DaveVR

I'm thinking the original theory of corroded terminals/connections may be the issue with mine. After I messed around with opening it from the passenger side, it then miraculously started working from the drivers side. I came to it later on and it had reverted back to only opening from the passenger side. It's back home and in the garage now so it's not of paramount importance, just another 'quirk' to add to the list of jobs to fix on this thing!

Thanks for the responses. I initially didn’t try the passenger door as it has a mish mash of locks on it, ignition key different to drivers door etc. I had it in my head that neither key worked the passenger door lock but I remember wrongly, turns out the drivers door lock is the only different one so the ignition key worked the passenger door lock. The central locking works perfectly from the passenger side so luckily I can at least get into it. It also means the drivers lock is most likely the issue, weirdly since I opened it from the passenger side, the drivers lock now works on the key but purely mechanically stand alone (without pump noise etc). It means I can get into it without having to climb through the boot but I’ll still need to sort this out. Are we looking at a drivers door lock fault or a pipe off?

Hi all, I’ve had a search and found that Corrado central locking systems seem to be temperamental at best but haven’t found much info on my particular issue. I’m currently away in the car, locked it outside my hotel and now the bugger won’t unlock. When I turn the key to unlock position the pump sounds as normal but there is resistance against the key (it won’t let me turn it all the way) and the lock pins in the doors rise slightly but are then sucked back down. If I keep pressure on the key, the pump sounds multiple times until I stop. I can unlock the boot manually so I managed to get my luggage out but I need to be able to get into it. Any initial ideas as to why it’s doing this? And also is there a way of disabling the central locking so I can manually open the doors on the key for now until I’m home and can have a proper look at it? Thanks in advance.

I'm unable to check the part number of mine because the loop has snapped off! i just have the stub left which I can grab with a p[air of pliers. However, it is red but visually looks more like the orange later type on VW Heritage (it has the seal on it and not the ribbed section as per the red one on there). It seems the later one has sold out now as well so I can't buy it anyway!

Ok so my chassis is WVWZZZ50ZSK000267 so if the Z is to be ignored mine is after the chassis break as S is later than P, is this correct? If that is the case I should have an orange one and the one fitted is wrong, unless it has an early engine in it. I’m wondering what the difference is, if it’s just the colour then the debate is erroneous, i don’t see why they should be different lengths but if they are, that’s a different matter.

I’m looking at buying a new dipstick for my VR6 because the top loop has snapped off. What is left is a red piece I can just grab with pliers which isn’t ideal. On VW Heritage there is an option of two, one which has a red top and one with an orange one, my assumption is they may be different lengths? My plan was just to replace with like for like but there’s a chassis break given, before 50-P-009-001 is red and after is orange. Reading my chassis no the letter after the 50 is Z which i assume is after the break, then there’s an SK which i assume is ignored, but the numbers are 000267 which would be before the break. Which one takes precedence? I’m aware the car may not be on its original engine and so the like for like thing may be the best bet, or perhaps it doesn’t matter at all and they’re simply different colours?! Any advice appreciated, thanks in advance.

Thanks for the info. I might just use standard hose for now to get it back up and running and through its MOT and then search for the genuine items. Keyo, that last link you have put on takes me to one of the hoses which is still available (Hooray!)and if I search the part numbers it says the other isn't available (boo!). Weirdly the ebay link is for a tailgate damper or something! I suppose they will probably pop up on German ebay from time to time.

I am currently looking for the two rubber fuel hoses that run from the bulkhead to the fuel rail on the VR6. I was recently informed VW still sell them but alas they were dis-continued in 2015 and 2016. I know I could make my own if I wanted to but i'm after the original moulded shape in the first instance. Must be in very good condition i.e. not chopped down/frayed etc. If anybody has any, please drop me a message. Thanks, Dave.

How recently did you buy them Kezbo? I had a look on the website and couldn't find them, even in the out of stock section.

Thanks fendervg, yep theyve been shortened already so time for a replacement. Depending on cost, if they're still available I may go for this due to the pre-shaping (looks better imo).

Thanks Bauhaus, the theory on this sounds about right. As I say, it's not necessarily a 'hot start' issue. The car was parked up in the show grounds at about 9:30am and we left at around 12:30-1pm so not hot at all but not enough time to cool to stone cold with the current weather. The car often gets left in the garage for months at a time without starting and when I come to start it, it spins over maybe three times and fire up no problem so it definitely doesn't smack of a supply issue to me.

