KarlosG60

Hello 

I have the O-rings sets. But I don't understanding what is talking about here. What I should replace? Which part is yellow here? I only see ORANGE. Am I daltonic?

I just bought a pack of 4 seals set por 8EUR from BOSCH. Comparing references it seems the same. But didn't come with the micro-filter like this set does:

https://www.ebay.es/itm/332423959672

What size this filters has? In AE there's a lot of them

Hi,
Today I cleaned injectors one by one using syringue as a fuel ramp, and a lot of PTFE to keep the pressure inside.

I saw how the spray on every injector became from 3-4 streams to a visible an audible spray. So, for me are cleaned and ok, but didn't check for leakings. Maybe in the future. First I want to know if the car will run well.

My doubt now it's about the seals replacements. My injectors reference are: 0280150905 and this is the reference ETKA says: 030 198 031

VWClassic has stock, but I don't know where the gray seal and one of black seals are fitted:

My injector:

Two of black seals, one orange at the end. But the other two? 

I don't have here the injector, buy maybe the gray it's near the orange? 

1 hour ago, andyzplace said:

FYI, I used the Loctite rear view mirror bonder on my campervan and have had no issues. The key is to spend time prepping / degreasing the mount / screen, follow the instructions and wait as long as possible before installing the rear view mirror to the mount.

Nice advice. Thank you, I will check it.

I just asking because the car is not running now, so maybe I can install the mirror myself. But I will do that are you saying, @Wullie, and bring it to my workshop to do that. They already know me.

Thank you guys.

What type of drink do you think should be

Hi,

I just bought the mounting for interior mirror (after years searching it for a reasonable price!). So, what I need to do to mounting? What type of glue I need?

Thanks

1 hour ago, Dox said:

Plug 3 is clean, is the piston top clean too?

No. All four are dirty, but if i'm not wrong, piston head are black, so I can't assure you 100%. BUt looking at how spark plugs came out every time, it's very possible they are.

I have pending to buy a mobile endoscope accesory to look inside the cylinder.

Before I open the thread there (no time now), this is what it need to be replaced on every injector?

https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.com/catalog/en_global/search?q=030 198 031

This item x4 times? 40 euros on that? There is another option? I saw Topran one, but this brand is not reliable I think... And we talking about fuel is an important system of the car. Cannot mount poor materials.

Thank you @Popeye775

I will open a thread on Vortex, to talk about bad fuel mixing. I know this a so talked topic about, but not always they are good.

Thanks for the advice for AFR gauge, I will definetely take a look. 

10 hours ago, Popeye775 said:

What spark plugs are you running? Are they OEM heat spec? 

To me, the plugs look a bit fouled - 1, 2, and 4 - as if they are carbon fouled or if your air:fuel mixture is too rich. Somebody please correct me if I am wrong on this though. 

 

Also, please remind me, do you have a Bentley manual or a version of it either PDF or printed?

They are OEM, Beru. But +10 years old. They don't have too much mileage (I'm sure < 3000kms), but they are old and a lot of cold start-ups + fuel supply issues + ignition issues.

The mixture I'm sure is not good, because before I found wiring issues, I manipulated CoPot and so... I will set to 500ohms.

Yes, I have Bentley. 

But before replace spark plugs I think I'll check/listen with stethoscop/clean the injectors. Also I will check if exists spark on every spark plug. 

Hi,

Just did the timing. I don't know if it's perfect, but the engine can run up, the "only" issue now It's I think injector #3 is dead or stuck, because spark plug #3 every time I run up engine and dismount them, it's completely dry and clean. So next I'm gonna need to do is dismount the injectors and send them to repair and clean.

I will open new thread about this if I need some hints.

Thanks you guys for your help in fixing my car wiring.

UPDATE

Hi everyone.

After two weekend I return to real important things: my Corrado.

Previous day got pending to install charged battery and check voltage at hall sender.

So this is what I did today and voilà! I got 11.20V at Hall Sender connector! 💪

I checked spark, turning distributor by hand: all good. So I tried to run the engine and it run up easy but very bad idle. Need to adjust ignition timing and CO2.

So, I think I can say this issue is (finally) closed.

Some more pictures. Blue sensor water temp. Also I did Throttle connector (no pictures).

Done:

The working cave place:

Next step will be check V at hall connector. If it's fixed I will then do a bit more wires and connectors (ISV, injectors, gauge water temp...),  tidy and protect everything and go to next step, that will be to pull down oil sump, because I think something drop inside the other day. 🤦‍♂️

Even it's fixed or not I think I will replace hall sender, now it is outside the engine.

This is how I am working with wire fixing. I made a spreadsheet in Google. 

Keep working on wiring and connectors:

Supplier where I'm buying stuff to fix and repair wires don't have too much of bicolor wires and only in 1mm section. So I'm using pairs of color that are similar and equal or less than 1mm. Those bigger than 1mm usually are in one color (I think) and supplier in this case got a lot of colors. This is why you will see colors that don't fit with what colors are in the diagrams.

This week I will finish with the wires I listed to be fixed (there's a lot more to be fixed) and will see what happen.  

Linux with Brave. Not working.

I'm newbie soldering. I don't know how to do it better 😅

Well, this ugly factory connector needs to be remade. Today, checking connectivity between ECU Pin6 and connectors of Co2, Throttle and Hall, the connectivity is not good enough. Even in Co2 is inexistent. 

I made a cut on the cover in the middle of the wire, close to ECU, and connectivity from here to Pin 6 was good. So I will remade the ugly connector and will see.

😪

5 minutes ago, Bauhaus said:

Those brown/white wires are the sensor ground wires that end up or at least make connection at pin 6 on the G60 ecu, they may also connect to the head although I have not checked this myself, but they must make connection to pin 6.

I'm sure I have a connector like that on my Corrado so it could be factory ?

I asked in VWVortex like Popeye775 said and the first answer said yes it is factory.

On 10/15/2023 at 10:00 AM, Cressa said:

I'm going to say NO. If all of those negatives need a good grounding, they are all sharing that 1 small wire. 

What does a schematic wiring diagram say where they connect and ground to?

You can see the diagram at Bent. pages 264 and 265: Eletronic Engine Controls diagram.

The ground is numbered 94. You got the legend at page 263 and it says: "Ground connections" - 94: in Digifant wiring harness.

Update:

There are a few shorts and I am working on it to fix them all. One of them was green from the ignition coil. The black wire is also very tight/rigid/hard. And I'm going to put in new FLRY wire (not full wire, but that's the worst part).

But, in addition to this, I ran into something that I don't know if it's like that from the factory or it was also another crappy connection because of the Gemini alarm or sound system installed later.

I'm talking about 4 brown-white wires that ends to 94 ground.
Those wires are from: CO2 potentiometer, Hall Generator, Coolant Temperatur Sensor and Throttle Valve Potentiometer.

Here is how is this ground is in my car:

Is that ok? 

16 hours ago, Popeye775 said:

Ok. To me that sounds like there is a short in the wire somewhere. In the harness going to the hall sender, are there any butt connectors that you can see or feel? If there are, this could possibly be the cause of your short. I have had butt connectors fail on me before and after properly swapping them out, everything ran a whole lot better. 

Do you mean something like this:

I will check it, but I don't think so. This car is not in best shape conditions but previous owners they didn't modify too much. The only mod I found related to electric was a old Gemini alarm, that was installed not very well and I removed it and fixed Z1 wire (that one gives power to ECU I think).