead foot all the time. Costs around £45 to fill up the tank. I figure this is around 18MPG. The car also seems to have a problem once its warm with hesitation and almost missing around 3000 RPM, sitting at 80 it judders like its not sparking but when you put your foot down she pulls like a train.... I had the problem the other week that it wouldnt start, as in nothing at all from the starter, so i cleaned the ring terminals on the startr and it seemed to cure the problem. But there is a chance it could have been the ignition switch, would this cause a similar problem as described. I thought it could be a dirty crank angle sensor? any other ideas, worth stripping and cleaning any bits? Thought it could be a temp sender playing up, the blue sender is for the ECU right? I have a problem that my temp gauge doesnt work either. Thought it was the yellow sender, but changed it and its still the same.... wired in a fan switch to try and stop overheating as the fans arent coming on as normal... Any ideas guys? I want to improove my MPG and sort out this stuttering problem? Thinking cleaning the injectors in an ultra sonic bath could be a good move... Cheers in advance, Tobe