Corvr6

+750 miles.The braking is excellent compared to oe,for example my oe used to fade under heavy braking now the braking becomes more intense as the pads seem to work best with a little heat in them.They are better than oe from cold too. Brake dust is minimal now as they are fully bed in,though they seem to be still improving. For fast road use I would certainly reccomend them. 8) Will post back +1000 miles.

I have ordered the service manual from amazon.Cost works out to about £60 got 30% discount on it. :) Maybe if I knew what I was lookin at I'd have half a chance of solving it. :oops: I'm not too mechanically minded,so I'm more likely to do more damage than good without knowing some basics. :mad: £60 is peanuts compared to the damage I could imagine myself doing. :wink:

It seeps from the black housing on top of the rad not the hose.Am I to understand the black housing that the top hose connects to holds the thermostat?I wonder if the garage replaced it? :shock: More info: The cooling fan comes on when the temp gauge reads 90,it used to be much higher before it came on. The electric cooling pump starts up with the ignition on from cold,although it dosn't sound too healthy,like the speed is varying? It dosn't come on with just the ignition when its warm,is that normal? The top rad hose gets really hot,while the lower rad hose only gets hot when the cooling fan has kicked in,sound normal? I just haven't had the car long enough to get really familiar with its workings. :oops:

After a cooling fan change on my VR recently my coolant system developed a leak,I was p****d as it had a new rad in april this year(before my ownership though). :x It's seeping through the join where the small black housing fits onto the top of the rad.I have taken it back to the garage who changed the cooling fan,they tried fitting a new seal and using some quick drying sealant to help.The seal held during the initial warm up,but after a few days the seeping is back noticeable when cold. :cry: I now have a VW seal and will get this fitted tomorrow,to see if this will stop the seeping.Any suggestions to help make this water tight appreciated. :crazyeyes: The coolant level seems to stay just above the min mark.It used to hit 110 if I ran it hard and then start to cool back down,but the temp gauge does not rise much above 80 now however I drive it. :? I have also noticed a few drops of oil on the gravel. The electric cooling pump is working as coolant can be seen returning to reservoir. :| Could it just be an air lock thats got in through the seeping join? :? or something more sinister? :shock:

Another spot in P'boro.Don't see any for a month then 2 in 2 days. N595 ***,along Bourges Boulevard about 11 am,burgundy colour. Moving in the opposite direction,so no detail,was it you :?: :)

:D At last my first chance spotting of one,in my home town.Only a month after ownership. K308 ***, midnight blue(almost metallic),along westfield road,today at lunch time.Considering it had been raining,looked like you'd just finished waxing it.Clean motor. 8) VR,G60 or what :?:

I have recieved the replacements,all looks well. :) I just need to order my bump stops and mounting kits and then dig a little deeper into my pocket to get them fitted. :shaking:

The box they came in meant they could be stood on one end or laid flat,the front struts faced in opposite directions.If stood on its end then this ties up with the leaker.I suggestedto the reseller they mark up the boxes "keep flat" or round the ends,but they said it just shouldn't leak(3 seals...blah,blah,blah). If the new ones leak,they'll go back again!

As well as a leaking front shock,the rears didn't have a fitting kit in the box,I knew this because it had been clearly hand written on the box,"No fitting kit" :lol: The company involved are going to swap the whole kit,either tomorrow or Friday. :) I can't blame the reseller as they say they came straight from Koni

My Koni TA's have just arrived but one of the front shocks has leaked some fluid :( .Its on the stem and in the box.Its not really alot but its definately come from the shock. Is it still ok to fit,or should I be looking to get a replacement :?:

I'm sure I will,thanks,but the art is being patient enough to do it in the most cost effiecient way.Little steps I guess. :wink:

Well I can't see any drops of oil under the car or hanging off the sump area.It has done just over 107K,it has a FVWSH,which should authenticate the mileage,so I'm not even thinking block/pistons.Possibly rings,possibly some head work,most likely valve guides.I will make some enquiries when I call in to my local garage tommorrow,thanks.

