sleeper16

VR6 | Black magic shwarz | Durham Price: Description: Hi, The time has come to sell my corrado VR6 i have owned the car for about two years now. The car is a 94, Brilliant Black Metallic LA9V Black heated leather interior Lpg conversion done and recently serviced in january Engine was serviced at end of january 2013 with new plugs,oil and filter and aux belt. it has a carbon air filter i think its a magnex exhuast on (not sure on this but it has some aftermarket stainless exhuast on) it had new leads last year the blue (performance??) leads New coilpack Lightened Flywheel (hotgolf one) working heater controls! working Fog Lights!! after market foglights and indicators Lamin-x Lights all round Flat aero Wipers on lupo/TT arms Spoiler works correctly! Coilovers fitted with new top mounts and bearings Toad AI 606 New clutch last year. dvd cd player with ipod cable and SD card reader with built in handsfree that works through the cars speakers. eyebrow spoiler. Pressed plates Rh Zw1's (need tyres) but will include original wheels and tyres Some previous history: 2009 New Rad Service Abs Sensors Service 2008 New dampers Service 2007 Service Leads Fuel filter Plugs 2006 Service oil service Cylinder head refurb(stealth racing) Cam followers timing chains Service New Rad 2005 Clutch Slave cyclinder Pads and discs Service~ 2004 Pads oil change wheel refurb oil change water pump oil cooler discs and pads Oil change 2002 plugs and leads as you can see the car has been well looked after in its past, it has around 190K miles but has only done about 50k since the head refurb so should be good for a long time yet. I gave the car a service when i bought it at the start of 2011 and have barely used it (just around town and short motorway journeys about an hour at most) Engine is really quiet and super smooth which id expect after being treated so well.It is very strong pulls well and the car sounds fantastic!!! The bits that need attention: sunroof was swapped to a moonroof and it kept leaking so it has a bit of silicon around it to keep it water tight for now (still got the original solid steel panel to fit to the fully working mech) needs Tracking doing Paint work needs some attention here and there some bits blowing in. i recently fixed some scabs around arches and on bonnet just used solid black to get it protected it can hardly be noticed but to make it nice and shiny it would need blowing in in the correct colour. Currently working on paintwork to tidy it up. Replaced the rear bumper a year or so ago and this also needs painting as its just solid black. Currently no tax Full years test £1700 with RH ZW1's £1500 with Audi flat spokes £1400 with old five spoke

All parts now sold Cheers

VR6 | Black magic shwarz | Durham Price: £1600 with wheels £1300 without Description: Hi, The time has come to sell my corrado VR6 i have owned the car for about two years now and i need something that i dont constantly want to buy things for, or get ideas about increasing power etc lol. The car is a 94, Brilliant Black Metallic LA9V Black heated leather interior Lpg conversion done and recently serviced in january Engine was serviced at end of january 2013 with new plugs,oil and filter and aux belt. it has a carbon air filter i think its a magnex exhuast on (not sure on this but it has some aftermarket stainless exhuast on) it had new leads last year the blue (performance??) leads New coilpack Lightened Flywheel (hotgolf one) working heater controls! working Fog Lights!! after market foglights and indicators Lamin-x Lights all round Flat aero Wipers on lupo/TT arms Spoiler works correctly! Coilovers fitted with new top mounts and bearings Toad AI 606 New clutch last year. dvd cd player with ipod cable and SD card reader with built in handsfree that works through the cars speakers. eyebrow spoiler. Pressed plates Rh Zw1's (need tyres) but will include original wheels and tyres Some previous history: 2009 New Rad Service Abs Sensors Service 2008 New dampers Service 2007 Service Leads Fuel filter Plugs 2006 Service oil service Cylinder head refurb(stealth racing) Cam followers timing chains Service New Rad 2005 Clutch Slave cyclinder Pads and discs Service~ 2004 Pads oil change wheel refurb oil change water pump oil cooler discs and pads Oil change 2002 plugs and leads as you can see the car has been well looked after in its past, it has around 190K miles but has only done about 50k since the head refurb so should be good for a long time yet. I gave the car a service when i bought it at the start of 2011 and have barely used it (just around town and short motorway journeys about an hour at most) Engine is really quiet and super smooth which id expect after being treated so well. The bits that need attention: New rear discs and pads and a handbrake cable (one included with the car). now fixed. sunroof was swapped to a moonroof and it kept leaking so it has a bit of silicon around it to keep it water tight for now (still got the original solid steel panel to fit to the fully working mech) needs Tracking doing Paint work needs some attention here and there some bits blowing in. i recently fixed some scabs around arches and on bonnet just used solid black to get it protected it can hardly be noticed but to make it nice and shiny it would need blowing in in the correct colour. Currently working on paintwork to tidy it up. Replaced the rear bumper a year or so ago and this also needs painting as its just solid black. Needs a new bonnet cable ( i have machined new cable clip and trumpet end for a new cable though). now fixed. needs new fan control unit. Now replaced. Engine is very strong pulls well and the car sounds fantastic!!! Currently no tax or test but will be putting it through test over next couple of weeks so will have a full years test. [ATTACH]74922[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]74923[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]74924[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]74925[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]74926[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]74928[/ATTACH]

