Monoboy

Cheers, I will take a look.

Hi all, I know this is a bit of a 'how long is a piece of string' question, but I was just taking the old C out for a spin before a guy comes round to look at buying it tomorrow, and wouldn't you know, it's just started misfiring. It's dark now so I haven't yet investigated very far. I know the obvious culprits - plugs, HT leads, MAF, etc., but I was wondering if anyone could help me narrow it down. In particular the fact that it runs fine above 2000rpm, but loses a cylinder (or maybe 2) at any throttle openings below that engine speed. Does this suggest any particular faults over the others? Thanks in advance. -Dave PS It's sad to say, but I just want rid of it now, it's niggles like this that have made me want to sell her.

I've done a little aerodynamics in my time, so here goes... yes, the spoiler is just that, it spoils the otherwise smooth air that would create lift. Simplified: air going over the top of a smoothly rounded car has more distance to travel than that travelling underneath, hence it goes faster to keep up, hence it becomes less dence and sucks the body underneath it (be it aeroplane wing or Audi TT) upwards into its place. The spoiler destroys this smooth flow of air (you can see the vortices it's producing in the above pic on the right), reducing lift, at the expense of increased drag. It does not create downforce, the car will not be made to weigh more than its static mass, it just makes it less light. Undoubtably the Corrado spoiler will have an effect, but by how much is debatable. The fact that on different models it comes up at very different speeds is a clue; surely the aerodynamics are the same for all cars, and hence there'd be an optimum speed that the spoiler should raise for all. These differences suggest it's mainly cosmetic. Personally I find it's quite useful that it comes down, for reversing if nothing else... As for the TT debate, I understand that they were all recalled for aerodynamic AND suspension tweaks, both designed to better tie down the rear end. The TT is a failrly convincing aerofoil section in shape (far more so than a Corrado), so it will generate lift. However, the consus from people who know driving (such as Evo magazine) was that the original, uncorrected TT felt safe anyway and handled better than the duller-handling update. Just how many cars are completely safe to be 'thrown' into corners at three-figure speeds anyway? Is a Corrado?

Do you guys use proper high temperature grease, or just any old stuff?

Ah, that'll be the problem then - over-tightening the nut... Thanks for all the advice and comments. I used GSF bearings and plenty of grease, but plenty of torque as well, so I reckon the thing overheated and went a bit Chernobyl on me. And yes, MikeVR6, it's my own fault for getting help from that dodgy Saab-driving character. I took one look at his Dell-boy jacket and knew I shouldn't trust him! Since I did both wheels, I shall be checking the torque of the other side as well! I was planning on changing the whole lot on the failed side at least, partly because bits are friction welded to the stub-shaft, and also because we do a lot of engineering theory (though obviously not enough!) where I work and I've seen plenty of failed bearings and the effect they have when they're on the way out. Well, I've learned the hard way! If only I'd had a Haynes manual...

Hmmm. My right-rear wheel (i eventually worked out) started making some very odd squeeking sounds recently. I immediately stopped, jacked up the car, pulled the wheels off and generally checked everything was ship-shape, which it was. However, over the next 80 or so miles on the way home this got steadily worse (and I drove steadily slower and got out and checked things more often), until, about 2 miles from home, it was sounding excruciating and I started to get interesting rear-wheel steering effects. Requiring opposite lock to maintain a straight line was not ammusing, but by this stage I was resigned that whatever was broken (probably a bearing) is now properly broken, so I grit my teeth and limped on. I made it back in one (wonky) piece). Removing the wheel I found that, to my horror, only the brake caliper was stopping the disc (and hence the wheel) from sliding off the stub axle. What was more amusing was the state of the bearings, which I found in pieces fused together in various places around the disc hub, along with a quanitity of ejected grease. Obviously I have had a catastrophic bearing failure, and it has gradually destroyed itself over the journey. I now havebits of bearing race friction welded to the stub axle, and a brake discs that has been ground away partially by the metal parts of the caliper (god bless it!). I recently changed all the discs, pads, and - crucially - rear wheel bearings! I have had 500 problem-free miles (until now!), but I realise the problem is due to something I have done. The thing is, what? I will have to change the stub axle, bearings, disc (it could be salvageable but I think it will be easier to get a new one) and consequently pads. Which is a bugger. Any ideas? Could it have anything to do with the torque value of the centre nut? What torque value should I use (I just guessed)? Enjoy the pics. -Dave

£19 seems amazingly cheap, not that I'm complaining! Cheers all.

