Corvr6

Agree, after starting from cold, I have checked the temperature of the upper and lower pipes and both are getting warm at the same time whilst the temp gauge is only at 60-70'C. I guess it really does need a thermostat which is a shame as its just had new coolant fill. :( I suppose it could be the original thermostat in which case a new one would be about due. I've also got a noticeable missfire due to 2 arcing ignition leads(they are originals and probably should have been replaced long ago) and a (edit)cv boot seal (cable ties :roll: ) has come loose and has a nick in it :mad: (edit) and dumped its grease all over one of my wheels/brakes. Its not coincidence that these additional maintenance tasks should just appear after a large amount of work that is previously undertaken,I realise that nothing is black and white when it comes to maintenance and this is just the "fine tuning" stage. :) May all our "fine tuning" stages come to an end, one day! :lol:

Cheers dr, any one else?

Before the work was carried on my motor,I was getting a constant 80 degrees coolant temp whilst cruising,now it is more like a constant 60 degrees rising to 70 if I run it hard. Manual says thermostat opens 80'C closes 105'C. The heater is working fine and is getting hot as usual.It will rise to 90 when idling and then the cooling fan keeps it there. I know this cold weather helps to keep the motor cool and the use of G12+ helps as well,but isn't 60 degrees a bit too cold,bordering on the "thermostat stuck open" kind of thinking. :? I'm not knocking a cool running engine if its truly running this cool,any one with similar temps or had thermostat problems? :?: Pulled this from the manual if any one is interested: 8) Coolant fan switching temperatures; Low speed ON: 92-97'C OFF: 84-91'C High speed ON: 99-105'C OFF: 91-98'C Coolant run-on switching temperatures; ON: 101-107'C OFF: 94-100'C

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What's on your clock? The manual suggests 1000k(600 miles) / litre.If you are really getting 5000 miles / litre then I am amazed! I have noticed an instant improvement in coolant and oil temperatures. Before the work I was regularly hitting 110 degrees when cruising at 70mph. Coolant was always constant at 80 ish. Now the oil sits at 96 degrees when cruising at 70 mph. The coolant is just off the needle at about 70 ish. I will just have to wait and see how many miles /litre I get,but will update this post when the oil hits the min mark(1 litre).

http://www.stealthracing.co.uk/ That's the website link for anyone interested,they do more than just repairs. It wouldn't be fair to disclose the total bill as some of the additional work was discussed after the initial price was given,but I think the the 3 main items are a reasonably set price,Head job,timing chains/tensioners,clutch. :wink: Head job includes; Valve guides/seals replaced Valves reseated/replaced as nescessary(additional cost if replaced), cam followers replaced, gasket and reskim I presume. Timing chains and tensioners replaced. Clutch replaced. I paid £1250 inc VAT for all that. :D I also had aux belt tensioner,new plugs,Uprated front engine mount at additional cost. Give them a ring for a price,each job will vary I suppose. 8)

Aux belt tensioner pully was about £75 fitted.I'm not gonna quibble with that considering what I've spent on the rest. :wink: Yes, Vibratechnics.You have the same :?: The first thing I noticed was how easy the clutch was to operate,was stiff before. Accelaration has improved and low end torque is slightly better,but I didn't expect to see any real performance increase as I wasn't really lacking any before the job oddly enough. :) What I do expect to see is a vast improvement in miles / litre of oil, and no puffs of smoke after idling and overrun. Worst case of usage was about 2-300 miles / litre of oil,Magnetec 15-40. Stealth have used Synta silver which they said is about 10-30,if theres any piston/ring wear this oil should find it,time will tell. :roll: The peace of mind and convenience of having this work done all in one go and by professionals outweighs the costs for me(and the potential costs of not having it done). :D

Got the CVR6 back from Stealth today,so much for taking little steps,just as well I took it in judging by what they found. It went in for Head rebuild/timing chains/clutch. 8) I suppose its fair to say I could have still driven around without having the work done as the only downside I could see was the oil consumption.:mrgreen: :roll: They tell me the Valve guides and seals were totally shot and so bad so they had fouled 2 plugs completely.The tensioners were just about down to the rivets. Thankfully I am told my pistons and bores are not scored,this may down to taking it in when I did.The oil filter was clogged and it needed new plugs due to the fouling I took the oppourtunity of having the front engine mount replaced for an uprated one,they also had to change the auxillary belt pulley as bearings were noisy. I also got my Samco hose kit fitted,looks good.:D I have some of the worn parts, and plan to take some pics of them this weekend. :wink:

Try this post for more info,G60bv. http://corrado.atx-hosting.co.uk/viewto ... sc&start=0

My alarm stills goes off but only when it freezes outside. :( I suspect a switch is contracting in the cold somewhere,I don't suspect the ultrasonics as they only trigger when waving frantically in front of them. Has anyone else had similar problems with their alarm on freezing nights?

