Dodger

Well it strikes again! Just replaced the water pump and thermostat, the pump impeller was free wheeling...

Well I guess yesterday was my lucky day. While driving to work my G60 just shut off. Turns out the crankshaft timing sprocket slipped. After a new gear, Bolt and a roll pin, it is all good now. Just figured I would share my headache. God I love these cars! Dodger

Yay! Today I went to another G60 owners flat, and we installed my ecu in his car. Guess what? Ran the same way mine does, smoking and over fueling. Put his ecu back in and it ran perfectly. So the hunt is on for a purple sticker ECU.

Just as the title says, everything has been working perfectly, windows roll up when I lock it, doors lock from both pass and drivers side. When I try to unlock it the vacuum pump works, and the door locks pop up, but the doors will not open. Even if I disconnect the vacuum pump they still will not open. If I climb through the hatch and pop the hood, disconnect the battery. I can unlock the doors with the key. Reconnect the battery and all works perfectly again. In a few days or hours, back to not unlocking unless the battery is disconnected. Since I can not unlock it with the central locking pump removed, what else is in the doors to keep them locked? Dodger

Ok Folks I am lost, A few months ago I purchased a 1990 G60 with 135miles on the clock. The car had been sitting for several years. Since taking ownership of it here is what all I have done: -Rebuild engine with good used pistons, new rings, and bottom end bearings, Bore was within specs and deglanzed/recross hatched, the head was redone at a local machine shop. -Overhauled the fuel system to include new pump, regulator, relay, lines, injectors, filter, and cleaned out the tank by hand. - Inspected electrical system and verified stock chip in ecu, checked computer harness to each sensor with a multimeter, and throttle body micro switches. Replaced alternator, battery, cables, blue ect, plugs, cap, rotor, wires, coil, isv, ecu relay, ecu 3.5mm X 1 meter vac line, O2 sensor, adjusted CO pot to 500 ohms. - Also replaced was timing belt, air filter, thermostat, drive belt, changed tranny fluid, cleaned all grounds, installed extra ground wires to the throttle body, block, ecu tray, valve cover, and coil bracket. The car starts right up, runs rough, lots of black smoke from the tail pipe. It stutters under acceleration, and sometimes stalls when returning to idle. The plugs foul pretty fast if I let it idle too long. It pulls 10 in/hg at idle. The charger is bypassed (still waiting on parts for it). Fuel pressure is around 43 psi at idle (and holds it with in Bently manual specs for 10 minutes). If I bypass the blue ect it will lean out a bit, still not enough. (just testing to see if the ecu is performing any sort of fuel control) I am thinking the ECU may be bad, if I pinch the fuel line to where it has about 20 psi in the rail it idles perfectly. So it is a fueling issue causing the problem. Any suggestions? What am I missing? Dodger

I opened it up and looked at the removable chip on the board, here are its numbers; 1 267 356 189 LD27256-25 Not sure what the stock one should look like. I will post a pick of it when I get home.

Already did that

Ok, first off problem solved, the timing belt killer is no more. Turns out it was a defective lifter on the number one intake. 12 mile test drive, still has a rough idle, and a really bad miss from idle to 2500K. After that it pulls like a champ, Lots of power and runs great. I have replaced so many parts now I am not sure where to start looking. Any suggestions? The ECT is new, all vacuum lines have been replaced, new oxygen sensor, rebuilt engine, new ecu relay, new 3.5mm exactly 1 meter long, fuel pump, new injectors, fuel pump relay, and so many more parts than I can remember. Any ideas on what to look at next?

BINGO! problem solved! It was the no.1 intake tappet/lifter. Timing belts all over the world can sleep soundly now that my car is not killing anymore of them.

I just ran it for an hour, ran great, hit the gas, timing belt slipped. The bently manual calls for 20 ft lbs. The PG engine will not bend valves if the timing belt fails. I am going to try new lifters with another timing belt, and a different torque wrench.

