joeypineapplez

Ive been away from the VW scene for some time now due to work and kids etc but after a CAR SOS marathon over the weekend Im determined to get my G60 back on the road. Its been idle for almost 5 years now (apart from driving around the yard on occasion). Anyway getting to the point, it failed its NCT (MOT) on knackered brake pipes and lines which is why i took it off the road and never got round to tackling this job. Ive been searching on here for the last hour for info on pipe lines and good but inexpensive flaring tools, benders etc but most of the posts Ive read are years old and most of the links are dead so I was just wondering whats the latest in brake pipe technology as it were. Ive deceided cupro nickel seems to best the best option for me but can anyone give me a link to a decent pipe flaring kit. Has anybody tried this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282619663623?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&fromMakeTrack=true It seems to have everything ill need but is it decent quality ? I dont need anything too fancy as I will only be doing 2 G60s with it. Thanks in advance and links are most welcome as I dont get much time for this sort of thing.

Well I just assummed it was for extra cooling as logically thats what vent holes are for. Im sure theres a thread on this already. I vaguely remember reading about it when I first discovered this site. Im afraid I dont care enough to go searching for it now. ;-)

Forgive me if im wrong but as far as Im aware the only difference between the two is that the G60 grill has a few more holes in it to allow extra air flow through and up towards the charger to aid cooling. I have the VR6 grill on my G60 and I simply cut these extra holes out myself. Its very straightforward. Someone with more knowledge can confirm or deny this.

I forgot to mention the car is used daily so comfort is important. I like the idea of being able to adjust the damping with the Konis so I guess im answering my own question really. But of course the Cup kit dampers are specifically matched to the springs and are cheaper so..............erm. !

I recently purchased G60 H&R 30mm springs (blue) to mate with Monroe shocks that were already on the car. They seemed quite new which is why I left them on but of course as is the way of these things they are badly matched and ride badly. Too much crashing about for my liking. So after reading the Suspension thread (twice) Ive come to the conclusion that I need a VR6 on KW V3s. I know H&R with Koni TAs work well on the VR6 but there isntmuch said sbout the G60. So my question is should I go for the Koni TAs or try to get the H&R shocks that match the H&R springs as in the Cup Kit. Which in hindsight is what I should have done inthe first place. Thank you kindly and any advice is appreciated.

Just sorted mine recently. Had the same sandy noise you described. It turned out to the little brass arm that makes constant electrical contact with the wheel. You will know what I mean when you remove the wheel. The brass arm gets worn and developes sharp ragged edges which make the sandy scrapping noises as you turn the steering wheel. Simply file it smooth again and all will be well.

I replaced mine with engine loom tape. Havent noticed any ill effects but Im sure someone will be on soon telling you to get a new one. Wrap it and see how it goes for you. Nothing lost by trying.

I have 2 G60s one is a 91 and the other a 92. Neither have ABS.

I did this today and yes I did make it sound more complicated than it was. In order to get bolt out I simply removed the bolt that the shifter pivots on. Its got an allen key securing it at one end and 13mm bolt on the other. For anyone doing this job it all becomes obvious when you actually get stuck in. Ive got a slave snd master cylinder ordered. I will also nake up a modified brake line to replace my perished slave cylinder flexy hose. Unless anybody had a better idea. ?

Yeah im moving the shifter. Just wanted to know how. I can see 2 bolts holding it down onto gearbox. As Ive said I only had a quick go at it today. Apologies If im making it sound more complicated than it actually is. I could not remove the bolt despite trying all the gears. Reverse seemed to give the most room but still not enough to get the bolt out. Im physically going to have to unbolt the shifter mechanisim and move it out of the way. I just wish a so called simple job would actually BE simple for once. I understand the VR6 has more room so this problem isnt an issue.

I had a quick go at removing this today but found one of the bolts holding it in place would not come fully out as its path is blocked by the gear shifter mechanism. I know ive got to move this out of the way so whats the easiest way to do this. There seems to be 2bolts holding it down to the gearbox. Is it a simple case of removing these and moving it enough to wiggle the slave bolt out.? Im going at this tomorrow and I dont want to damage anything by being ignorant and ham fisted. Thanks guys.

Yeah I purchased the white clips recently. The tubes are obsolete but I made my own from heat shrink. Worked perfectly well.

I had to make that same decision recently. I went for the center silencer as mine has had the CAT removed. Im glad I went for it because theres nothing worse than a droning exhaust. Its only a few quid more that the straight through pipe and the so called performance gain is negligible. I just fitted it today and only went for a quick spin. Its knocking on rear axle so I will have to have to juggle it around a touch more. First impressions were good. Ill post again after Ive had a nice long spin tomorrow.

