AJ_EQ

As per title, I'm after a crank position sensor, as I believe mine has gone kaputt. Car continually turns over but doesn't fire. No AC and RPM through the fuse. Has happened before and car started the next day after it had cooled. Does anyone have a low mileage complete functioning one lying around?

Saw a Bordeaux Pearl VR6 (same as mine) in Aylesbury today at 10:20am. Purposely drove the wrong way to where I was going just to so I could pull up along side, give a wave and take a good look. Standard look I think. Also saw one up at ASTON HILL when I was up there mountain biking. no badge, dark colour, but there cant be many mountain bikers who own a corrado... possibly not the most practical car to put bikes in.

Well my trail of thought was along the lines of, they can obviously void your insurance if you put parts without declaring them. But could they really turn around and void it if you havnt put the part in and the therefore the car is standard? It would probably be a month or so before I got around to putting the parts on, then I would stage 2 remap it as well. I just know insurance companies dont like you (especially people my age), changing things on the car, particularly performance components and might not continue to insure you. But if the car already "has" the mods then they cant really say no to insure a car which you have done no work on. Rang up my current insurance company yesterday and if I bought said car and modded it in the future, how would this work. They just got all hot under the collar, recommended I didnt do anything as they may not be able to insure me.

Am actually looking to insure a mk4 1.8t, im looking to buy, but it has a fair few mods on it and I might have the tendancy to add a few more. I sit slap bang in the middle of the 18-25 catergory, so one false mod and there goes the premium. The car in question was a 1.8t 150bhp standard. Now has been lowered (not much), turbo upgrade to ko3s with remap (208bhp), upgrade waterpump, new clutch (maybe not oem), new alloys, milltech exhaust system, forge dv. All looks standard though, which is what I like. The guy im buying off is selling to me with new stainless enlarged manifold, VR6 throttle body, 4 bar fuel reg and uprated intercooler kit. Would it be ok to declare to insurance company, that my car already has the future mods on it, so I dont have to faff and pay stupid money for it later?

As I said, I just love the VR6 engine and have decided to hold on to it. I would buy another corrado and do the conversion if I could afford it, but its currently out of my funding. So I am looking into other cars, possibly with the 1.8t and thats why I said the mk4 golf handled like crap. I am going to test drive a GT TDi mk4 golf today (130), but I am slightly concerned about the horror stories I have heard about cam wearing.

tbh it handled like a sack of potatoes. I dont know whether it has height adjustable seats, but I felt like my head was almost touching the roof and im only 5'9". Thought maybe it would worth putting some coilovers on it perhaps. Ideally Id love another corrado with the 1.8T but its going to be outa my price range. Is there a car that has good handling, nice relaxed driving position, enough power thats not the corrado, lol.

Right... er I've changed my mind, lol. After driving a mk4 gti 180 and a remapped (by cc tuning) 150 with ko3s, I just dont want to get rid of my VR6, I love the power band but mainly just the sound. So now I need a more fuel efficient car on a relatively low budget. I'm thinking something with either the 1.8 T 150 or GT TDi (130, I've heard the 150 has cam issues). After my first time driving a mk4 yesterday, i didnt like the driving position that much, felt like i was on a booster seat (maybe just something to get used to). Any help in choosing a would be great. My potential list so far includes A3, Leon, Golf. Doesnt have to stay within the vw group I guess, but thats all ive ever known really.

well yes that was my original trail of thought, but then after finding I may possibly need an engine rebuild totally a potential £3k plus before even thinking about the turbo, I started looking at the 1.8T. Though dont get me wrong, id love a vr6 turbo. hmmm any idea on how each different turbo and requisite upgrades, including remaps would affect my bank balance? Just thought easily spending 8k on the Vr6 seemed a bad option perhaps.

ok thanks for all the info guys. At the moment im still driving my VR6 and I love the progressive power of the engine. I dont think any turbo'd engine is ever going to feel like this, but am still interested in the whole 1.8T thing. Say the AGU I get has ko3 (still not sure how to check this, im guessing they look different, anyone know what year they started putting in ko3s in golf gti?) What would be the best option to upgrade to? Prices to reflect these options would be very helpful. A quick search shows not a huge amount of difference in price between the ko3s, ko4 and gt28, but im guessing as the turbo is upgraded, there should be various upgrades made to support it?

Dont Worry I didnt pay that for just the engine, that price was in a working Audi. The AGU off my mate is priced at £350. Should I be concerned about the mileage though, think he said it has just over 100k on the clock? Also is there a way of telling what turbo is on it? was the ko3s put in after a certain year? I think if its a ko3s I wont upgrade it? How would you even start to get over 300bhp out of interest? Im guessing the 230-240 estimate is literally just the remap. If its the ko3 do you think its worth upgrading the ko4. Ive also heard theres more progressive power with the ko4 with less turbo lag.

thanks for the offer, but have already accepted my mates AGU at a bargain price. Would I see much more gains if i upgraded the ko3's (hybrid) to ko4? Any idea how much this would amount to? So if you can get a cheap AGU and with practically standard internals and get 260-280 out of it, why would you pay premium for a 210-225 with the same power after remap?

Right have finally started to get to grips with this subject now, muchas gracias for the wealth of knowledge. So have wikipediadered this 1.8T and theres definitely a few different ones available. My massive newby engine knowledge fail error was assuming the engines were all the same, albeit tuned/turbo'd differently. Thanks for clearing this up. I am very interested in the agu as it is an easy option available to me. Could anyone give me an idea of how much i should expect to spend on getting it to various staged, particular the top end? Also what sort of power gains should I expect from this? If the turbo and ignition system were changed would this really be a lot worse than say the AUQ/BAM. If someone could give me an idea of the prices of the optimal engines with remaps that would be awesome. I can get the agu for 1.3k btw.

