Corvr6

It seems to me that just about any one or more major sensor can be faulty giving rise to missfires/flat spots/lumpy idling and the ECU will mask the problem with a slightly less than perfect style of performance. :mad: Without VAG COM (OR EXPERIENCE) to tell you conclusively which one it is, a trial and error approach to sensor changeouts would be very costly/frustrating and foolish IMO. :wink: Therefore I am "off to see the wizard" at my local VAG. :) They have offered me a free quick download,or£40 ish for a detailed printout. 8) I will update this post on the findings.

This post has been edited due to hindsight I have noticed a missfire since my Head gasket/timing chain tensioners replacement carried out by Stealth,I'm not pointing fingers I just want to fix the problem. 8) My Ignition leads were arcing at the plugs,so these have been replaced. The coilpack looks ok,and is not arcing under a mist of water. The thermostat was sticking open,so this has been replaced. Checked Temperature coolant sensor(steady reduction in resistance as temp rises) ECU Reset. Once up to operating temp (+80'C) I can pull the MAF connector and she carries on idling after a tiny increase in revs,but doesn't cut out. Incorrect Method :oops: Lamda sensor unplugged! With the MAF connector replaced, the Lamda Sensor reads 600-900 mv when idling,and 900 mv at any other rev range.The supply voltage is 14v. If allowed to idle again the voltage starts to drop only fractionaly,eg,after 10 seconds of idle voltage would still be +850 mv. Incorrect Method :oops: I pulled the plug out of the socket to do this reading,should have measured it with the plug still in :oops: Correct method; 8) 1)Supply voltage present. 2)Connector must stay connected and multimeter probe should be inserted into the top of the connector on the signal terminal(The terminal that is isolated from the others). Then the reading should cycle from 0-1v on anything but full throttle or high RPM Full throttle/high RPM reading should be a steady voltage between 700-900mv Correct method; 8) Following test wasn't relevant after realising my mistake :oops: If I disconnect the Lamda sensor connector and the MAF, the voltage drops very quickly to less than 100 mv from 900mv in about 15 seconds and the engine is trying to stall,so I reconnect the MAF and the revs come back up at the same speed along with the voltage. So can't really ask this question either Does this suggest conclusively that the MAF is faulty,I presume that the Lamda sensor is doing what it should? :?: Always do this first If not then I will find a garage with VAG-COM and get the errors read,and proceed from there. 8) I have just read in the manual before reading the DTC the following should be carried out; Perform a test drive of at least 10 minutes during which: 1)Coolant temperature must exceed 80'C(176'F) for 3 minutes minimum. 2)The accelerator pedal must be completely floored breifly at a speed in excess of 4600 RPM. 3)There must be acceleration at half throttle for approx.4 seconds in 4th gear from a speed of roughly 30 mph.

Right,thanks for the clarification. :) I have yet to carry out your suggestions,it is quiet when cold and pulses when warm. I have been running some other tests today instead and I think I have fallen prey to the Mad As F**k sensor :mad: which is more probably the cause for the missfire. Once up to operating temp (+80'C) I can pull the MAF connector and she carries on idling after a tiny increase in revs,but doesn't cut out. With the MAF connector replaced, the O2 Sensor reads 600-900 mv when idling,and 900 mv at any other rev range. If allowed to idle again the voltage starts to drop only fractionaly,eg,after 10 seconds of idle voltage would still be +850 mv. If I disconnect the O2 connector and the MAF the voltage drops very quickly to less than 100 mv from 900mv in about 15 seconds and the engine is trying to stall,so I reconnect the MAF and the revs come back up at the same speed along with the voltage. Does this suggest the MAF is faulty,I presume that the O2 sensor is doing what it should? :?: I have pulled this info on the EVAP valve from this post http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=520 Carbon Canister Frequency Valve (N80) The ECU determines the duty cycle of the frequency valve to regulate the flow of fuel vapours from the carbon canister to the engine. When no current is supplied to the valve, it remains in the open position. The valve is closed (duty cycle 100%) when the cold engine is started. Triggering The Carbon Canister Frequency Valve (N80) begins to operate after oxygen sensor operation has begun. Valve operation is load- and speed-dependent during driving operation. The valve is completely open at full throttle and completely closed during deceleration fuel shut-off. Substitute function If power to the valve is interrupted, the valve remains completely open. This could lead to rough running at idle speed and during partial load acceleration. Self-diagnosis The ECU recognizes open circuits and short circuits in the component.

Thanks for the quick reply and part no's. Which part no refers to which valve?