My left indicator light is cracked and is full of brown muck which doesn't look brilliant. Additionally, that indicator has now stopped working intermitantly so I've finally been spurred into action. But: How do I get the indicator out? Also: How much does a new unit cost, roughly? Curse Haynes and their laziness! Cheers, -Dave

My stock VR6's Speedlines are looking a bit shabby, I'm not happy with the standard rubber's performance, and I've noticed some very smart looking Corrados about rolling on 16"s wheels of various varieties. So methinks it's time to replace the ol castors with some new ones. To my eyes 15"s are too small, 17"s too 'max power', but 16"s are just right. However, I've never really 'modded' a car and haven't a clue what to look for in wheels. I don't want to touch the suspension just yet, but in the future I may opt to alter the handling with coilovers (and consequently lower by 30 or 40mm or so - but certainly not 'slamming' it). I'm also keen not to upset the effective gearing (and hence speedo calibration and accelerative perfromance) by changing the overall tyre diameter drastically. This might be a bit 'how long is a piece of string', but what figures am I looking for in a wheel and tyre? What fits and what doesn't? Is it normal to go for a lower profile tyre when increasing the diameter of the wheel? Also, what rubber do people recommend? I'm not particularly happy with the Goodyears on mine, they break traction more easily than other, more powerful cars I've experienced that are similarly front-wheel driven and on 205mm-wide rubber. I've heard good things about Michelin. Finally, wheels. I'd like to stick to something in the same vein as the standard speedlines, i.e. 5-point stars or similar. Borbet Cs look cool, any other recommendations? Thanks, -Dave

No, I've connected it up right, there's little 'braun - ' and '+' markings on the resister pack that with my limited knowledge of Saxon points me to the brown and red wires as appropriate. Oh well, I'll drown it in WD40 and throw it down the stairs a few times, and if it still doesn't work I'll get a new mk2 job. Where's a good place for ordering these things? Euro Car Parts?

I'm having the first taste of Corrado 'character': This week, the blower thermal resistor went. Today the knob for seat back angle adjustment fell off, and then the plastic cover that sits over the door locking mechanism made a break for freedom as well! Why are bits falling off my car!? Anyway, the seat knob is screwed back on, the plastic lock mechanism cover is glued and I've changed the thermal resister, however...:- Last week the cabin blower ran fine. This week it ran fine but only on speed 4. Now, fuse changed, it works on all settings but makes a new, horrid, noise. I know I could just buy a new fan unit, but considering it worked fine last week and has only become noisy since I fiddled with it, I'm sure I can repair it and save a few bob. I've probably just dislodged a bit of grit into the bearings or something. But I can't seem to get into the fan housing to strip and clean the motor. Has anyone stripped one of these, if so could you tell me how? I'm always warey of appying brute force to these things without knowing what I should be pulling apart from where. Thanks, -Dave

Cheers! Jeez this forum is handy. Who needs a Haynes manual when you have this kind of support.

Does anyone know how to get the plastic handbrake handle thingy off? I'm talking about the plastic grip surrounded in leather. I need to get it off (I presume) to fit a new bit of plastic trim that covers the metal lever parts further down. But for the life of me I can't work out how I get the handle off! Any clues? -Dave

Finally fitted the loom this afternoon, with no probs. I disconnected the dim-dip resister as instructed, even though it seemed to have no effect. I have to say I'm impressed with the item and results. Haven't driven at night yet but even just shining the lights into the garage they are noticeably brighter, a much whiter light. Am about to commence a proper test drive this evening. Cheers Gavin!