The belt stops at the crank pulley, both times the cam would spin freely with the stripped belt. So that rules out a seized cam. Seized tappet could most certainly be the culprit. I put it all back together again, starts right up, runs below 2k rpm wonderfully. Kind of afraid to hit the gas pedal this time.

The engine runs fine below 2k rpm. The tension is set by the bently manual. Both were new timing belts, and yes the teeth come off. Everything spins fine by hand. I have already gone back and looked at all the cam bearing caps, they all look good. If it did not run at all I would agree that the cam might be binding or is seized, but that is not the case, this starts right up.

Ok, so the G60 is all back together with the exception of the super charger. It starts and idles fine, but as soon I try to give it throttle the timing belt strips? I have been through two timing belts now, and don't want to waste another one. Here is what I think it might be; because the super charger is not installed, and I have the oil line plugged. I am thinking that because there is no where for the oil to go, the lifters are overcharging? So they are stalling the cam when I accelerate? Anyone have any experience with this?

Well the simple chore of swaping out a blown head gasket turned into a complete engine rebuild. Turns out there were two cracked pistons and four broken compression rings. All the parts are here now, just waiting on the good used pistons from a nice gent in Michigan who gave me a great a deal on what look like good pistons. The block and head are back from the machinist. The block was deglased and re cross-hatched for the new rings. The head recieved a complete valve job and resurface on all gasket surfaces. Should be up and running well soon. Keep you posted, Dodger

During my engine rebuild I found cracks in all of my pistons, so I need to replace them. Just trying to save some money over a new set if possible. Thanks, Dodger

Good luck with it, can't wait to get mine back in!

Thanks, I will order one tonight!

After removing the head and finding the head gasket was bad, I decided to go ahead and freshen up the rest of the engine. Here is what I am replacing; piston rings all gaskets all seals MLS metal head gasket new head bolts valve stem seals re-crosshatch the cylinder walls crank bearings connecting rod bearings water pump timing belt tensioner spark plugs (again) woodruff keys The head is at the machine shop. The pistons cleaned up rather well and the cylinders walls look great. Am I forgetting to replace anything?

[ATTACH=CONFIG]61281[/ATTACH] So here it is! Glad to hear that it is normal. I just looked in the Bently manual, and it only shows the four caps as well. So all is well!

[ATTACH=CONFIG]61273[/ATTACH] So I pulled off the head last night to find that it was leaking between the no. 3 and no. 4 cylinders. Turns out that the previous owner had replaced the gasket with a Felpro composite gasket rather than the MLS one that should be on it. Also the head bolts were fairly loose around the no. 4 cylinder. Parts on order, and I will drop the head off at a machinist after work today. Also I noticed the cam shaft does not have a bearing cap between the no. 3 and no. 4 cylinder? It the surface is not even machined and drilled for one? Is this normal? I will post a pic of it after my break. Dodger

[ATTACH=CONFIG]61101[/ATTACH]Thanks, my plan is to pull the head today, and give it all a good looksie. I am figuring maybe the number 4 (my lowest compression) is leaking into the oil return channels (causing the high crankcase pressure). I used a bore scope to inspect the cylinder walls and valves, they look good. I will let you know what I find.

Well I am pretty sure this means rebuild or new engine. At idle (very rough and surging) I have 7 in/hg and blue smoke out the tail. If I remove the pcv from the valve cover it smoke like an old coal train. The mechanical timing is spot on as well as ignition timing. The compression is coming in around 128 avg. Any ideas?

The o2 sensor did the trick, starts and runs now, and not fouling plugs every five minutes. It is still having trouble idling and when at speed the power randomly cuts out. If I let off the pedal all the way and get back on it, the power comes back. Bad throttle position micro switches? Is there a way to adjust the idle mixture? Oh yeah, the super charger is removed and bypassed while it is being rebuilt.

Well mine car does not call for a post cat sensor. Just one sensor on the inlet flange of the cat. Right now there is no O2 sensor!

I can understand removal of the "restrictive" cat, but the 02 sensor is part of the fuel injection system!