Mine has a regular clicking sound and you can feel it vibrating when it clicks, I'm sure it never used to. It is shown in the manual,but not really explained at all. :? It is located under the MAF connector, I would suggest it links the carbon canister to the intake manifold. I am changing it, anyone else had to? Is it possible for a faulty valve to cause an irregular missfire? I have checked or replaced, New plugs (During head rebuild-Stealth) New Ignition leads(Magnecor 8mm,used metal tool to install) Checked Coil pack(Used water spray test at night,no visible cracks either) Checked Temperature coolant sensor(steady reduction in resistance as temp rises) EDIT I don't think the engine was up to operating temp when the following 2 tests were carried out,see new post below. :oops: Checked Oxygen sensor(less than 100mv @ idle,approx 700mv@3500) Checked MAF(Wouldn't start when disconnected) EDIT Reset ECU(Disconnect battery for +15 mins) Any other suggestions appreciated before I take it to local specialist to get the errors (if any)downloaded.

Just done a quick search on GSF,price is £117+vat+del. :( There doesn't seem to be a choice of makes though. I too have a misfire,just changed the leads for magnecor 8mm to resolve it,no joy. The only crack I can see on my coilpack is at one mounting bolt,none around the connectors,have done a spray test in the dark,no sparks. When idling there is an intermittant miss,but not really any noticeable loss of power when gunning it. :? Is it ok to remove one lead at a time to try to isolate a cylinder?

Ran another test tonight and compiled the past data, WITH SLATS SPEED = 60 RPM =2500 COOLANT = 90 OIL = 110 SPEED = 70 RPM =3000 COOLANT = 90 OIL = 112-114 SPEED = 80 RPM =3250 COOLANT = 90 OIL = 116 I will be removing slats from grille,but agree there is probably some additional work required here before I am totally satisfied. The oil cooler could be clogged, I understand they have a kind of mesh in them,judging from how Stealth described the state of my oil filter it might be worth a change out. I see they are about £30 ish from GSF or £50 ish from Stealers. Well the slats are out and they definately do make a differance,average 6'C drop in oil temps, NO SLATS SPEED = 60 RPM =2500 COOLANT = 85-90 OIL = 104 SPEED = 70 RPM =3000 COOLANT = 85-90 OIL = 106 SPEED = 80 RPM =3250 COOLANT = 90 OIL = 110-112 Now have the Mocal oil cooler fitted by Stealth,what a differance it makes. Also replaced the oe oil cooler at same time,(why not,only £30 approx) Using the same format as above now my temps are; SPEED = 80 RPM =3250 COOLANT = 90 OIL = 98-100 Watch out beemers,not backing off after a couple of miles anymore! :twisted: some pics of the grille.Oil cooler and fitting to follow.

Just made another trip out tonight and oil is sitting between 112-114'C cruising at 70,coolant constant at 90'C. I will cut out slats at weekend,and check again,but not too concerned. As I mentioned earlier when the warmer weather draws nearer I will consider the oil cooler approach. Thanks for your replys.

Cheers dr,I have just finished reading some of the posts on the forum regarding oil temps and agree is not too bad based on the consensus. My front grille is of the later variety with closed slots,guess what I will be doing this weekend... :evil: I will be leaning towards the idea of an oil cooler as the summer draws nearer me thinks. 8)

To refresh your memories I have just had this work done; :lol: Valve guides/seals replaced Valves reseated/replaced as nescessary, cam followers replaced, gasket and reskim I presume. Timing chains and tensioners replaced. Clutch replaced and noticed this problem; :? After starting from cold, I have checked the temperature of the upper and lower pipes and both are getting warm at the same time whilst the temp gauge is only at 60-70'C. The heater is working fine and is getting hot as usual.It will rise to 90 when idling and then the cooling fan keeps it there.Mpg = 20ish. which suggests I do this; 8) Replace Thermostat. and noticed this problem; Now the coolant temp is sat at 92'C but the oil still sits at 110-112'C when cruising at 60 mph.If I open her up the oil temp just goes up even more.Mpg=29 When the thermostat was stuck open the oil temp would keep below 100'C but the mpg was crap due to the coolant temp I presume. Can anyone suggest a reason for the high oil temps? :mad:

Thanks, I'll pass this info on and see if it is enough.

I wonder if anyone knows the VAG part no. for the Hazet lead tool,as my dealer won't sell to the public full stop :mad: and the garage that is trying to get me one needs the part no. so they can order one. :roll: It may speed things up if I can pass this info on tomorrow. New leads coming next week. :)

I take it your C/L dosn't operate the boot lock,does your key turn in the lock or is it not even turning(like mine,C/L working on mine though). You could try wd 40 on the locking mech behind the barrel,and in the barrell for that matter. :)

As sad as it may be,I have just checked through the 21 pages of problems for a more viewed post, and well there ain't one.So it's definate,there are a lot of C's with "wet carpets" out there. :wink:

No probs.

I had same problem,didn't fancy having to rethread cable every time a clip broke :mad: so I made a mod for it. Check out this post. http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... et+release It's still working! :D

As long as you are confident there are no gaps by using that method to apply the sealant ,then the combination of pipe lagging seal and sealant should keep the rain out.When your ready try a hose pipe over the windscreen test,having pulled back the front carpet enough to see/feel for "fresh" water running down inside.Should be none. The manual suggests the seal should be water tight,so if it aint,it will happen again!