Cool. Seems like the exact route of the loom isn't important then, provided it's properly secured. Will do that. Will improvise with the relays. Wasn't sure if they needed to be properly screwed down to pass an MOT or something. Thanks for the help all. Re the dim-dip, that's the thing in the inside front of the driver's side wing, yellow connectors going into the coil? I assume that's what it is, and that I will need to disconnect it, but my headlights don't seem to be on when sidelights are on though. Is this deffinitely dim-dip (it's a '95 VR6). Soz for the dumb questions! -Dave

Having bought one of Gav's spanking new headllight looms, I tried to fit it today. I wasn't sure where to route the cable to the offside light though. I think the original loom goes behind a panel I can only access by taking the bumper unit off - can anyone tell me how to do this (really wish there was a Haynes manual now!), if indeed this is the best way to do it. Also, where/how have people mounted the relays, or do you just leave them flapping about near the battery? I'm aware dozens of you have already fitted the new loom, I'd appreciate some tips as to how you did yours. -Dave PS I was more successful with new Lupo GTi wipers, they're excellent!

Went for the BMC one in the end. Will let everyone know what it's like when I fit it. Thanks for the advice all.

Hello all, 2 weeks of Vr6 ownership, no speeding tickets yet! Loving it. Want to fiddle though. Am going to get an induction kit. I want a bit more noise, but not a lot, I don't want to sound Max Power and so am put off by the K&N and the like. Also not keen on putting a cone filter right next to a baking hot engine like most of the basic induction kits. So I've been looking at Turn2, the BMC one with the carbon can around the cone, and the RamAir (Pro-Ram I think), which take air from a better place altogether. Turn2 seems great but is pricey. The only thing that puts me off the other 2 is that they don't specifically do a Corrado VR6 model, usually just the golf VR6. Is this an issue, are these things easy enough to fit in a Corrado? I don't want to have to fabricate parts or mes about, I just want to bolt it in. Any thoughts? What have the rest of you done? PS I know induction kits have been mentioned to death but I want a more sophisticated sound (ie not too noisy) and actually a few bhp more, so it's different to most of the other threads....

I just bought a VR6 - perfect timing by the looks of it! Luckily Top Gear have just confirmed I've made the right choice!

I found some ones on the Awesome GTi site, they're not 100% original but look ok. They don't have the black backing of the originals. http://www.awesome-gti.co.uk/badges.html The Trimsport ones look dodgy (http://www.trimsport.co.uk/html/badges.html). Or could you give me a link to an official parts supplier? Tries Euro Car Parts but no good.

Does anyone know if these would fit? Though obviously not on the front/back. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... egory=9889

Thanks for the info. Will check for 5-stud wheels... good thinking! Would an HPI check highlight it being a non VR6?

Ah-ha, I see. I know it's probably discussed at length in other threads, but just quickly, what do you reckomend, suspension-wise? Looking at the pic of your storm, it looks good, and that must be down to the lowering if you're running on 15"s. Though I'm not up for go-cart handling. Far as I'm concerned, if a car's so stiff it bumps all over the place then that's no good to me, some compliance is required to keep the wheels touching the road!

PS offered seller £4500, from asking price of £5000, seller says he'll think about it, I reckon he'll do a man from Del Monte and say yes. Not too bothered if he says no, there are others around.

Thanks for the welcome, wasn't expecting responses so soon! The one I drove today is high mileage but the price reflects it, and it's been well looked after so it shouldn't be an issue. 112K, 1995, no leather or aircon but mint condition. Blackberry colour, which I think looks ace. The Speedlines it has are really top dollar condition but just look too small. 17"s a tad too large for my liking, and I'm not prepared to compromise the ride/handling for rubber band tyres, but 16"s look about right I reckon. Perhaps the 15"s will grow on me... First Corrado I've driven, it felt good, FSH, no rattles, pulled hard, just serviced, clean oil, year's MOT. Love the torquey pull of the engine, and the sound! Blinked and I was doing 100mph on the test drive. I think with the induction kit and maybe an exhaust (though I might wait until the current one needs replacing) it should sound awesome. I think I'm smitten! So the 15"s are standard, I assume 16"s were optional. Does anyone know what the normal tyre sizes (ie profile) for these are?