Pastymuncher

I got 4 new bbs ones when I had my solitudes refurbished about 4 years ago. £9 :shock: each from the stealers.

I doubt whether any case law will give a definitive answer in terms of distance, the cases will most likely just set out the factors to be taken into account - what is "reasonable" will depend on the circs and hence be decided on a case by case basis. Driving 150 miles from the point of sale to an pre-booked MOT centre near home and/or the repair centre may be reasonable, whereas driving 150 miles to an MOT centre, bypassing others, just because your brother-in-law runs it and always makes a nice cuppa while you wait is probably stretching it. Unless there is an obvious safety issue with the car and provided you are insured, I would just drive it - every mile nearer Slough you get before you are stopped , the more "reasonable" the distance left to go gets! Erm....

My aux water pump has been weeping for the last 4 years. As its not a large leak (no water on the floor, coolant levels fine between top ups at service, just a tell-tale green corrosion streak on the unit) I just leave it. Each time it's serviced the dealers put it on the watch list and reccomend leaving it till next time. Now I've said that next time I start it up I'll be pissing G12 through the front grille.

Nearly - I don't think he's a member here but that was my brother's black VR. Standard save for Eibachs/Konis and a footwell of parking tickets (he lives up Smoke). David

Many thanks MysticBlueStorm, I'll get to it ASAP (as soon as I remember what I did with the replacement clip). David

MysticBlueStorm, I have exactly the same problem - I got the clip from VW for about a quid but have yet to get round to fitting it. Any advice on how best to fit it would be appreciated, if you do yours first. If I get round to doing mine first, you can have my 2p worth (I'd assumed you had to withdraw the bowden cable through the bulkhead, but that's as far as I got as the Simpsons was on). David

Hello all, I posted a question a while ago asking for a diagram of the interior bonnet release lever and how it fits to the bowden cable, as my lever has gone all slack and floppy (happens to all of us eventually). I've now had a look and it would appear that a small metal clip has snapped which attaches to the cable and pushes onto the bracket holding the lever onto the footwell. This clip acts to retain the cable outer while allowing the lever to draw the inner through and hopefully release the bonnet. I know some people have made their own bracket, but I've ordered a new clip (£1) and was looking at how its fitted. It looks like the clip will not come off the end of the cable that fits to the lever (which would defeat the object) so I wonder if the cable has to be withdrawn into the engine bay or if some slack has to somehow be put into the cable to allow the clip to the fitted. Anyone have any idea what I'm on about and experience of fitting this? It has all the hallmarks of the classic "it looks like it should be easy but its now been 4 hours upside-down in the footwell and I can't feel my legs " type of job. Please convince me I'm wrong. Thanks David

Hello all, Indoor swimming pool in footwell fixed, missing speaker grill sourced, electric window now working - wey-hey! Aw bums, my bonnet release lever (driver's footwell) is now bust. The lever flops around and there is no spring tension on it keeping it in the normal "retracted" position. From looking at it, it looks like the inner cable is still attached to the lever, but the outer cable is no longer fixed to the lever bracket (I'm assuming the outer stays fixed so that the lever has something to brace against when pulling the inner cable through, just like a brake/gear cable on a bike). The cable outer looks like it should be fixed to the lever bracket using a small metal clip and this looks like it has snapped, but I'm not sure how its supposed to look when its not buggered. Has anyone got the relevant parts diagram that could show me how it goes back together? Thanks in advance, David

HiAsAKite, Sanj, I don't yet know what the problem is I'm afraid - I've not yet got round to removing the door membrane and having a look inside. Just realised it was early December when I took the door card off - all I can say in my defence is I've been a bit busy! As you can guess, I don't use the car that much at the moment. Once I've finished re-grouting the bathroom, I'll put a voltmeter across the window motor just to check, but as Sanj says, I've a feeling its mechanical too. First one to sort it posts the answer! Cheers, David PS - HiAsAKite - just noticed you're in Guildford - whereabouts? I'm down in sunny Godalming.

Don't know about the complete key fobs, but they sold me the replacement batteries for mine which are quite hard to get so I'd assume they do the whole unit too. Then they'll probably want to charge you for synchronising it with your alarm unit, or something, depending on whether its the master or slave unit (I'm making this bit up, but I always assume the worst). David

Dave - I think you'll find that bumper is a prototype of Zarman's (of Dubdesign Industries) intended design, rather than a Reiger product. There is a long thread about its appearance, etc on the vortex forum somewhere. Also offers an explanation of why its lop-sided. David

Cheers Henny, that's what I needed to know. David

No problem Steve - I have a circuit tester at the ready, so off comes the membrane. Horrible feeling its a mechanical problem though, as there are some very faint scratches on the glass too, so I reckon the regulator is not happy. David

Thanks Steve, but do you know if there is a cross-over already there and if so, where ? I only ask as I'll be doing the job in installments (doors, then dash) and want to know if I need to wack the crossover in from the start (and/or whether there is an old one to remove). Thanks, David

