deanpompey

I also had split breather, but that was removed when i fitted the power rohr intake, now just has a straight piece of tube there with sensor in, and the smaller tube furthest forward is blocked off. i dont see that that would cause my issues now :shrug: i have got my hands on a spare MAF, ISV, TB and coil, so some testing to come today!

ok so i picked up my VR6 on thurs eve, 94 L reg 2.9 obd1 VR6. she drove sweet from cold, but then once it warmed up a bit it would cut out when clutching coming to stop. Then sat in traffic jam on the m25 it would hold its idle at around 650rpm, but when you pressed throttle revs would drop and car would stutter, then as soon as stopped again it would die. (nearly killed the battery i had to start it so many times :( ) Yesterday it developed a missfire under load, initailly just at 3k and above, but now it does it at any load at all. with the car in neutral there is no misfire at all. I vagcommed her, and got the following: 00537 - Lambda (Oxygen Sensor) Regulation: Upper Limit 00525 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor (G39): Signal too Low / Implausible Signal / No Signal 00540 knock sensor 2 00553 Mass Air Flow Sensor -G70 Short to B+ intermittent 00518 Throttle position sensor (G69) Signal Outside Specifications - Intermittent from this i assumed the lambda was screwed, so unplugged it. then went for a drive and got the following: 00525 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor (G39): Signal too Low / Implausible Signal / No Signal 00540 knock sensor 2 none of the other codes came back, after many clears, and lots of drives. 00525 is obviously because the lambda was disconnected, so that will need replacing, 00540 knock sensor 2, is this the sensor on front or rear of engine? i ask because i disconnected what i think was the knock sensor on rear of block (grey plug), and when i did this vag com brought up the fault code for knock sensor 1, and didnt bring up knock sensor 2. i think there is a slight blow at front of exhaust somewhere, possibly the downpipe/cat flange, so could this be causing the Lambda to be all over place? i dont know where the lambda is positioned, it has a 6 branch stainless manifold, but i would assume it would be in same position? if it is in front of cat then perhaps this could be causing the lambda to go mad, resulting in engine running too lean, and knock sensor detecting pinking??? that make sense to anyone??? apologies for long post, but have been reading a million and one VR6 misfire threads and with no joy, so wanted to get all the facts in so you lovely people might be able to help me out! cheers!

Have a fiat coupe 20vt for sale if you fancy one.....

anyone have pics of a rado on 9's all round? preferably with ofset of around ET15 / ET10?```

its an early valver. fronts are 7.5 Et 30 tyres 195/45/16 rears are 7x 9 Et15 tyres 205/45/16 fronts are ( i think ) catching on the coilies, so gonna need a spacer (to be fair the 7.5's look lost in the front arches anyway so no prob there!) rears i had to raise up a good 2cm, and are still catching :( Arch roller being put to use ASAP! gotta love this though.... :)

picking up some Borbet A's tomo in 7.5 et20 and 9 x 16 et15. car is on coils so can be raised a touch if necessary, currently down around 80-90mm on 15x8j et 25 Th Monos with no rubbing issues etc, but not sure what ill need to pull off the A's. cant confirm tyre sizes until tomo... anyone have these on their Rado an wanna give me a clue?

id have a punt at that if i were you. the guy also trades on ed38 at his normal fee of £330, and provides flow rate figures etc, which is more than TSR do! in fact, he even made a statement on ed38 that he guarantees his heads flow better than TSR items, and can back it up with all the figures.... sounds like win win to me!

id stick with KR cams over ABF ones imho. Converting to Kjet is simple enough if you use a KR head!! ;) either way the 9a can be run on kjet without any major hassle :)

as much as everyone does have a valid point about the vr being a better lump, he doesnt want one, so why still go on at him?! He wants to rebuild his valver, so why cant we give him some HELPFUL advice about that instead of telling him to buy somethin he dont want! Buying an ABF mk3 and swapping the whole lot over is a good suggestion, however if it were me id still want to rebuild it so i knew it wouldnt go pop anytime soon. if it were me, id buy a p&p'd KR head and cams, you can get one for little money and rebuilding a head is easy enough and cheap enough. then either rebuild your (im presuming 9A) bottom end, or try and find a low miler in good condition. bolt it all together, chuck on a 4-2-1 stainless manifold, and 2.5" straight through exhaust, k&n panel filter and power rohr intake pipe, ported TB and you should be around 165bhp. if it were me id run it on kjet fuelling, and have it set up properly by stealth or the like (gods at playing with kjet imho)

yeah that bit is easy enough mate cheers

kinda clear, but a diagram would be better! :) i was gonna relay the positioning lights anyways as mine are crap. can that not be done then? i was assuming that mk2 golf headlight plugs are same as rado, in which case a and b would go to the same pin on the plug. ill find and upload pics tomo to show you what i mean, if your diagram doesnt put me on right track :lol:

so the pin on headlight plug that has the two (side/dipped) beam signals can just be joined and connected direct to the relay signal pin as per standard headlight plug and one relay plug can earth, or do i take both to diff pins on relay and earth from headlight plug? im finding it hard to explain what i mean :?

yeah i understand that bit. the one relay etc comment was for quicky. but a H4 connector has 3 pins, not 4, so im guessing its the current passed through it that dictates 1st/second filament? so would this still be applicable to the relay situation, ie: 1 x d/s low beam AND sidelight 1 x d/s high beam 1 x d/s fog 1 x p/s low beam AND sidelight 1 x p/s high beam 1 x p/s fog OR 1 x d/s Sidelight 1 x d/s low beam 1 x d/s high beam 1 x d/s fog 1 x p/s sidelight 1 x p/s low beam 1 x p/s high beam 1 x p/s fog ??

