gregski

thanks gents for the amazingly quick replies, great picture too, so tell me are the worn shocks causing the bit too bumpy ride for my almost 40 body, or is that how the sporty Corrado supposed to feel, or are the springs responsible for the jitters

Trying to figure out if someone replaced the rear shocks on my 93 VR6 for stiffer ones. They are red, so I am wondering if that's an easy way to tell if they were replaced already possibly if the stock ones were black. The ride is too rigid for me, and I am hoping going back to stock will remedy that. So were the stock rear shocks red?

The intake was greasy at the heater tube location, that's the Positive Crankcase Ventilation PCV valve area. You can see that in the first pic when I flip it upside down to show you it's belly. So I decided to take the opportunity to completely take apart and clean all the greasy intake components, on the kitchen table [ahem] indoor workbench and kitchen sink ie parts washer. I was amazed how well an old girlfriends toothbrush worked with some good ol' dish soap. All squeaky clean with the brand new Idle Control Valve noise damper installed and ready to go back on the car. New Fuel Trim numbers coming soon...

well while checking for vacuum leaks the Idle Air Control Valve Noise Damper crumbled in my hands, it must have been broken already because I am always careful. Also I could not find a missing piece of the lid for it so I assume there was a hole in it already. I have seen posts of guys deleting this pest, so I will bypass it for now, and order a new one from German Auto Parts in New York.

No Sir Dr. Please do not give me that much credit, lol. What full reset sequence do you speak of, I will search the forum for it now, by the way is it in the Bentley manual for I have one of those.

Well before making any further changes, I decided to reset the computer (ECU). So I unplugged the battery for a couple hours and then plugged it back in. Here are the before and after Group 006 Fuel Trim results. Initial Group 006 Fuel Trim (02 Sensor) After Resetting the ECU Group 006 Fuel Trim (02 Sensor) Notice how the after results; Part Throttle Adapted Value and the Full Throttle Adapted Value are at 1.000, that can't be right. How long does it take for those fields to update after an ECU reset?

CLOSED LOOP (aka a Warmed Up) This is what you get when you warm up the VR6 car for 8 minutes when it is 57 Fahrenheit (13.9 Celsius) outside. I say 8 minutes because this is when the Oxygen Sensor decided to roll up it's sleeves and kicked in, closing the loop and beginning to report actual readings of exhaust mixture other than 1.000. I feel letting you know what kind of day it was is important as I'm sure my data would differ on a 104 Fahrenheit day in the summer time, as would yours in much colder winter conditions. Groups 001 002 003 Groups 004 005 006 Of note is the significant drop in RPMs from 960 when cold to 720 when the loop is closed. Eventually the VR6 will stabilize at 650 RPM and what a lovely tune that is. The key is "stabilizes" as their pesky nature does want to rev up and down at times do to a multitude of sensor, valve, and other malfunctions. (The MAF being a primary suspect, as are vacuum leaks.)

OPEN LOOP (aka a Cold Start) This is what you get when you start the VR6 car when it is 57 Fahrenheit (13.9 Celsius) outside. Forgive me I am an European living in United States driving a German car, so I suffer from a bit of Standard Measurement Schizophrenia (SMS) LOL. My car's display speaks; miles, gallons, and Fahrenheit, and the Ross-Tech software speaks kilometers and Celsius. Groups 001 002 003 Groups 004 005 006 Of note are the RPMs which are naturally high at 960 while the car warms up. Also the Oxygen Sensor (ie Lambda Sensor) has not come to life yet, it is not active at 1.000 until the car reaches a certain temperature.

I have spent 2 years looking for screen shots or actual typed up information of what I would get if I bought the Ross-Tech automotive diagnostic software, specifically for my 1993 Vokswagen Corrado VR6 SLC. (Yes I know Ross-Tech on their website has an excellent online manual with screen shots, I know I went through it, however most of our Corrado's are what most would call OBDI (but not really they are Vag-Com) and not OBDII so we don't get half the bells and whistles. The point of this post is to share with you what one would see if you were to diagnose a Volkswagen Corrado VR6 using Ross-Tech VCDS-Lite, (notice I said VR6 and not the G60 four cylinder turbo model, also mine does not have the coil pack). I will show you screen prints of actual data, for both a cold start, ie Open Loop readings, and readings once the car is warmed up, ie Closed Loop readings. First a little background, and feel free to correct me as I am learning as I go. You need a special cable, special software ie Ross-Tech, and a laptop to diagnose your car in this manner. There are three versions of the software. Free version (ie shareware, it does not interpret all the error codes, only some, that's a pain), VCDS-Lite (which is what I have, it shows you all the codes), and the full version (which may be overkill as it gives you controls for OBDII cars that our car does not have, like door lock control, etc, but I haven't used that version so I'm not 100% sure, there may be some things that are worth while, like 0-60 times). Regardless of what version of VCDS you have it will show you "Measuring Blocks" of information in only 6 groups (well technically 7 if you count Group 0) for newer cars like OBDII Jettas or Passats it will show you dozens of groups of information. It does this 3 groups at a time, so no you can not customize the screen to show you all 6 groups on one screen. When I contacted the company technical support they said that the dealers diagnostic tools show you only 1 group at a time, so 3 at a time is that much better, and they don't show you more than that because pushing that much data over the wire would delay/sque the results. (Good enough explanation for me, anyways). WARNING: My car is sick right now, or so I've been told. It is supposedly running lean, so some of the readings may not be ideal, don't go trying to match what my car says, unless specified, just see what is being reported. However if you see a setting that is out of range and perhaps causing my lean condition do let me know, I will appreciate that immensely, that's why I am going through all these diagnostics in the first place. In order to keep this long post short, I will break it up into at least two other ones, one with screen prints for the Open Loop, and a second post for the Closed Loop. Then we can start the discussion.