Got someone interested in the tyres or two of them anyway so could do the wheels on their own for £500

well your welcome to make an offer and if i have no luck with the sale i might consider it, just dont want to recoupe as much of the outlay as i can. Cheers

hi mate i can post, yeah tyres are no use to anyone really they need changing to fit a corrado, but its still £600 as thats what i paid without tyres one of my mates just had those big tyres spare so give me them for temporary fix but i have no use for them so was including them in the sale. I can have them removed and postage is £28 so its not bad. Cheers

heres some close ups. They also come with the shallow heaad bolts for the adaptorss so just need your bolts to bolt the wheels to adaptors. hope they are a bit better, not alot to see with them really they have a couple of small nicks on one or two of the lips but nothing big, and then just that bit on the front one where i hit a pot hole included a shot of the nackered tire. they need a good clean to be really posh, and for show wheels would need new lips, but for everyday car some small tires on they will be perfect. Cheers ---------- Post added at 1:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 1:00 PM ---------- also just checked they are ET60 and 8J

Yeah come with the genuine adaptors, based in darlington north east. will get some close ups. would rather sell complete to avoid having anything laid around. cheers

yeah too small on the S3 shame coz i do like them wheels. yeah tires are a bit big just what came on them when i bought them. ideally i would of gone to 205's or 215's. Cheers

got a set of RH ZW1's that i had on my corrado. they are 17" 8J i think and ET60 i believe. The right size for corrados anyway once you use the 20mm adaptors. they have 225/45/17's on one will need replacing as it lost against my arch before they were rolled and has a bit of a chunk out of it! other three are fine loads of tread left on. one wheel (drivers side front as seen in the picture) hit a bump and when the lip got nocked back got a bit of laquer peel on the lip nothing serious tried them on my new car but i dont think they suit it. £600 collected can post at buyers cost.

VR6 | Black magic shwarz | Durham Price: £1600 ono with wheels £1300 without Description: Hi, The time has come to sell my corrado VR6 i have owned the car for about two years now and i need something that i dont constantly want to buy things for, or get ideas about increasing power etc lol. The car is a 94, Brilliant Black Metallic LA9V Black heated leather interior Lpg conversion done and recently serviced in january Engine was serviced at end of january with new plugs,oil and filter it has a carbon air filter i think its a magnex exhuast on (not sure on this but it has some aftermarket stainless exhuast on) it had new leads last year the blue (performance??) leads New coilpack Lightened Flywheel (hotgolf one) working heater controls! working Fog Lights!! after market foglights and indicators Lamin-x Lights all round Flat aero Wipers on lupo/TT arms Spoiler works correctly! Coilovers fitted with new top mounts and bearings Toad AI 606 New clutch last year. dvd cd player with ipod cable and SD card reader with built in handsfree that works through the cars speakers. eyebrow spoiler. Pressed plates Rh Zw1's (need tyres) but will include original wheels and tyres Some previous history: 2009 New Rad Service Abs Sensors Service 2008 New dampers Service 2007 Service Leads Fuel filter Plugs 2006 Service oil service Cylinder head refurb(stealth racing) Cam followers timing chains Service New Rad 2005 Clutch Slave cyclinder Pads and discs Service~ 2004 Pads oil change wheel refurb oil change water pump oil cooler discs and pads Oil change 2002 plugs and leads as you can see the car has been well looked after in its past, it has around 190K miles but has only done about 50k since the head refurb so should be good for a long time yet. I gave the car a service when i bought it at the start of 2011 and have barely used it (just around town and short motorway journeys about an hour at most) Engine is really quiet and super smooth which id expect after being treated so well. The bits that need attention: New rear discs and pads and a handbrake cable (one included with the car) sunroof was swapped to a moonroof and it kept leaking so it has a bit of silicon around it to keep it water tight for now (still got the original solid steel panel to fit to the fully working mech) needs Tracking doing Paint work needs some attention here and there some bits blowing in. i recently fixed some scabs around arches and on bonnet just used solid black to get it protected it can hardly be noticed but to make it nice and shiny it would need blowing in in the correct colour. Replaced the rear bumper a year or so ago and this also needs painting as its just solid black. Needs a new bonnet cable ( i have machined new cable clip and trumpet end for a new cable though) needs new fan control unit. Engine is very strong pulls well and the car sounds fantastic!!!