One relay per beam means that if a relay dies or a fuse goes, you lose both lights, not good if you happen to be hooning down a country road at the time! :gag: im cool with the headlight plug wiring, its more what i can relay thats proving difficult. The relays are OE Hella 12v 40A Relays (number 18 as used in mk3/4 golfs, audi a3/4 etc) part number is: 4RA003510-58 i think i prob will relay the sidelights (positioning lights as you call them :) ), simply because i can, and everything else will be! :shrug: the whole side/dipped thing has got me wondering though, will i have to splice into the wires behind the plugs to run them off seperate relays or can i still just use one relay? anyone got diagrams for me to ponder?? cheers

Right, i decided today to build myself an uprated headlight loom, and am happy enough with 90% of it, just having a bit of bother getting my head round some things... pin numbers/uses - have seen diagrams in various places giving the pins and what they should be, but have seen some conflicting ones....am i right in thinking the following: Pin 30 - Battery live Pin 85 - Earth Pin 86 - input Pin 87 - output Also, am i right in thinking the H4 bulb uses the first filament for sidelights, and second/both for dipped beam, and the inner H3 bulbs power main beam? im assuming that i lose the dipped beam when the main beam is on, can i wire it up so as they both work at same time? i am also going to relay my fogs, should i use one relay for both of them, or one relay per fog? and can i relay the sidelights too? as i see it i need the following 2 relays dipped beam 2 relays main beam 2 relays fogs ???2 relays sidelights??? Sorry for all the Questions, have made looms for mk2 golfs before but only ever 2 relay looms for dipped beam! this is bit more challenging for me! Cheers

ok so i bought some audioscape pods at the weekend, fitted them but the window winders dont clear em!!! :censored: so now i have to make shortened window winders, or fit electric windows, neither of which i particularly can be arsed to do :brickwall: anyone know of any stock winders that are shorter and will fit straight on?

haha now thats dedication! i think ill just have to learn where the potholes/speedbumps are and avoid like the plague! will be better next year when i get some monos in 16x8s and 9s, ill have an extra inch of clearance to play with then! woohoo!

my problem is it happens more on the motorways around here (which i have to use everyday) and is slightly unsettling when sump makes contact with floor at 70mph+.... if its steel already then ill just strip it down and weld on a 12guage plate. but its kinda swings an roundabouts, cos if i weld on a thick plate it will be closer to the damn floor so will hit more often! :confused4: I dont even class my car as particularly low, i have about an inch between splitter and floor, and as im runnin 15s theres a bit of arch gap which i would dearly love to get rid of, but if i do then every damn thing will be hitting the floor .... guess its one or the other, stance OR practicality....

anyone have any info on these? Took the 17s off and put my rado on Th Monos (8x15) and now instead of just smashing the splitter, im twatting the sump... :roll: could i just buy another sump and weld on a plate? im assuming thats basically all thats involved? anyone have any other ideas? cheers

back away from the budget coilies! my C is on 17s with 205/40/17 rubber, and wound 3/4 down on the ebay special coils, ride is harder than bruce lee! Looks awesome, but handling is sketchy at high speed on corners etc, only takes the slightest bump to really throw you off! unless you have a habit of picking up hot women with huge boobs in tight tops, and can drive whilst looking constantly at the pass seat, imho its just not worth it! only reason i aint swapping mine out is cos im saving for a G!

ok so i took everything apart yesterday (isv, TB, breathers, metering head) cleaned it ll up, and has made a slight difference. But, still boggy at start up. new (correct) isv going on next week, so hopefully that will help. Mate had a look at her today and he reckons she's running lean, yet id swear it was running rich to be so boggy?

ok so 5th injector was already disconnected, and plugging it in made no difference. mate has one somewhere in his shed so that will be replaced soon enough. ISV is not the proper one. it is a concoction of what i think is a mk1 1.6 gti isv, and some random volvo hoses! Got a KR ISV off mate, just need to chop the correct plug back onto it and see if that helps. think it will, cos when i disconnected it there was no difference at all in the way it ran, except it took longer to settle at idle.

cheers guys. doesnt strike me as ISV related,hence my post. generally when iv had isv problems the idle at all revs is off, however once this has been pegged a bit it runs sweetly. I will however whip it off and soak it in petrol for bit see if it helps. dodgy injector is something i didnt think about at all as it runs awesomely after initial period, but way you said it, would certainly make sense, something to look into. i'll disconnect 5th injector and see whats what with that/ any more ideas?

ok so my Rado 16v is an absolute bitch when you first fire her up from cold. she starts on the button, but really really struggles to idle unless you give it some revs. when you do give it some revs it bogs down quite badly, and feels like it misfires maybe. it wont clear on its own either, doesnt matter if you keep revving it, it stays the same. Its only once you actually drive it, and give it some in first/second a few times that it actually sorts itself out. once it does, there is no more hesitation during acceleration at all at any revs, hard or gentle on the throttle. The only other thing is that when coming off the accelerator, she can feel a bit juddery, but not in an engine mount kinda way, almost feels like she's being starved of fuel if that makes sense? Only problem i am actually aware of on the car is that the downpipe is blowing quite a bit, but dont think that could be the cause of either really? anyone have any ideas on these? will be giving her a full service next month, but just wondering whether it could be metering head related, fifth injector etc ? cheers dean

Reg is H834 XRB... just after some general history on the car and info on whats been done/when/by who etc as i, nor the previous owner know much about it. any info be great. cheers