Thank you all for taking the time to help out. How can I check if the vehicle is misfiring? Also it is the older model so I don't have a coilpack. The dizzy had a broken hall sensor plug on it, so I doctored it up a bit, I wonder if that is the problem. I do own a second dizzy which I bought used, I was planning on replacing mine with it, but I held off thinking why fix it if it aint broken, but now I think it may be. Plan so far. 1. Replace the distributor. Drive and test the car with Ross-Tech. 2. Remove and inspect the black rubber intake boot for cracks/holes. Drive and test the car with Ross-Tech. 3. Install brand new intake manifold gaskets between the throttle body and the second one between the upper and lower intake. Drive and test the car with Ross-Tech. wish me luck, lol

I apologize for resurrecting an old post, but I am just curious if you bought a new Oxygen Sensor and if that made your codes go away, particularly the 00561 - Mixture Adaptation one. Thank you in advance.

guys please answer this question as I have the same error code, the only thing we have in common is that I loosened up the exhaust manifold bolts when trying to jack up the engine to get the mechanical water pump out, (yeah that was before I realized I was supposed to disconnect the exhaust manifold from the catalytic converter) after i was done I tightened them back up and anyways the engine would have moved up 3 inches even without messing with them what we don't have in common is that I also took apart the intake manifold to clean the EGR port and then I reassembled it late at night (needed the car) re using the old gaskets, was that a dumb move, is that what is causing this condition please be gentle as I am learning here

Nope, runs fine. Touche! 00537 - Lambda (Oxygen Sensor) Regulation ..........08-10 - Control Limit Surpassed - Intermittent 00561 - Mixture Adaptation ..........14-10 - Adaptation Limit (Add) Exceeded

I'm getting a lot of great advice here so I will break it up into section as to not miss anything: How lean is it running? - Honestly, don't know. Did the guy give you any indication of Air fuel ratio or CO? - No, technically they are a "Test Only" outfit which prevents them from troubleshooting, he just blurred it out under his breath sort of speak, and inquired if I get good gas mileage. (I believe he was giving me a bit more credit than I deserved, and was assuming I knew what I was doing, and did it on purpose). Is it just at idle it's running too lean? - I don't know, I don't know how to check idle vs running, can Ross-Tech tell me that? Running lean in California is good though :D Did it actually pass the smog test and the lean running was just an advisory from the tester? - Yes, that's the kicker the car was running fantastic, no CEL error codes either. Also the SMOG check is two parts, emissions and EVAP. In my case the car passed the emissions part flying colors, but failed the evaporation part. So techs at both shops were baffled. Turns out the dealership put the rubber O-ring fuel pump gasket in wrong in the fuel tank when my brother took it in a few years back, half of it was dangling down inside the tank. (We dropped the tank, pressurized it a little bit with a bicycle pump with a mickey mouse nozzle adapter, and get this, sprayed Windex window cleaner soap like solution all over the tank, and bubbles started forming around the jar like lid which encloses the fuel pump inside the tank) So I unscrewed it with my hands properly fitted the rubber gasket, screwed the top back on, mounted the tank, drove back in for a FREE retest, and whalla it passed ! I will address the other points in a separate post, and thank you very, very much for the additional follow up questions and advice. I am learning here, I am fairly new to automobile repair.

Hello, I live in California the dark place where vehicle emission controls come from. When I had my VR6 SMOGed the tech told me I am running lean. So I bought Ross-Tech's VCDS-Lite and started looking, but honestly I don't know what "Group" or "Measuring Block" I should be looking at. Just so you know in order to pass my SMOG inspection I had to take the intake manifold off and separate the throttle body and clear out that pesky EGR port, I say this because I put the parts back on reusing the old gaskets, the one between the throttle body and the intake and the one between the upper and lower intake. Was this a bonehead move and is this the cause of my lean condition. (I tried to find the leak by spraying carb cleaner all around the intake boot and intake manifold as well as all the vacuum hoses but the car would not stumble) Also I have a brand new Lambda Sensor (oxygen sensor) since the car threw the code to replace it so I did. The O2 Active seams to be around 1.000 plus or minus .100 Today I replaced my MAF with a used one and readings stayed the same, but I only drove it with the newer MAF for 30 minutes or so. I have no idea what ISV Adaptation means and it is at .984 ISV Duty Cycle % is between 49-59% Idle Adapted Value - 1.967 ( lean ? ) Part Throttle Adapted Value - 1.975 ( lean ? ) Full Throttle Adapted Value 0.797 - - - thank you for reading this lengthy post, I figure the more you know the better you can help me - - -