sleeper16

Thanks for the reply, I had checked everything and there’s nothing obvious wrong rear wheel bearing being the only issue. I have not yet changed anything other than the coilovers with top mounts. The other parts are on the plan regardless of if they are at fault or not to improve the handling capabilities. I have looked into which bushes to fit where etc and have even tried it first hand on my old car and I believe I know the right combination for the outcome I would like. Anti roll bar I have not tried first hand but have read on here that the eibach rear antiroll bar is a worthwhile upgrade so I got one just need the mounts etc I will try it once I have the issues sorted and if it improves it will stay if not then I will obviously try to determine why and adapt or remove as necessary. I understand what you are saying with regards to the camber which is my main question, as what have people with similar set ups found best. I completely agree the standard spec is not always the best; it’s set up as a compromise between road holding and tyre wear etc. I have no concerns with tyre wear I would much rather it stuck to the road well. I also know caster is fixed I just put that as it’s a general description of the elements I was wanting to look into, probably should of left it out. Any info on toe angle? Tyres definitely aren’t the issue I had looked at this and made adjustments I have also changed the wheels and tyres since then and it has made no difference. Bearing in mind this issue has been with the car for approx a year and a half I’m fairly confident in saying that it is an issue with something along lines of wheel alignment/bearing/bush. I was starting to believe that the wishbone could be bent or something but there’s no reason for it to be and when I have measured it, they’re identical so doubt both would be bent exactly the same. My initial plan was to change the front wishbone bushes and ball joints then get wheel alignment done see if that solves it. If not then progress onto the rear axle bushes and bearings and see if that solves it, after that I’m not sure. I honestly cannot explain howmuch of a different car it is. I now hold up horrible little cars that shouldnt have a chance of keeping up.

Hi guys been having a look on the forum but there doesn’t seem to be anything relating to this. My C used to handle fantastically now it feels sketchy like I really have to go slow for corners 40-60mph on corners that I know can be done much faster in fact have been in the C. This has been an issue for some time now and I want it back to good road holding abilities. I have just replaced the struts with coilovers only lowered about 20mm brand new top mounts and bearings. I will be replacing wishbone bushes and rear beam bushes I have an up rated rear antiroll bar to go I just need the mounts (anyone know where to get these?) I think a rear wheel bearing could be throwing it off so I will be replacing with the later mk4 design. Is there anything else I could do? Also the main point of this post is to ask about caster/camber tracking set up, what’s the best to go for, for country road use. I’ve heard that use the recommended amount (-1.3deg?) then for country road add another deg so (-2.3deg?) and toe of 1.3 deg at 20deg lock? Any advice is really appreciated Cheers

I see the arch liner is out on that pic does the arch liner have to come out? They look grand! tire looks a bit on the small side might go for 215/45's to fill it out abit. ---------- Post added at 5:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 5:32 PM ---------- What arch work have you had done? just the lip rolled? or flared? my 225/45 are catching on the strut so hopefully once i have coilovers i will get a bit more room from there

any one got any info on tires?

where did you guys get your steel adapters? the only ones i have managed to find are £260 a set! would feel much more comfortable with steel adapters mind! Cheers for the replies!

Had some rh zw1s laying about for a while and finally got round to putting them on a couple of months ago trouble is they rub loads. They have 225/45/17 on at the moment and the standard RH adapters so I believe if the wheels are 17" 8J ET60 that they will then be ET40ish. The car is standard height at the moment but one of the front struts has rotted through so will be hanging to coilovers soon, only drop 10-20mm to close arch gap (too many speed bumps and poor roads around here) I’m not sure what size tires to go for I don’t want them to rub but i don’t want stretched tires either. I don’t mind rolling arches ( I’m on with this at the moment) I’m stuck between 205/40/17 205/45/17 205/50/17 215/45/17 What tires do people think would work best? I have tried those calculators but would like to get ideas from what people have actually tried. I would like Eagle F1 asymmetric’s so the 205/50's at £170 each or 215/45's at £120 each Cheers

Hi, My corrado has a ToadAi606 that wasfitted when i bought the car, the central locking was wired to the alarm so on disarm the car would unlock etc. Last week i came out the supermarket and my partner opend the door and got in the car before i had disarmed it, I looked into it as i thought just that door was not locking turns out neither door nor boot nor fuel flap are locking or unlocking with the alarm anymore. They deffinaitly used to, I have looked all over the car and all the fuses i can see are ok no obvious problems with wiring etc. There is a relay that has something to do with the central locking but i dont understand it as it has 12v on every terminal. The central locking is still working as it works with the key but just not getting activated with the alarm. Anyone got any ideas? Cheers

cheers already watching all them though. the ones with massive lip damage is ideal although i think they will go for much more than i am willing to pay. we will see. Cheers

Hi, Im after a seat of Rh zw1s for my corrado cant spend loads on them so open to ones with lip damage or needing a refurb also not bothered about them having rubber on. Would like 5 x 100 but not essential. What have people got? Cheers

late reply but all sorted. unfortuantly i didnt have enough petrol to follow for more than a few streets also was concerned if the car was stolen etc (this is common in my area) so it was either get hold of them or accept it go to the body shop and pay for whatever damage which i was expecting whole new rear quarter. luckily i managed to go to the dent and nock 90% out bumper was nackered but i can repair it and caused £600 worth of damage to her car she also dropped herself in it and said she knew she hit me. all in it cost me a tenner so alls well that ends well.