Thanks for the info Jim. It was more hope than anything that the issues are related but like you say, it does seem like a supply/pressure issue. It's just strange that it only does it in those circumstances.

Hi all, Had an issue with the VR recently whereby it starts on the button first thing but after a decent run and being left for a while it spins over for far too long and struggles to start, appearing to suffer from from fuel starvation. When it eventually fires it struggles to pick up revs/misses for a second or two then is spot on from then on. It did this yesterday on leaving retro rides gathering and when it did fire, it stunk of fuel. Popped the bonnet and found the fuel line onto the rail leaking at the clip where i noticed it is splitting. As it warmed up it stopped leaking (probably making a seal when expanded). It looks a bit knackered as though somebody has chopped it down in the past to stop the same issue so either way it needs new. My two questions are; 1. Is there anywhere I can still buy genuine under bonnet fuel lines (bulkhead to rail) - did a search on here but seemed to be people mostly asking about aftermarket stuff? 2. Can the starting and the leaky line be linked? I've been trying to work it out and all I can come up with is that it may be struggling to build up pressure. It's a strange one because it never does this from cold, is fine when running and when putting my foot down? TIA, Dave.

Thanks for all of the help guys. I’ve now sorted it by putting two new water proof fuse links in and 2 new relays. It does need further work to neaten it up and I also want to water proof the relay pins somewhat but for now they all work and it’ll get through the MOT.

A few pics...

Ok so a bit of an update. Finally got chance to get in the garage to have a look at it tonight and found a couple of issues with it. Firstly, the fuses were ok but one of the relays is goosed due to some serious water damage. Secondly, the loom that is on it appears to be a bit of a DIY job and the wires out of the relay to the headlamps are crimped together but one of the crimps had broken meaning only one side is being fed. It looks like the whole thing needs a bit of an overhaul. I was tempted to just buy a full loom but on inspection the loom looks to be spliced in to the original headlight wiring. Does anybody know whether the original wiring from the switch to the lights has a block connector that you simply plug the aftermarket loom into? The reason I ask is that I hear they are plug and play aside from the live and earth but both of my headlights appear to be hard wired with no block connector along the line. This does mean that the sidelights work even if the headlights/main beam circuit goes down but also means an aftermarket loom would be pretty pointless. My next question is...where is best to buy the gear I need to repair the loom from? I know you can buy the stuff from Maplins etc but I want decent quality and wonder peoples opinions. As far as i'm aware the list of items I need are; 1. 2x 12v 40A 4 pin relays (where can I get decent water proof versions?) 2. 2x relay plates (may come with the water proof gear) 3. 2x waterproof fuse holders with 20A fuses 4. length of 20A cable 5. Various relay pins and crimp connectors Lastly, where is best to mount the relays as part of the problem with mine is that it was just loose under the bonnet! Sorry for all the questions as theyve probably been asked a million times before but any help would be appreciated.

Thanks for the above Dox and swiftkid. I only visually checked the fuses at the testing station as I didn’t have my meter handy and they looked ok but obviously could still be faulty. I’ll check the fuses and relays properly tonight/tomorrow and hopefully get some pics as the setup doesn’t look like any I’ve seen for sale or on here.

Thanks for the replies. It had occurred to me that it may have been an aftermarket loom albeit a poorly fitted one as the relay plates/relays are just shoved down there. I don’t know what a standard setup should look like so was hard for me to say. There is a fused feed directly from the battery along with an earth directly to the battery earth terminal with the wires encased in a plastic corrugated sheathing apart from where they go into the fuse connection and the relays. I will get some pics tomorrow and hopefully shed some light on it (no pun intended).

Hi all. I have an issue that I wonder if anybody can help with. The corrado went for MOT today and failed due to the fact I have no dipped or main beam. The car was locked away in my garage over winter so I took the battery off. I have noticed that in the past the headlight wiring has been messed with and in front of the battery where the clamp is located there are a couple of relays that are flapping around loose and the wiring to them is most definitely aftermarket so I’m convinced the fault lies there. I found one of the terminals had been knocked off by me wrestling the battery past it but they still don’t work with it plugged in. My question is this - I’m fairly new to ownership but have heard that the wiring looms are a problem area on these cars, to that end where can I find a decent wiring diagram to try to sort it? Also I heard of people selling modified looms to sort any common issues, where can I get my hands on one of those or are they obsolete now? Thanks in advance.