hi, yes the straps that go around the rear beam and some drops links making from rose joints should do it. Im located in darlington your welcome to collect or i can arrange poostage. Cheers

eibach ARB Rear no fitting kit as pictured. sold Audi A6 door handles to weld in as pictured two handles from the rear so no locks, £50 Seat ibiza stub axles used for the conversion of mk3 style rear wheel bearing to mk4 style hub bearing and seperate disc. £50

I am having a simlar problem mine comes on after about ten seconds of the engine running ( didnt notice any unusual behaviour before though) I have tried unpluging the rad temp switch and the yellow, blue and black switches in the thermostat housing but it made no difference. so i think the only thing left is the fan control unit? try unpluging them switches to find out if its one of them causing the problem, the thermostat housing is just under the inlet manifold on the passenger side. and the rad fan switch is halfway down the rad on the passenger side. let me know if you find the problem. im going to start looking into the control unit ill post up what i find. Cheers ---------- Post added at 4:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 4:00 PM ---------- also found this on google search: Things that keep the fans on First, check fuses. On top of the battery there is a fuse block. The 1st green fuse on the left is for fan operation. Take it out, check it for heat damage. A lot of times the fuse won't blow, but there will be heat damage to the fuse and holder. If there's damage, you have had an high current draw and the relay might be stuck or the fan(s) are binding. While we are there, with the fuse out spin the fans by hand and see if they do anything but spin free. If binding, replace the fan. A high draw from a binding fan will burn out new components in the same way. With the fuse back in, check the fuse panel on the drivers' side of the dash. One at a time pull fuse #5, #16 and #25 and check them. If one of them blows, the fans can run unexpectedly. Still running? A/C- If your a/c button is on, this would keep the fans on always. Turn off the climate control system, make sure the A/C switch is off too. Still running? Go under the hood and unplug the A/C pressure switch. It's on an A/C line just before it enters the cabin. If you unplug it and the fans stop this is your issue. Still running? Next would to unplug the rad. thermo. switch. It's on the drivers side of the radiator about a foot down from the upper rad hose. It screws into the radiator and has a triangular connecter. Unplug it. If the fans go off, this is your issue. Still running? After you are SURE everything else checks out, last cause would be to replace the fan control module. It's the block right next to the thermo switch you just fooled with, the connecter is facing up. a bad coolant temp sensor might do this too

do you mean one wheel stuck out the arch more than the otherlike it had a wheel spacer on? Mine are equal in that respect but passenger side is 10mm closer to the front bumper. what did you try to sort your alignment issue out? Cheers

no movement in the bushes. iv even had prybar in behind the wish bone and tried to move it, its pretty solid. these will be getting replaced anyway with powerflex im just really concerned the chassis may be out if its had a bit of a bump or something in the past. if its just a case of the only other things causing the wheel alignment issue being wishbones then i will try shifting the subframe towards the back of the car on the passenger side make sure its lined up in relation to the rear axel. then i have a good starting point. just not so sure there will be enough to move the wheel 10mm.

ok i think i may have found an issue. The passenger side front wheel is 10mm further forward than the drivers side. I have meassured from lip to lip of the wheels and its physically visable when looking at the car. What could cause this without the wishbone being bent? how much adjustment does the subframe have? Cheers

hi im after a couple of daft bits if anyone has them kicking about. a bonnet cable not bothered if the clip has snapped, the bonnet 'trumpet' the metal bit on the end of the cable. a black plastic coat hook from the B pillar. black plastic parts from the seat back rest adjuster. ( i have the main knob but there must be parts missing as it wont just clip on.) boot interior light could do with three of these. and maybe a fusebox cover in black. all parts would need to be posted to Darlington unless you are very near by. Cheers

Not sure what ally it was to be honest I don’t have any square or rectangle stock, so I can’t think of where I will have found it. Maybe cut it out of a bit of round T6 as that the only bar stock I have. Other than that my option was EN304 stainless and I didn’t fancy making something so intricate out of something so hard. I had thought about the issue of stripping the grub screw, so my thoughts were to make the cable stop as close to the slot for the tab on the car as possible to reduce the leverage it will have and hopefully instead of trying to twist the tab it will be close enough to try and pull it instead (if that makes sense?) so in effect the grub screw is just to stop it sliding off when the cable returns to its resting position. The whole thing is very small maybe 15mm at most from top to bottom so the cable should be pretty close to the "pivoting" point hopefully so close that the stress it causes works in the way the tab is designed to.

here we go, as you can see the idea is it slide on to the tab on the bodywork towards the rear of the car so that when the cable is pulled it puts pressure against the tab, there is a grub screw just to clamp it onto the tab. the bonnet cable then slots through the bottom and the outer has a seat for it to pull against. like i say i have not tried it yet as i need a new cable, but i see no reason why it wont work. Theres no mods that has to be done, standard cable will work with it no holes drilled etc. not the prettiest but i didnt really take my time or finish it off as ill never see it unless im fixing something.