damage is still visable from initial crash as it was side on. i also have a witness that was the passenger in my car.

well i was going to but then a man who only seen the bit of me overtaking them and stopping ran over shouting about how id just stopped in the middle of the road and he would be their witness and all that and even though they would be alot worse off than me i thought i could do without getting any points or having an insurance claim really. thinking back now i should of as i think they wouldnt of had a leg to stand on. surely i cant be to blame for stopping a hit and run driver? what do people think would happen if i went through insurance knock for knock? or do you think they would struggle to get theirs paid out for? i dont really want to loose my ncb.

hi i was just wondering if any insurance bods were on this forum that could advice on if it is worth while making a claim. a car ran into me and drove off, clearly trying to get away as they were doing 40-50mph in a small 30mph street i caught up with the car (its a 1 litre) and was not stopping i over took the car and stopped the car. the other driver then smashed into the back of me. the other driver is claiming i stopped to quickly but i say her 2007 car should be able to outbrake me anyday plus i was travelling faster so more stopping distance etc. plus when the car hit the back of mine it hit the back and through my car forwards then hit again and again so clearly was not braking! it is a new driver so still within the 6points limit. I felt a bit sorry for the driver as they were new so agreed if they paid for my car id pay for theirs knowing that mine would be alot more to fix now they are trying to say parts were allready damaged before hand! If i went through insurance what would be the likely scenario? cheers for any advice

works perfect off the switch up and down. goes up at 56mph but then doesnt come down unless i use the switch. cheers

is it known good working order? and how much is it? cheers

Hi i have managed to fix my spoiler so it goes up automattically the spoiler works perfectly off the switch up and down but it wont lower when i get under 5mph. its a 94 vr and speedo works fine so it has baffled me as surely it just gets a signal from the speed cable from gearbox via instruments for it to lower? cheers

hi i have been trying to sort out my rear spoiler issue traced the blue and white cable back to radio area only to find it had been solderd to a black cable that goes to a box that has the ariel plugged into it. i presume this is the ariel amp i have cut the blue and white cable off but where should the black cable go to? any help is greatly appreciated

smashing cheers guys, just gave it a go there (problem is still there) could be relay as i heard a clicking noise. its a strange problem as engine doesnt cut out to start with but has no throttle and then the engine stalls then its the few mins to start it. will look at the relay see if i have one about that i can try changing over cheers

ok had a look and from the isc to the inlet manifold there was a 90 degree bend coupler that had insulation tape wraped around to make it a snug fit in the pipeworks some of the insulation tape had gone across the oppening so this could of been the issue. But i cant see any isv damper box? pipe to isv comes direct from the inlet elbow(between airbox and throttle body) and form isv it goes direct to the 90 coupler and then directly to the inlet. cheers

ok so no faults on abs module but went round and checked the restance of the sensors(was suspecting either a sensor or a speedring to broke loose from the disc) and found one of the rear sensors had gone so replaced with a spare i had and works a treat. not sure why it hasnt logged it on ecu though! ---------- Post added at 10:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:13 PM ---------- cheers rw1 a comprehensive explanation! think its all fixed for now will see how it goes over a few days might be worth checking the datalines and cables anyway.

yup standard airbox and im pretty sure i caught a glimps or the carbon cannister when realigning bumper. will double check and make sure itts all connected up properly, just been out to move it and it ran at really low revs like 500 idle was almost cutting out. it has blue ignitor leads and brand new coilpack if thats any help

hi guys sorry its been a while had a lot on. vag com shows no codes. im thinking it must be a peed ring or sensor as it only comes on when the car moves. i had a run down the motorway with actual working abs the other day too and the brakes were rather decent! will check rotors today and test sensors. anything else to look out for? cheers

hi, when i first start the vr6 on my way out of town if i go above 3k 4k revs it cuts out and then is a pain to start turns over fine but doesnt catch, sounds as if its flooded or something. it is funny how it catches after a turn or two of nothing it will catch on one n then after a turn or two on one it will catch on two etc untill it catches on about 4 and then starts and runs really rough for a few minuets. i know reving it that high when not warmed up is not good and i dont usually untill i found it does that. vag com brings nothing up so any clues as to what to look out for? cheers

i used lamin x gun smoke on the rear of mine looks well was easy to apply but i wish i had taken a bit more time with it and got it looking perfect. but i was eager to get rid of the awful orange indicators! the lamin x stuff is really good i found if you apply it to the flat bit of the lense (the bit you see from rear of car) then heat the corners up and stick them down working from the apex of the corner out towars the side and top then stick the sides and tops down there is no need to do relief cuts and makes it look standard! ill try get some piks of them if it helps.

cool where abouts your from? one thing to watch for is if the machine shop include balencing the flywheel in the price, i know hotgolf ones come ready to go. ---------- Post added at 11:26 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:20 AM ---------- isnt the final drive of the cdm 3.647 anyway? so the 3.6 would result in a loss of acceleration?