Cheers Steve, I've no idea, but I've read some people suggesting that a fault in the membrane can lead to leaks - see several posts in this thread, for example: http://corrado.atx-hosting.co.uk/viewto ... highlight= As I say, my membrane is in perfect condition and I have a dry car - I am worried about disturbing this sitiuation unless I really need to in the light of such posts. Thanks for the advice on the black stuff though, which is indeed still sticky (there is some on the teatowel in the kitchen - shhhh!) - do you know if you can you buy it, just in case? David

As I've got my door card off (see post about a knackered window), I thought I'd replace my front door speakers. I have the original Nokia units and the door unit looks like a component speaker (in that its not a 2-way, etc). I understand that there are also some tweeters in the dash. Does this mean that the original set-up that came with the car includes a cross-over somewhere? I'd like to replace the dash & door speakers with a component set-up, so does this mean I don't need to bother with a crossover ? Even if there is one, am I better off replacing it anyway? Cheers, David

I previously posted for help re the fact that my driver's side window has packed up. No blown fuses and the window controller works (it clicks) and the door attempts to draw power (courtesy lights flicker), but nada. I think I need to look in the door for any obstruction or to check the motor/regulator. Hence I've removed the door card and am now looking at the waterproof membrane. It looks in perfect nick and given the fact that its this that stops the footwells filling up with water. I'm loathe to remove it unless I know I can get it back on again - what have people used to re-seal their door membranes in the past? What about bathroom sealant? Is there any way I can at least tell if its the motor unit that's packed up without removing the membrane? Thanks, David

Sorry Nigel, the :wink: was a close as I could get to a "tongue firmly in cheek" emoticon. Having said that, I sometimes de-clutch on the downhill bits, usually on the motorway when the petrol gauge has gone out through the other side of the red (why didn't I fill up at the last one when I had quarter of a tank left?). David

Bridgestone Potenza S-02 Pole Positions - excellent in the dry and awsome in the wet. Absolutely brilliant (and they look fantastic in black). Have heard they wear badly but mine have been on 2 years and the fronts are still fine. I put this down to the C's sophisticated traction control technology. Now been replaced by the S-03 model (which I've read mixed reports on), so you might pick up a good deal on the S-02s if you shop around.

Erm, it depends what gear I'm in and whether I'm going uphill or not. :wink: 3,000rpm in 5th on the flat gets me to 80mph.

I assume you mean that the a/c buttons no longer light up when you push them in. If you have the std VW switch (which I assume you do, as you are in the US) then the 2 switches/bulb/etc is all in one unit. There is a small bulb soldered into the top of the switch unit which is on all the time the ignition is on - the buttons are mounted on slidable light guides that when pressed, slide up alongside the bulb and so light up the text in the button. From looking at mine the bulb does not look as if its designed to be replaced, but that doesn't mean you can't get busy with a soldering iron. Sorry I can't be of more help.

I agree - looks like I'm going to have to have a look inside the door. I also agree you should check on VAGCOM first, as I had a problem a while back in that the glove box and storage bins kept filling up with cans of fizzy soft drinks. It tasted like 7-up, but it turned out to be Sprites. David

Cheers Thera - you're probably right as it feels as if the car is trying to open the window, if that makes sense. I just wondered if the light dimming is caused by the switch side of the controller operating, but the onward signal sent to the motor doesn't get through. Just hope my car is not haunted too - have you got the part number for VAG's exorcism kit just in case? David

Hello all, I've carried out a search on the topic but as my symptoms seem different from previous problems, I'd thought I'd see if anyone can help. My driver's side window has stopped working. The light in the switch is fine and the fuse (the horizontal 20A above the relays) is OK, which I assumed would be the case if the other window still works, which it does. When I press the switch, the window control unit behind the rear trim panel clicks, the courtesy lights dim momentarily, but the window refuses to budge. I've had a look at the controller and all the plugs are in place. I'm now thinking of three possibilities: a) There is a fault in the wiring between the controller and the motor; or b) The motor is knacked; or c) In the past, especially after washing the car, the glass has stuck to the surrounding door seal. I wonder if this is putting up enough resistance for some sort of safety cut out activating to stop the motor burning out. I've tried slapping the glass, shoving it down while pressing the switch, but no joy. I'm now thinking I need to take the door card off to have a shufty. Is it possible to get to the relevant bits without removing the waterproof membrance, as this looks intact and I'd rather not remove it if possible (I've read the threads about how to turn your footwell into a footbath). Any suggestions would me much appreciated. Thanks, David

Nick, Maybe the way to deal with your girlfriends brother's wind-up attempts is to point out that while you're sure that the CTR is a lovely little car, if you like that sort of thing, the real deciding factor on the road with two models closely matched (yet different, if you know what I mean) is going to be driver ability, so talking about torque, power bands, etc is a waste of time, but you're happy to do it if it's therapeutic for him. You could then point out that it can't be a coincidence that the better driver of the two of you has chosen the Corrado. Cream rises to the top. :wink: You've been lovely, I'm here 'till Thursday, Goodnight. David