Thanks for the responses. It is a strange one but I was hoping it was just a case of the bumper having been replaced at some point with an early version. The car has had paintwork done in the past but no obvious signs of major damage thus far. HPI was clear when I bought it but again that doesn't mean it hasn't had work done off the books. I will have a closer look at the parts and try to get some better pics of the front end. In terms of the interior, it has light coloured cloth interior without the hump in the rear bench. I am unsure on the dash board and what to look for regarding early/late differences. Dox - you're right, most parts seem to be early versions. I would be quite happy with a bumper that needs paint as long as it isn't cracked and I can find good lights for it! Thanks for the compliments. It cleans up well but could be better in areas if you are up close. I like the wheels but they are cheap replicas so will be looking to upgrade to something a bit more special in the future. BTW complete newbie question coming up but what colour is the car? Is it Midnight Blue? In the sun light its blue but almost looks black in certain lights.

Yeah it's a tough one with these cars. They all either seem to be really tidy or breakers, none in the middle like mine. It's both wings but nothing at all on the roof rails which most seem to suffer from. Major job to replace the gearbox on these so even a grand might be a little on the high side for that one. Luckily mine needs nothing major, just smaller jobs to make it a nice car. Wish I had the space to keep it as it's a crying shame to let a car with so much spec go for so little but the corrado occupies my garage now so needs must!

Hi all, Due to the recent purchase of a car I have longed for for some time, a Corrado VR6, I now sadly don't have the time, space or spare cash to do anything with my S3 so it is up for sale. The car has been off the road for the best part of three years and sat in my garage so I'm sure you can imagine it needs some work, details to follow. I bought the car around 8 years ago as a standard car aside from a stage one remap and forge alloy recirc valve. The car is a UK spec European import (came off the same production line as all UK cars but simply entered the country through a specialist import dealer rather than Audi UK meaning the first owner saved a couple of thousand quid on the list price - all the rage back then). This doesn't affect insurance as it is a UK car. Some spec detailed below - 2002 BAM (stage 1 remapped) 125k miles Black leather heated Recaros Rare air con AND sunroof model Rare split rear seats with 3 headrests and 3x3 point seatbelts (not very exciting but rare nonetheless!) Bose system When the car was purchased I was a technician at Audi and so carried out all of the maintenance work myself. There is no proof of the remap but as I worked on and drove these cars every day it is most certainly quicker than standard and the stronger forge recirc valve allied the claim. Anyway, I used the car daily for the next 5 years and then as it started to need work, parked it in my garage with the intention carrying out all of the work which of course I never got around to. As I worked at Audi, I began to accrue some of the required parts which will come with the car In the interest of complete honesty, the below is a list of the mechanical work that I know/ can remember the car needs ABS speed sensor (I have the genuine replacement part to go with the car) Inner and outer CV boot (I have the genuine outer CV boot to go with the car) Snapped rear spring (I have a second hand spring to go with the car) *Possible snapped other rear spring (Not confirmed - just based on how the ride height looks) Tyre condition requires checking (at least needs one) Front anti roll bar is knocking Obviously being off the road for sometime the car would benefit from a service and a cambelt change based on age. Bodywork wise there is the usual rust bubbles coming through on the front wings and the rear number plate plinth, roof rails are rust free. The car does run and drive fine but would need towing away due to the issues above. To go with the sale, I also have a set of TTRS four pot front calipers and discs (discs will need running on a lathe) if I get the price I want. The car is based in Manchester and is available to view any evening this week. Price is £1500 ono. I found it difficult to price as there arent many around in this condition to compare but seeing as there are loads of road worthy examples with bubbling wings going for £2.5-3k I feel this is a fair price. Any questions, let me know. Dave.

Hi All, I am new to Corrado ownership after buying a VR6 earlier this year. I had wanted one for years and finally found myself in a position where I had the space to keep one. It's a usable car that I intend to add to and get up to my standards gradually as I go. After spending some time on the forum it has become apparent to me that there are multiple differences between the early and late models throughout which I did not know about when I bought the car. My car is a '95 model but after looking through some posts it appears to have a mis-match of early and late spec parts that I would like to sort out! Firstly the front bumper is an early version with the fogs sitting deeper into the recess but I'm not sure how far said miss-match goes which is where i need help! My question is this... which parts on the front end are different and how do they differ? I know my bumper is wrong and so the fogs and indicators must be but what about my headlights, front wings, slam panel, bonnet etc? I am in need of new lights and a slam panel anyway but wondered if you need to have all matching parts to make it work. All very confusing! Thanks in advance and hopefully a couple of pics of the car are attached to this post!