hrdwdpro

I posted in the parts for sale without scrolling down to see the wtb forum my bad Mods! I am in the us and looking for an inexpensive na chip to run until i finish my turbo swap fabrication. Please let me know price plus shipping to 24401.

the diode is a one way valve to ensure that with the car off you do not end up with 12v backfeed and a battery drain issue. the part number from radio shack is #276-1661

I get the reason for screening the first five posts but why do my posts not make it to the threads. I posted a response to my post and it said it needed mod approval and within no time its up. I post to other threads and the posts don't make it. Whats the criteria for what you will allow. I have only offered help no post whoring and no spam. What gives?

Answering my own question so that this is not a wasted thread. I usually ask questions when tired and out of brain power. My distributor is a four window. The magnetic pickup is at the top and reads through the four windows. All 8v 1.8 engines used the four window distributor because they are batch fire. digi1 is batch fire. Motronic uses sequential fire and a single window distributor. The pin on the bottom only hold on the gear. I had many of these at the shop and I am good to go. I do however have another question. what do the numbers on the pickup at the top of the distributor indicate? My distributor has a 29 and 32 the distributor that I am looking to put in has a 28 and a 30.

The way we terminate cables in the shop is to put the terminal in a vice and heat it with a torch. Have someone hold thee stripped wire near the torch to get it hot. Fill the terminal all the way up with solder and quickly insert it into the terminal. If you have stripped the wire to the perfect length you will get a very neat cable that will absolutely never pull apart and the least resistance possible in that joint. The tricky part is heating the wire enough without melting the jacket. I have seen this done without heating the wire and only melting the solder into the terminal but I have always questioned the cold solder joint theory when doing it that way. It did work for him and it was still very strong.

The light staying on does mean that it is not charging. The light should come on and then go out. But if you run 12v constant to the terminal on the alternator that the blue wire connects to while the car is running you will either see 12 volts coming out of the alternator or not. The trick to simplifying the diagnosis of the alternator is to isolate it from your fuse box and cluster. There are too many variables with an old car to do anything else. You run 12v constant to the exciter input terminal on the alternator. Just go straight to the alternator and hook it up at the stud. Take your multimeter and check for 13-14v output on the large stud if you see good voltage the alternator is working. Then check for the same voltage at the starter post. If you see good voltage there the cable is good to the starter. then check for the same voltage at the battery. again if you see good voltage there that length of cable is good and you are charging the battery. That is a simple way to test the system and eliminate the question marks of bad fuse box or cluster circuitry. Now you can either run a 12v power source with a diode to your alternator and eliminate the factory circuits, or you can install a diode which is a very cheap item, leave it hooked up this way while you find you short in the circuitry, and then hook the blue wire back up. Either way if the tests work out for you your car will be back on line until you finish the job. I personally just eliminated the factory circuit. The only thing is do not hook up to any ignition power sources or your car may not shut off when you turn the key off.

there are some freeze plugs on that end of the block here is an image http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m77/vdubpimpx/noname.jpg

the battery light should come on then turn off if the light stays on you have a problem. but a known good alternator installed can only be limited by three things because it is a three wire alternator. the blue exciter wire is typically the culprut. bypass the cluster and fuse box and jump 12v to the blue wire while it is running. use your multimeter on the post sticking out of the starter and the post sticking out of the alternator. you should see 13-14v at the alternator post then check the starter post you should see.the same there. continue down the line of possibilities. there is always the grounds but with a car that old eliminating the factory wiring for the exciter will help to determine if the problem.is in your fuse box or cluster.

I have not read all of the responses to this thread as I am searching for answers to my personal issues but it sounds as if the exciter wire is not doing its job. The alternator does not begin charging until the battery light comes on. If it does not work properly the alternator will not begin to charge. Sometimes they will self excite but that is not the way they are designed it is a fluke if they do. My alternator did self excite but only a single wire alternator is designed to do so. My engine is a swap into a mk1 and the hack that built the car was a wiring infant. I had to install an exciter wire that did not run through the instrument cluster. I can not recall exactly what my solution was but i know i installed a 12v power wire and attached it to the blue exciter wire to get the alternator to excite. My suspicion was correct when the engine was running but the alternator was not charging. as soon as I applied 12v to the blue wire the alternator began to charge. when testing a three wire alternator you will run 12v to the exciter by default and the alternator will test to be good. when you install the alternator in your car it will not function properly. I ran a 12v power supply to my alternator exciter wire with a diode inline. My problems were solved. I hope this helped or maybe its rubbish in which case feel free to hammer me.

Hello I'm new to this forum but not to my car and VW. I spent the better part of the second half of the day trying to get my timing set on my g60 mkI digi1 car. I have deleted the supercharger, cut the bracket down so that it is alternator support and tensioner, added a vr6 water pump pulley. I have been trying to get the timing right when installing my new timing belt and even though I never moved the distributor I just couldnt get it to run the way it did before winter storage. I have done a full compression test which turned out very well, almost perfect. I have also checked out all of my ignition components which cleared testing perfectly. After hours of setting and resetting the cam,in my driveway, in the rain, very unhappy, tooth up one, tooth down one, you get the picture. I finally decided to turn the distributor. Whenever I touched the plug the engine would die. I decided to pull the distro and I found the pin that runs horizontally through the gear to be protruding on one side and worn down pretty badly. I already plan on replacing the distro but my question is about the pin. Is that the magnetic pickup and the pin that holds the gear on? Is it just a pin to hold the gear on? Or is it just the magnetic pickup? What would the pin have contacted internally to wear away? I work in an air cooled shop part time and we have many distributors on the shelf but there has never been a g60 through the shop. Is there another model that used the same distributor as the g60? I know I can check part numbers and I will in the morning but if word comes back that it is g60 only, I will not waste my time and I will order one first thing in the morning.