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pookyvr6

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Everything posted by pookyvr6

  1. pookyvr6

    S3 or R32?

    Ok. Have to add, I test drove an R32. Having driven a VR6 for 3 years to say I was dissapointed was an understatement. Not so much so that I wouldn't buy one, but there is just not as much driver satisfaction from the R32. Every time I get in the VR, I enjoy myself no matter what speed I'm doing. The R32 just felt a bit bland. It was almost like someone at VW had designed a cossie beater, only for the top man to say "no. that's far too much fun. Reduce the BHP by 40, whack on some power steering and traction control. Just put some tasty wheels and two exhausts on it, that'll keep 'em happy" Am I trying to convince myself out of this? Oh, on the company car thing, tuning not a problem! :mrgreen:
  2. pookyvr6

    S3 or R32?

    OK, have some cash for a new ('ish) motor through work. Currently thinking R32 or Audi S3. S3 is the current favourite primarily due to the fact that for about £1,000 you can get around 260 bhp and bags or torque. Also, R32 has stopped production and will be superceeded soon. Not quite the beast we all hoped for. Any thoughts, particularly on the S3 appreciated. Which would u go for and why?
  3. Surely its one piece is is not? i.e. a cut shape of aluminium with a single straight fold in it? All the ones I've seen are a single sheet with cut holes and plastic edging.
  4. Seem to remember that someone had a template diagram for making a heatshield for use with the K&N 57i and other induction kits. Anyone got any idea where I can get a hold of one? Thanks
  5. pookyvr6

    Going lower

    Recently, I put Eibach springs and Bilstein dampers on my VR. Though happy with the ride, I fancy taking a bit more off the height. I think the Eibach's lower 30mm so I fancy going a further 10-15mm (40-45mm in total). Anyone running a similar set-up? Any ideas on what springs to get would be useful. Also, the front seems to sit a bit higher that the rear. Wierd. Should I have done anything else (i.e. bumpstops) when replacing (bushes and top mounts were done)? Cheers
  6. A couple of points to clear up please: 1. The Brembo 4-pot brakes we're talking about use larger discs than the std. discs on the VR6 (288mm?) ? 2. The rough price of £375 would be for all the parts inc. disks and pads but less brake hoses? 3. We'll need 17" with careful offset to fit? Thanks :mrgreen:
  7. I had the head gasket, de-coke, piston rings etc. done recently as well. Both water and Oil temps changed after the work. Oil went from average of 116 to a steady 112 now (116 when thrashing the nuts off). Think temp sits at 90. Will take time to bed-in but I agree, 124 sounds high. May be linked to the electric probs? Accurate readings? Best of luck...
  8. Thanks. Plenty to go on now!
  9. VR6 is flexing its vocal chords, and "screaming" after starting for about 1 second. Only happens on cold starts. Sounds like a metal belt slipping or something. Any ideas?
  10. Sorry, just thinking about this a bit more. The problem would seem to be that the measurement from the mating face of the wheel to the spokes causes problems with the AZEV's. So, you can use a spacer to give extra caliper clearance, but this then pushes the wheels outside the arches. Surely, if you go with "more" offset, this would in turn move the outer rim of the wheel futher in towards the arch (by effectively moving the spokes closer to the rim of the wheel). So is more offset and spacers on a 7.5 inch rim the answer? Probably not. but I've got loads of lovely drawings trying to work this bloody thing out.
  11. Dan, What suspension set up have you got and what width wheels have you got? If the spacers worked in clearing the calipers, how much did the wheels stick out? i.e. if I'm only lowred 30mm, i've still got good clearance. On 40's the diamiter should be appx the same as 50's on 15". So, should be ok, if not, some arch rolling at the front. I'm sure you've been through them all but if you've got any more info it would be appreciated.
  12. You can get A's in three widths at 17": 7, 7.5 and 8. Bigger the width, more rim you get but more arch fouling. Thats why I was told to go for 7" as they would not foul the arches with an et 35 offset. Question is, if you go for say an et 25 offset at 7" width, will this avoid the calipers whilst still not rubbing the arches? So many questions....
  13. Ok, seen many views on this and trying to get a definative answer before spending the bucks. I have been told that AZEZ A 7x17 et 35 will fit the VR with no caliper fouling. Some on this forum seem to think differently, and I'm more inclined to take their advice than that of the supplier. Does anyone know if they can be fitted and what were the wheel specs. Also, If anyone's had problems how did you sort it? Anyone know of a cheap place to buy them? I've had a quote of £825 inc tyres. Good or Bad? Cheers Mark '94 Black VR
  14. I've just had Eibach springs and Bilstein dampers fitted. Also, replaced all bushes and top mounts. The ride is definately firmer, but not overly harsh. I drive on cobbles every day so I guess I wouldn't notice much. It is however a totally different feel on the open road. After taking about 200 miles to properly bed in, the car is awsome on A roads. Hardly any body-roll and a very light feeling front end. Back end feels solid and you can feel exactly when the inner wheel starts to loose contact. Has a tendancy to oversteer but thats just getting used to the new characteristics. Suspension upgrade is IMO, the best money you can spend on a C. My advice would be don't do it half-cock and get the best kit you can afford. Try out the springs and see how you go. You can always upgrade shocks later.
  15. pookyvr6

    Power Chips

    Christopher, talking shit about what exactly? Here's the Ebay link which I referred to: So I got it slightly wrong. Big fu*king deal. Another northener frustrated that they're not Scottish.
  16. pookyvr6

    Power Chips

    Sorry to be pessamistic, but it bollock's. Its a resistor that you fit somewhere to the air flow meter which basically tells the engine less air is getting in than actually is. The engine then compensates and puts more fuel in. So, I guess: worse fuel economy, bad compression, confused ECU and more than likely, a new engine, ECU and head gasket before long. You'd be better off shoving a portion of "chips" in your fuel tank. If anyone believes they can get +15bhp for £15 then good luck to you. Williamson, your not the bloke selling them on Ebay are you? Thought so.
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