Ok thanks Yan, I see what you mean now. So If I ever deceide to upgrade the dampers in the future I guess I should stick with H&R dampers to match the springs. ? Or possibly bilstein B4s. ? In hindsight I should have gone all in and got the H&R cupkit.

I know that certain mk4 golfs came with a spacer on the shock. Think it may have been for heavy duty applications I cant quite remember. I think it went between the spring cap and the bearing. Anyway if anybody has Etka they can confirm. Dont know if it would fit the corrado or indeed if there is a specific version available for the corrado. Apologies if my reply is vague but thats all I can remember about it. ---------- Post added at 10:55 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:51 AM ---------- Just reread your post and realised you want to raise the rear. The spacer I was on about is for the front. Maybe there is a similar item for the rear. Again somebody with Etka can confirm.

Yandards I ordered G60 (H&R 30mm) springs today before I saw your post. I was planning on putting them on with the Monroe dampers (non sports) that came with the car as they are quite new. Perhaps getting Koni TAs in the future. So you say G60 H&R springs with the Koni TAs is a horrible mismatch on the G60 .? Sorry I am new to the Corrado scene I'm more used to Golf GTIs. I read the whole "What suspension" thred and felt at the end that H&R with Koni TAs was the way forward. Apologies if I've misunderstood you.

Nobody spare 5 mins with their measuring tape.? ---------- Post added at 11:38 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:36 AM ---------- wait that sounds wrong doesnt it.?

To jump on the back of this thread http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?78825-H-amp-R-Springs-on-late-VR6-Pics Can any G60 owner running H&R springs please measure the ride height (from centre of wheel to lower lip of arch) And if you have any pics that would be nice but measurement more important to me as its hard to judge with pictures. Thanks

They are sealed along the side that runs down by the door. The rest of it is held on with bolts. The sealant can be a pain to cut through. It's awkward and hard to find the correct "line to cut". However if your dumping the wing you are removing then you don't have to be too careful and can cut/pull the sealant as you go along. It will become obvious when you tackle it. I did both mine and didn't find it too hard. Just be patient and make sure you have removed all the bolts first as there are 1 or 2 hidden ones.

Someones done the same thing to mine only they shoved a screwdriver into it and clamped it. I never got round to finding out what it was for. Its been like that for ages, your thread has just reminded me about it.

Can someone please tell me the ride height (from centre of wheel to bottom lip of arch) of a G60 as it left the factory. I've been searching a while now and can't find a definitive answer. The best I've come up with so far is two different numbers 360mm for late corrados and 340 for early G60s. Is this accurate.? My car came with aftermarket springs and I have no idea how much they lower by obviously as I have no starting figure to go by. Its currently at 320mm I'd like to raise it about 20mm which if my figures are correct take it back to standard (got standard springs thrown in with the car). If the correct figure is 360 then I'd like to get some H&Rs to get nearer my ideal height of 340mm Any help appreciated.

Ok thanks David. I had a feeling it looked too easy. I dont fancy removing the column just for that. Maybe I could cut the boot, slide it over the column, glue it back together and push into place.?

My car has had a steering rack replacement by a previous owner however whoever carried out the job forgot to replace the steering column boot (the bit that covers the hole in the firewall as the column enters the engine bay) and of course as you can imagine its a noisey affair without it. Ive got a new boot now and Im wondering whats the best way to replace it. Most of my dash panels are out at the moment (another job) so by looking at it it would seem that i can undo the 13mm bolt where the steering colum joins to the UJ and seperate it enough to slip the boot on. I can then push it through the firewall to where its ment to be. I have removed the 13mm nut and bolt but the column shows no sign of seperating from the UJ. I have tried gentle force. Should I man up and give it more welly.? Theres also a spring there that looks like it might be a pain in the dick to fit back on. Any advice welcome before I soldier on and make tramp jizz of it.

Ive not done this yet as Ive had no replies to my question. I guess ill have to just bite the bullet and visit my local windscreen fitters and see what they say. But I know its going to go a little something like this, Me: "hello I need a new screen for a Corrado" Windscreen Fitter: "whats a currada.?" So you can see why I prefer to have all my info before I give a job on my car out to someone else. (by the way Im from Ireland and Corrados arent all that common over here)

As above really. Im getting a new screen soon and just want to make sure I have all my info because I know its an awkard job and I want it to go as smoothly as possible. Ordering anything from my local VW dealers requires 2 trips and at least 3 days (or 2 weeks if it has to come from Germany) so do I really need them or are the fitters just going to chuck them in the bin when Im not looking. Any advice is welcome. Ive done everything else myself so I get all jittery when I have to had a job over to someone else. Thanks. Oh and when I was removing the old screen I found these in the glue. Did they come from the factory like that or is it only when fitting replacment screens.?