Unfortunately I am unable to test the sound proofing at the moment because the car is off the road due to a split CV boot. :mad: If your car "sounded" ok with the rotting compost that was your old underlay(like mine),I'm sure you could put lettuce leaves down and it would be an improvement. :) You can see from my pics that the original front section can be increasd to cover the sides etc,So If you use a decent capet underlay you will be ok. You should still be able to reuse the underlay backing,see pic. TIP:Cut the rear underlay to the same size as the backing,due to the seat rails. Hope this helps. :wink:

Blower only working on speed 4,this mod worked for me. http://website.lineone.net/~quigger/heater.htm

Thanks for removing dead post, VR6. Well I have completed the job,and fitted carpet back in car. As promised I have some more pics and some tips. TIPS 1)Allow at least 12 working hours(not including carpet drying time) to complete this job,starting from "oh no,there are Koi carp in the rear footwell to Karmann would be proud of me". :) 2)Check the weather forecast for next few days,or use a sheltered place. 3)Use some good quality knee pads,about a fiver,will save your knees big time. :wink: 4)When cutting the new underlay,it would be easier just to use the old backing as a template,so that you leave at least an inch of space inside the runners for the seat to move easliy.I used 2 layers of underlay which has given the carpet a slightly raised look. 5)Grease the seat runners if nescessary before refitting seat. 6)Special tools required,common sense,patience,time,understanding partner,warm clothes,knee pads,determination. :)

I have edited my earlier post to make it a little clearer,because I wouldn't want anyone to think I reused my old rotting and heaving underlay :pukeleft: :oops: :pukeright: , I am going to use good quality household carpet underlay maybe 2 layers thick. Pics later today hopefully. :) **Mod Edit: Double post removed for you. VR6

When you say they are bone dry,I presume you are saying dry to the touch? They may feel dry to the touch after a couple of days,mainly because the carpet itself is quite thin and dries quickly,but the soundproofing underlay was about an inch thick when it was laid and this sits underneath some thick leathery piece of material.I had to scrape the wet underlay off the hard piece as it just falls apart when wet/rotten. I would bet your actual floor pan is still wet. :wink: See pics, previous page

Dig cams rule,oh and lucky SOB. Part 2 After fixing a leak I reccomend removing and drying your carpets because they won't dry with just the heater in the winter. :( After removing the passenger seat(1 bolt),and plastic carpet trim from door,I was able to remove the whole carpet,sound proofing an all. Had to cut through the rubber seal that joins the floor pan carpet to the rear seat carpet,using a stanley knife. The carpet was wet,but the sound proofing underlay was rotten and smelt it too. :pukeright: EDIT I have salvaged the hard backing off the sound proofing underlay and will use ordinary carpet underlay (2 layers maybe) with the hard backing to pad out the carpet again. EDIT I have scrubbed the carpet and its hanging out to dry. I've dried and cleaned the floor pan,then ran the hose over the whole car starting low moving higher and so far not a drop has seeped in. :lol: :thumbleft: By the time I refit my carpets,I will know if the rain has found other untested entry points. :| EDIT It rained most of last night,still totally dry inside :D ,I will fit carpets as soon as they are dry. Done the blower mod whilst in bits,now all 4 speeds again. :D http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... 1328#61328 EDIT Here are some more pics.

A couple more pics

Me too,wet passenger footwells front and rear. :mad: I pulled back the passenger footwell carpet and sound proofing to verify a source of water entry as the top left corner above the blower. Opened the bonnet and carefully removed the plastic covers over the air duct mesh cover. Filled a hoover bag with leaf mulch and crap :shock: ,used plenty of wet wipes/tissue to clean any remaining crap,then removed the air duct mesh cover. The seal was soaking and was obviously not sealing anymore.I could see water runs heading into the blower,I am amazed it still works. :? I made another seal from some adhesive foam pipe lagging,cut to shape,twice the thickness of the old squashed seal,but thinner at the mounting ends compared to the sides.Reason for this is so you can get clip to work,some experimentation is required,or just buy new seal. 8) When you have your seal correct,run a bead of exterior sealant all the way round it before you fit it back in place. CAUTION: :!: I practiced many times refitting the mesh before applying the sealant so as not to smear or rub it off when fitting for real. :wink: I only used an average bead width(size of household plug fuse)in a continuos run.I used more at the mounting ends and corners.If you use too much you risk it dripping onto the blower fan blades(not good),so be careful here. Replace all covers and allow to dry before getting it wet or moving car. This job could be a 2 hour or a 2 week fix,depends on your own circumstances,need to be patient with this. Now part 2,about to start this myself after finishing this post. Remove all carpets passenger seat and soundproofing, clean it and hang to dry somewhere,whilst drying look for other sources of leaks,I'm sure there are some! Here some pics Ihope they help. :)