mikehiow

any suggestions on what/where it's disconnected, and the easiest way to get to it?

I'm having a few issues with my heaters, Firstly when the dial is set onto windscreen, there is no air being blown onto the screen at all, as far as I can tell. What does happen however, is get very very hot behind the stereo, so much so I couldn't hold the stereo when pulling it out. This is another issue, the stereo doesn't seem to fit properly, is there a restriction of the depth of a stereo that can be used? Lastly, I'm not sure if it's related, but I can't seem to select front vents only. Any help/advice would be much appreciated, Cheers, Mike.

If I've missed something somewhere, please forgive me. I'm a Linux Sysadmin/Web Developer by trade, I think the wiki is a fantastic idea, and one of the most innovative I've seen on any car forum I've previously frequented. I understand it's not always convenient or possible to find the time to get everything done, so I'd like to offer my help, advice, services to aid getting the wiki back up. I can even take a bit of load off the forums, and host the wiki if required - who ever is responsible for it's up-keep, like I say, I'd love to help and see it going again - if you'd like the help, PM me for an email/msn/phone number :)

I have a Corrado VR6, I may have misread the offset, it was just at quick glance in the dark. I was planning on getting 45 profile tyres tbh, any recommendations? I'm after something with a good "bang for buck" (ie. Something that performs well, for a decent price) - They don't particularly have to last long - just until I'm in a better position to buy better tyres :) (and after having to buy a new coilpack today, now isn't that time :( )

Should I be using on 16" wheels? The tyres supplied with the car are 55 profile, and scrub quite badly. Wheels are ET7.

Yes, I did it in the dark, the four good terminals had good sparks, the bad ones had none - being a shared/wasted spark setup, I tried grounding each lead individually (as well as trying with different leads) to rule out leads/plugs. As if one lead/plug of a pair can't ground, the other won't spark either.

I did a bit more investigation this evening, I tried grounding each "faulty" lead with a screwdriver, and got nothing but the most miniscule spark when rubbed against a grounding point. Down to VW tomorrow for a new coilpack :(

I think It's looking more like spark than fuel/injector, as the middle leads almost certainly are not sparking. I'd had been snowing yesterday here, quite bad - I drove in it when it was really bad in the morning (on route to have tracking/4WA done), drove it back from this fine - it was later on in the night this happened - the ground was wet, but I'm not aware of any puddles I went through.

I've just been out to the car again to investigate. The knocking, as far as I can tell certainly isn't top end, and sounds more like it's from the gearbox area. Oil level has returned back to where it was previously (just a bit over minimum). However, I tried unplugging each lead from the distributor/coilpack on the side of the engine. The middle from both top and bottom rows makes no difference, where the rest, when unplugged cause the engine to almost stall (I plugged them back in before allowing this to happen). I didn't pull the leads off the plugs to test for spark, as I saw no easy way of getting them back in properly, is there a "method" to this? The two middle leads from the coil appear to correspond with the top left, and bottom-middle cylinders (if standing at the front of the car).

Did you have any luck solving this? It sounds quite similar to an issue I'm experiencing.

Could you kindly explain how that would cause the effects mentioned? If it was that, and what I'm looking for when checking it?

Evening all, after a 10 minute spirited drive this evening, I noticed something strange, the engine/exhaust note went very deep (and "gurgley", almost tractor like) and the engine felt very sluggish. I crawled the extra mile home - and opened up the bonnet, there appears to be a slight knocking noise and the oil is down to about 4mm showing on the dip stick (it wasn't this low when I bought it a few days back) - edit: an after thought, that was immediately after stopping, a lot of oil would have still been around the engine - this may not be a cause for concern? Now, it sounds a bit to me like not all cylinders are firing, but I've no experience of a V/VR engine - so not entirely sure - if it isn't firing on all 6, would this perhaps cause extra stress somewhere resulting in the knocking noise I'm hearing? Could it purely be a lack of oil, and a top up/change may fix? My first thought was perhaps the big ends, but I'm not sure that'd give the "tractor" sound, would it? Plus, the knocking sounds very precise, and not rattley like I'd imagine big ends would? Oil was reading at around 103c, water at around 90. Any help/advice would be much appreciated!

Yeah, camber seems to make sense; I had very limited tools this evening, so didn't bother with the camber - I managed to track it out, it's drivable now, the garage that done it will have to substitute towards 4WA/Tracking I think.

Went for my MOT today, which passed after a CV boot, however, now the wheel where the cv boot was done is about 10deg toeing out. I can't see any reason why they would have needed to touch the trackrod, is there something else that could have factored in to this? The car will be going back to the garage to be sorted, but it's unsafe to drive back there really, I'm going to attempt to straighten it up myself, could just use a little heads up.

As I've said before, it looks awesome now. It'd be interesting to get my standard one next to yours :grin:

Is there any particular cut off date between ODB1 and 2? Mine is on an L plate, and appears to have the "Late" dash clocks with the Corrado lettering? Any ideas?