I have amended the title of this topic to reflect a more accurate usage of oil in my case. :( The service manual says 1000Km/litre(approx 600miles/litre),I have done 900 miles since I got my VR and used about 3 litres of oil.....300miles/litre! :shock: Considering I have occasionaly had a puff of smoke on hard acceleration,without loss of power,then I am concluding my problem lies in the valve guide area,or even just the type of oil. My plan then: :wink: Step 1,I have changed to topping up with 15/40,and if no improvement then I will try 15/50. Step 2,Valve guides. Step 3,I don't even want to consider a step 3,but wonder if there any other seals that could or should be changed along with the valve guides :?:

:shock: It's a small world I too had a Mk2 GTI 8v,with spax adj allround,15" tsw stealth venoms,handling was superb if a bit harsh.My only regret was not upgrading the brakes. I was just pleased it went to a good home. Here's a pic for nostalga, :cry:

If your going to the trouble and expense of fitting new discs to improve your braking,then why trip yourself up at the final jump,for a few quid,better to hang on until you can afford it.What's a few weeks waiting compared to months of annoyance because your brakes didn't bed in right on your old pads and have now F****d up your new discs. :mad: :wink:

Well I am +300 miles on my newly fitted EBC discs and green stuff pads and will admit I have been treating the brakes very lightly up to now, not even normal braking,so I plan to start braking normally up to +500 miles then I will consider some later braking tests. :evil: I can say up to now they are superior than my oe,although effective from cold seem to bite harder when warmed up.I am getting some brake dust as I am still bedding in,hope this reduces by +1000 miles. There is no sqealing or other high pitch sounds but you can definately hear the breaks working compared to the oe,this is probably due to the grooves. Have to say they look great also. :D Will post back +500 miles. Just updating now after +2000 miles,and I can definately say they are a reccommended combination,stopping power is great,still better when warm which suits my style of driving to a tee,brake dust is negligable,no judder,did squeal a bit after a cv boot split throwing grease everywhere but seems to have cleared up abit now. :D

Well I am +300 miles and will admit I have been treating the brakes very lightly up to now, not even normal braking,so I plan to start braking normally up to +500 miles then I will consider some later braking tests. :evil: I can say up to now they are superior than my oe,although effective from cold seem to bite harder when warmed up.I am getting some brake dust as I am still bedding in,hope this reduces by +1000 miles. There is no sqealing or other high pitch sounds but you can definately hear the breaks working compared to the oe,this is probably due to the grooves. Have to say they look great also. :D Will post back +500 miles.

I've done it,made my own bracket and it dosn't mean rethreading the cable through the circlip,and works well for a first attempt. :D EDIT (Reworded for better clarification) There should be an xl attachment with this post showing a crude but self explanitory right angled bracket. I say self expanitory but unless you have had a circlip go it won't mean squat to ya. Basically the bracket consists of a 2mm right angled alloy/steel the same dimensions as the plate the circlip attaches to, then a horizontal slot is cut in one side for the cable to slide into, a 4mm hole is drilled through the other edge of the bracket and plate and they are held together with a nut and bolt.Part of the broken circlip was still attached to the cable this actually helps I think so leave it. You can pm me if anyone needs more details. 8) END EDIT

wow, thats much better than mine,what's the viscosity of synta or quantum silver? Maybe the thin oil I'm using is just slipping past my valve stem seals or even the rings :(

I am using Castrol GTX Magnetec 10-40. How does that compare with "vw synta silver"?

Phew, thats not so bad then,panic over, thanks all :D

If its Kilometres then its not as bad as I 1st thought. I would guess that they are the same,but would be worth confirming. I would still be interested to know how much oil it takes to fill from the Min to Max marker on the dipstick,if anyone knows.

My VR seems to be guzzling oil,I've not had it long so it might be the norm :? There are no leaks or droplets of oil on the sump,I have noticed the odd puff of smoke occasionaly if I floor it about 3500-4000 revs,but only occasionally. I'm sure I read somewhere that vw suggest 1000miles / Litre,I have estimated I'm getting 300miles / Litre. Does anyone know how much oil it takes to fill from the Min to Max marker on the dipstick, :?: this would be easier and safer than using the gravy mixing jug (missus has a mean back hander). :)

After tugging followed by swearing and more tugging I have managed to open the bonnet. :D I can't believe VW have used such a flimsy circlip to cope with the huge tension in the two bonnet release springs :shock: ,didn't think I'd hear myself say it but its totally underengineered :cry: If as it looks to get another circlip on its means rethreading the inner cable,then I will think about designing my own bracket that just slips over the cable.Watch this space. 8) There also seems to be some metal tubing(looks like old brake piping) running between the two release springs,this has more bends in it than Snetterton :) ,think this may be the reason I'm not getting enough tension on the drivers side spring.(could this be enderengineered part 2). :mad:. I suppose the rest of the car being excellently enginneered just about evens things out. :wink:

Yes it is that circlip :!: Is it a VW part :?: I will try the same method,cheers m8 :D