g60bv

i have always run toyo proxies. i find them excelent in the rain. but has any one used or seen these.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... &rd=1&rd=1

sorry its an ebay link. i'm not promoting. just inquiring.

sorry haven't read all of topic. have you had the injectors checked.?

agreed a write off. but say to them them that you can source the parts. bumpers and wings ect if they can fix the rear quarter, (the tricky bit) and paint it. they may say yes. may not.

try to come to an agreement that if you can get the bits to fix and they may pay you an 'amount' to get iit fix and it may save it from being a cat d wite off. which will affect its value 'if' it ever does get fixd.

i had a small smash. front os wing and door. and they wrote it off. i said absolutly no way. - your right to. they gave me 1900 to get the parts and paint it. always haggle with the out come. but they will pick the car up. take it away to check it. can take up to a month! then either deliver it back to you and may take it to a secure lock up and a salvage yard to wait your outcome.

do not let them write it off. argu the fact that you can get secondhand parts at a fraction of the cost which you can supply etc

and good luck.

tt comps are cheap ish and will fit over your brakes with no probs.

where is the handbrake mech.?

i ran them on mine with 20mm spacers on 205 40 tyres and they just rubbed on the rear. but this a g60 dont the vrs have a wider track on the back.?.

so may be.?

and yes can take monster brakes. i'm going over to the leon 323's soon.

they fit straight on vr hubs.

and look sweet doing it.

but for every one. you must use new flywheel bolts. and torque them. i failed to do this on my engine and now its in bits. in less than 1000 miles it worked lose and shook by bottom end to distruction. you have been warned!!!

what if they earthed out the live from the starter. could that have caused some electrical damage somewhere..?

in that case rpm in kent will do n/a heads for about 350. best hand porter around these parts.

cnc heads are the best for money. by far.

well after not doing the flywheel bolts up to the correct nm setting . the flywheel came loose and shook my engine to bits. complete rebuild. £1500. so yeah if its says x nm do it..

thats one of the reasons i haven't put the 312 tt discs on, -still sitting in the garage. keeping the 305 discs, they are 28mm thick, 312's are 25mm

i have some 312 disc which i was going to use, but the et is out quite a away. which will mean the calipers need to out further. and then either spacers . or something.

yeah but AP racing brakes are 'the' dogs dangly bits.

If you use vr bearing housings on a narrow wishbone, the wheel will not be centered in the wheel arch. Been there done it. Changed to a narrow track to fit porsche wheels and brembos. Vr on narrow wishbones. Wheel sits 40 mill back. g60 on wide wishbones. 40 mill forward. Just change the cv and hub for 5 stud.[/quote

 

 

thats all you have to do.. as illustrated

i'm using 305 on my g60 which i converted to 5 stud. see pics

http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=39999

i drilled the discs. but will your calipers take a 28mm disc or are the brembos 32mm. ??

if your having to use adaptor then an et like 43 is ok. you will get rubbing if you use adaptors and then et of 35-. but if you convert your hubs to 5 stud then you can run lots of different wheels like the audi tt comp

http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=39999

check the blue temp sensor off the front of the head.

i will have a spare one but not for a few weeks, but the very picture you have there is a chap in germany called deniss. look up the part on ebay.de he can send to the uk to. but paying him can be tricky. i have send euros in an envelope before.

just interested. but how many rallyes are there left world wide. was it 500 thay made or 5000.

only found another one trashed.

:oops:

ok daz. i've been wrong on a few things on cars recently. :cry:

ooooh. er no.

only check the push bearings on the mount. when you do the bolts up these will be pushed back and reset in there normal postion.

just unplug the hall sensor. and spark plugs to remove spark and compression. turn over for 30 seconds. remove the water cap, install the sparks ang hall sender. fire up the engine. squeese the water hose off the rad and leav engine to warm up, 10 mins. check the water temp, as the rads can get air locked. don't let it to over heat as it could knacker the temp sensors.

hay hay. its been found, i thought this was lost. i couldn't find this on a search.