I Didn't use MSN,dog and bone works for me :) Still think the group buy is a good idea,if any outlet is prepared to do it with a reasonable discount,if your prepared to wait the 6-8weeks,you can get the colour of your choice. Should be considered as preventative maintenance,hoses at the ready for when one bursts,so you don't get caught out and burnt by the stealer. :x OE Hose to heat exchanger cost me approx £37 inc vat. :mad: Samco kit £265 inc vat.(7 hoses) :D

Well.....thanks Tony.It looks like It's my lucky day.Awesome have a 10 piece kit (blue) on its way to me. :D Apologies to anyone up for the group buy,(Phatvr6),from what I can gather Samco take forever to receive stuff from :mad: ,so better have the patience of a saint,and not really need the parts but just want them. :evil: My patience span = 0 :twisted: Thanks again.

Definately,assuming xmas dosen't come early this year and I don't get some in next 2 weeks. I know blue is the most popular colour,but they are available in all,for eg green,purple,yellow,red. If we could get enough discount on seperate colours and not just blue that would be great too. :D

Thanks but tried 6-8 weeks :( Xtreme motorsports 6-8 weeks :( Jondel 6-8weeks :( AMD waiting for call back edit 6-8 weeks :( Thanks,Do you mean the hoses that connect to and from the heat exchanger,if so I have already just replaced one anyhow and they are not that near the oil filter :? ,if not these I am not sure of the ones you refer too

Can anyone reccomend an outlet,that might keep a full kit "on the shelf",preferably in green,as most places I've contacted say 6-8 weeks delivery.If I can get them within a couple of weeks I can get them fitted whilst the heads off. :wink: Thanks in advance

Well I have been running my VR with its new suspension for a while now and on factory settings for the alignment.The handling is vastly improved whilst cornering, more so in the dry.When wet the car tends to understeer a bit. Straight line running is smoother,less twitchy. Might try -1.5 after 1K miles I am now using 1 turn for the front and just half a turn for the rears,whilst the roads are wet/icy and not ideal for hard settings,it also softens the ride for laid back motoring,untill the summer. :evil: Additional info for intested parties: :wink: The shocks are H&R 30mm lower,new £138.06 inc vat. I aquired them from a forum member who fitted them with oe shocks and removed them soon after to fit coilovers. The suspension is Koni TA all round,new £360 inc vat/del. Bought from Xtreme.

Ditto here,went for the passenger side blade also 1J2 955 425 A (that fits on the driver side arm), £10.66 + vat,all available Tuesday. Arrived Tuesday,fitted and working well at 105mph 8) Tip:After removing old blades,use a stanley knife blade to clean the splines on the rotors before fitting,this gives the new blades something to bite into.It is also important to get the new blade positioning spot on before tightning down,then I found myself using a socket wrench to tighten the nuts down. Don't over tighten though. :wink: otherwise :cry:

I have just had my 4 – wheel alignment done,set to factory standard.Front cambers were both out of spec before alignment.I realise the suspension may need some settling in so plan to get them realigned in about 1K miles. Its too early to say if these are the best settings for my particular set-up,so I will just have to test them out. Current set-up as follows for anyone interested; 30mm Lowered H&R springs Koni sport TA’s all round. 17” Imola 215/45 tyres

Got my VR back from the garage today,H&R's and Koni's fitted,adjusted as stated above. I was pleasantly surprised to find the ride comfort had not disappeared. :D The ride is firmer and potholes are more abrasive but the ride is ok.Good roads are still comfortable.The now negligable sway/roll coupled with rail like cornering has given me the confidence I was looking for in my VR. :twisted: I am getting 4 wheel alignment done tomorrow,and will probaly get it checked after 1k miles to allow for settling. Looks awsome too,will have to get some new pics done now. Thanks goes to Kev for advice and inspiration for me taking this path. 8)

Bolt part no. N 101 740.01. The Bentley manual reccomends changing this out if the factory settings cannot be achieved after replacing the suspension.They also reccomend changing the lower bolt if the top one alone is not enough.The differance is the new bolt is thinner allowing more movement. They don't reccomend adjusting the camber by moving the ball joint in the control arm. I can't seem to find a "smug smiley" anywhere.The manual does give you a super natural feeling of greatness.30% discount at the moment. http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/de ... 15-9180026

I am having H&R's/Koni's fitted at the moment.Is that 1.5 turns the front and back or what?

My Bentley manual arrived today and I can confirm the data in this link is accurate for the VR6 only.It is differant for 4 cylinder engines.MAF and geometry settings

I have just received my Bentley manual and can confirm that your data for wheel alignment is correct for the VR6, 4 cylinder engines use differant data. :!:

Thanks m8,I don't think any components have been changed,so I'm sure I have an air lock.Car is having sports suspension fitted today so will ask them to fit the new seal and remove air lock. 8) Edit(better late than never) Leak actually fixed by fitting new VW seal in black plastic housing on top of rad,the rubber seal is slightly bigger than the generic size 3mm the garage used(3.1 or 3.2mm I think) Edit