Have been looking into this conversion and read through most of the 20vt thread, but am still a little confused as to what car to get it from. I can get hold of a MK4 GTi (2001, 150bhp) or a cheaper mk4 1999 (125bhp). I have a feeling there's something different between these other than just the tuning. I have also read that the turbos were upgraded around this time and Im not sure what year attributes to what turbo, or which one is preferred. Other option is to take one out of 2001 A3 (150bhp). Obviously the lower the mileage on the engine the better, but when it comes to tuning and possibly upgrading to ko4, should avoid 100k+ engines? Hope someone can clear up my confusion on this subject.

Just thought Id update my thread so anyone who comes across it may find it helpful. Turns out the lambda was functioning correctly as I suspected. Being my first corrado I had no idea what the engine temperature was supposed to average. Turns out it was 20 Degrees to cold. So got the Thermostat and housing removed and the whole lot was shot. Popped a new one in and voila, sorted!!! Engine runs a lot warmer now, fuel consumption and power is up. Hope this helps someone. now onto the leak......

Didn't feel the need to start a new thread, just thought id drag up my old topic. Hope thats cool. So finally got around to testing the lambda. Bought a multimeter, set it up according to another post on the forum. After reading many topics relating to this, i put the probe into the black plug, into the wire separate from the others, which was white, and many people have mentioned it being black, but my black wire is grouped with the other 2. Wired up wrong? Anyway warmed the engine up and tested it. I'm seeing mainly values jumping from various figures between 0.1 and 0.9, some closer, some further apart. Occasionally it drops below 0.1 but not constantly. Assuming I've set this test up correctly i am lead to believe these are the values I should be seeing, so the problem of excessive fuel consumption and rich exhaust fumes remain a mystery!!1 Maybe I should just change the lambda anyway?

Can it jacked up to access it or would a pit be safer?

I just thought could it be the injectors (hope not)..?

Replaced plugs this morning, no difference. Not entirely sure how to test the CPS, Im guessing voltmeter, which I dont currently own, might be worth investing in one. Took a look at the wiring loom and visually its looks alright to me. There was one suspect wire, though not from the CPS. Bear with my poor mechanical knowledge. The wire was plugged in to a cylindrical unit, vertically positioned just above the coilpack. Had a two prong connector, plugged in vertically, with no clip, quite small, barely 10mm across. Anyhow it was a little loose, so pulled it out, cleaned it bit, because it was slightly corroded at the end, then put it back. Any idea what this was? Did your test Roger on the MAF, as soon I removed it, turned it over, the engine almost cut out instantly, so Im assuming MFA's not faulty. Couldn't find the Lambda, does the car need to be up to get access to it? I did not replace the trigger wheel on the camshaft, as I have no idea how to go about doing this. What could replacing this achieve? From reading around it seems I should have noticed an increased BHP from replacing the CPS, I'm guessing theres something not right with it still. All replies much appreciated as always. Thanks

lol at my knowledge on vr6. I pretty sure my mechanic mentioned something about the coilpack. Im also fairly certain its an early '93 if that helps. Am going to replace plugs. Have already replaced cam sensor and cant say i noticed any difference at all. Other than code disappearing. Any idea what to check next? Stupid 00533 code. Poor idling again this morning.

Is there anyway to remove the ht leads and sparks without the tool? It probably makes sense to buy one, but just so I can take a look today. Also would it be worth replacing the isv, would this most likely be responsible for 00533, even after I've cleaned it?

Havn't gone by the mfa, knowing its unrealiability. Only by my own calculations. It would be nice to drive the vr6 how its supposed to be driving, but currently I honestly drive like a granny to use as little fuel as possible. Have given the isv a good clean= no difference at all. Thinking the fault could lie with the lambda sensor, but no notification of that on the vag-com. Where abouts is it located? Maybe I can test it somehow? also have been reading about the MAF, which Im also not sure of its location. Any way of testing this? havn't noticed/heard any air leaks. all hoses/pipes are tight. Is there any reason I should replace the HT leads? as I dont think they've been replaced at all (123,000miles on clock). What about distributor caps and rotor arm?

In my quest to have a smooth running reliable corrado, I still have not made any headway with this problem. I put in a new camshaft sensor, which made no difference to anything (was hoping for a little more power :( ) I dont really fancy spending out on isv, when it may not even be the cause of my poor fuel economy. I also did a round trip to leeds and back (320miles), visiting the gf , which cost me a nice tidy sum. Averaging 13.6mpg :brickwall: Not really sure now what steps to take to determine the problem. :shrug: Also erratic idle and stalling has increased. want to spend money on other parts for her, not double fuel costs.

Thanks for all the advice guys. I'm going to work through each of the faults one by one, starting with replacing the camshaft position sensor next week. Was also wondering if any of these engine faults could cause an erratic idle/cutting out? This only happens in the morning mind, when the engine is cold. It's not a major problem right now, but would quite like to sort it.

Seems like 0515 and 0533 wont be responsible for my extremely poor fuel consumption. Worth replacing anyway? Yes I did the second scan straight after I cleared the first one. I shall take it for a longish run before I see my mechanic on Mon. Any more info on the lack of Cat? Mot requirements, could this be the reason for poor fuel consumption?

So the Lambda should still be there, even if the Cat has been removed? What are your opinions on running it with/without Cat? Can anyone tell me how to solve the other faults and where about there sensors/units are? thanks again