Hi, Ive got a 94 VR6 with LPG conversion. Its had an issue for ages where when you give it a bit too much throttle when cold it runs badly missfiring. i was told this was an ecu relay fault i changed that for a brand new one from vw and it ran worse to the point of it not being drivable at all and i had to swap back. recently this has got worse with the old relay in where it cuts out if reved over say 3k. I scanned with a fault code reader and i got 9 codes! i cleared them ran the engine again and rescanned got the same 9 codes back. The codes are: 522- coolant temp sensor 527- Intake air temp sensor 533- idle air regulation 1249 1250 1251 1252 1253 1254 Which is Fault on injector #1 through to #6 I also have an issue of the rad fan coming on almost straight after start up. I have disconnected the blue coolant temp sensor from the end of the crack pipe to see if that was causing rad fan coming on too early but it appears not so i presume that takes care of fault code 522. 527 i believe is the sensor on the side of the intake manifold near the vac line for the brake servo. This code came up before so i bought a modern golf sensor and fitted that but still getting the code. 533 not sure whats causing this, Its had a Brand new ISV so i presume the only things left are the lambda and MAF? where can i get a cheap MAF? i believe i have the later 4 pin one but will check. Then the injectors... not a clue whats happened there. Once the engines warmed up a bit the engine runs lovely idle drops from 1k when cold to really low about 800rpm after a minute or two of idling but solid no hunting or going to cut out. revs cleanly and returns back to idle as id expect. Its recently had a new CPS also. Has anyone got any ideas? Much appreciated if anyone could shed even just a bit of light. Cheers

at least its narrowed down, dont rule out the drain tube from sunroof though they run down the a pillar and if its split could be leaking in the pillar itself, worth checking before splashing out for a new screen. you could go down the route of windscreen cover on insurance if you have it, this may be what i do as mine has a coule of chips depends if i get round to it or not before they develop into cracks.

I had/have the exact same problem except my floors were full of water. i took the drivers seat out took the sound deadening out (thats been hung up for four weeks and still isnt dry!) dried the floor pan and carpet. and started looking for leaks with a hose pipe. I used some silicon around the bonnet cable grommet and the other grommet in the scuttle (throttle cable?) but i can see mine is running from the a pillar. so that to me is door seals/windscreen rubber/drainage pipe from sunroof. I have some new doors seals on the way from a mk4 then i will check again if that doesnt fix it, a bit of silicone around the sunroof(its getting changed soon back to the standard panel as the moonroof fits dreadful) if that doesnt fix it i will get the screen replaced. I took the under dash panel out and it was running from the earth block in the dash above the fusebox. also on the rear of the door there was water on the sill. I believe the water was getting in behind the door seal and running down the B piller seal lip then building up at the bottom so much that it then ran into the car. Hope this helps abit

I made one a very simlar design to the gruven one not so long ago, i havnt fitted it yet as i need a new cable also. I will try and get pictures of it. The finish isnt amazing as i just wanted something that works rather than looks good.

Yeah theres only one place in town i trust and its a proper place like, not one of these quick fit or small one man garages that you can never be sure about. got a few mates with garages so i get to know the best places. I dont think anything is bent as ive never hit anything or gone over a pothole etc that i thought was excessive, the odd jump here and there but nothing huge. but as i couldnt see anything else wrong it led me down that road of thinking the wishbones been bent. Cheers for the advice ---------- Post added at 7:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 7:09 PM ---------- the original was std i think, billstien dampers standard springs i believe. replaced with basic coilovers as the one of the dampers had rotted a hole in the spring seat. but the handeling went bad long before the suspension changes. i only changed them just before xmas and the handeling went bad about a year and a half ago. ---------- Post added at 7:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 7:12 PM ---------- Smashing thanks yeah rear beam has no adjustment does it so that will be interesting to see. whats the subtle mods? mines on coilovers that range from -20 to -100 and they are at their highest setting. I plan to use just like you say powerflex through however with the mk4 rear wishbone bush.