Moreland

Ok, though't I'd post up as the VR's having some issues. The main issue I've got is the oil temp, major high readings from from 130deg @ 70mph to 160deg @90mph. I had a water temp issue which was sorted with a T'stat but I also changed the water pump, dash sender, fan switch and now coolant sits at around 85deg or so which should be ok. The engines a replacement after the head went on my other one so I don't know what it was like before, it's not missed a beat in 3k miles so I don't think it's damaging it. I've got a oil temp sender coming Monday so will check the wiring when I take the inlet off. If that doesn't sort it I'm left scratching my head! Not really related to cooling but I've got an electrical issue as well. When the keys in the ignition first stage without starting the engine, the fuel pump relay has a burst of power going to it from most of the interior components when there turned on, wipers, interior light, indicators, heater fans etc. This causes the relay on the fuel pump to click up to 10 or so times. Once the engines started though it stops and is fine to drive? I've changed the fuse box after the headlight loom burnt out and think that's when it started, could one of the auxiliary plugs be in the wrong place? It's a right mystery to me as I checked for bridging wires with no luck. Thought's on both issues would be a great help, thanks Paul

Hi, Thought I'd post the nightmare I had last month with the VR and a possible prevention, It all started with what seems to be a common fault with the light switch failing which I didn't find out till it was too late and burnt a load of the wiring loom. After noticing my ABS light was stuck on and the heater and window wipers weren't working I did a bit of wire diagram searching to find the ignition switch must have been damaged during the process. Luckily this was a relatively cheap fix with a second hand light switch and loom and fitted an in-line fuse to stop it happening again. A few days later I started to have further electrical problems with my dash gauges playing up, my speedo and temp gauges were going up and down like a yo-yo so I had the fuse box out to check to see if any further damage had been done to the wire form the previous shorting out. I couldn't see anything looking out of place or burnt so left it for a day. After not driving the car for around 24hrs I went outside and found the fans on full blast, I was thinking some thing's definitely not right with the electrics and was wondering if the two incident's were related ? Anyway to cut a long story short, from driving it to work the following morning things went from bad to bloody terrible after smoke started appearing out the back and the engine was running like a bag of ****. I stopped almost immediately as It happened and noticed a huge water leak under the car and was pretty sure some form of head gasket failure had occurred. After starting to take the engine out wondering how this could of happened, I removed the main engine loom harness connection to find a world of corrosion and water damage which would have been bridging all the temp senders and dash gauges. This was then deemed the reason of failure and something that could of most likely have been prevented. After stripping the head down there were signs of wear on the valve guides, piston rings and severe pitting on the head itself. This would explain a lot as the engine needed topping up with oil quite regularly. After pricing a rebuild for around £1600 I thought I'd better get a second hand engine as I couldn't afford that at all. This time I didn't take any chances and did a compression test on the new engine and all signs were good, I'd intended to change the clutch, chains and tensioners, loom and do a full service on it which came to just over £800 including the engine which wasn't too bad. Now she's pulling like a train again with only a few minor issues, I changed the T'stat after bottom rad hose was cold which sorted that but there's still problem with the fan kicking in around 10deg too late. I've read the cooling guide on here which is leading me to think rad fan sensor of the yellow dash sensor. Also my oil is getting pretty hot on a motorway at around 130deg when not pushing too hard. I've done 1k on the new engine and changed the oil twice, but not too sure sure how to solve this. I've got my old oil cooler but can't see that changing much. Hopefully going to get VAG-COM to check what's going on temp wise. I thought I'd post this up and a few pics if it could help prevent it happening to anyone else, in-line fuse on the light switch earth and check the engine loom connection for corrosion. Also if anyone's interested in my old engine they can have it cheap Paul

Hi, Thought I'd ask if anyone's had similar electrical problems with their Rado. It's VR 93 @ 120 K. It started with the rear wiper playing up then a rear light coming on last week without the switch on which lead to the loom burning out. After reading on here it seems their prone to the switches going so changed that with a new loom and in line fuse to prevent it happening again. From the loom burning out though it seemed to effect the load reducing relay as no power was getting to it, after some wire diagram searching It turned out to be the ignition switch causing the problem so that was changed and power was resumed back to the relay. Today though after just fixing the previous problem I noticed the fans were going full blast as I went outside which was strange as I hadn't driven the car for 24 hours, after removing the fan control unit the fan cut off and I left at that. I just went for a drive though and now my coolent temp is going crazy and dash light flashing as if it is about to overheat. With or without the control unit plugged the same problem arises. I'm assuming a temp sensor has failed? I was wondering if anyone's had similar faults and if there is any coincidence with the multiple components failing all in the same week ??? I do love the car but it is starting to test my patience ! Paul -

Hi there, do you have the headlight loom from the back of the switch to the fuse box still? Mine fried itself the other day. If you've got the headlight switch (535 941 531 f) and it's the right one I'll grab that off ya too. Thanks, Paul

Wish I'd seen this post before today, same problem of burnt out brown wire. I've tried to check the damage and only seems to be the light switch loom so was glad to find out it's only a short one instead of having the whole dash out. I've sourced a new loom and will be doing this mod when it arrives! I've got another problem though that now my ABS light is on, heater fan and window wipers don't work either. All fuses seem ok, could this be a relay problem? Any suggestion out there? Thanks