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edd

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Posts posted by edd

  1. Posted

    Makes sure you got something supporting the engine when you are fiddling about under it trying to sort this. Once those are out there are only two little bolts holding the front subframe in place

     

     

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  3. Posted

    I didn't get anywhere other than mk3 highline saying he could not help me any further (who I bought them through)

     

    I didn't actually take it direct to bilstein as I figured from the various other discussion I had seen on the net that the time, effort and demoralisation (sure that is not a word but you know what I mean) was probably more than I could stand and would be easier to just buy some new springs.

     

    Aside of that house project has taken over my life

     

    I have got a set of used h&r springs that I was considering trying with with the bilstein dampers if I find time and inclination

     

    With the front lowering caps mine is pretty level. My

    Concern was whether it is a little more crashy than it should be on the rear, but without a comparator it is hard to tell

     

     

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  4. Posted

    Haha, that was more like 10-15 years ago, I've been living in Cornwall for 12 years and it was a fair while before I moved, time fly's!

     

    Haha god so true, well I have been a member in here since 2003 which was when I started this bloody love affair....

     

     

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  7. Posted

    Ok. So you would glue both CDX to concrete subfloor and oak to CDX?

     

    Adding the 18mm CDX helps in this case as it brings up the sub floor level to match the tile height. The 16mm of the engineer oak flooring on top will then bring the flooring level with the threshold of bifold doors I have had installed which is what we want.

     

     

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  8. Posted

    Hi all

     

    Bit off topic but I know us corrado owners are a devil with the detail and a practical bunch

     

    Though some of you maybe just have the knowledge I need and be willing to spread your wisdom

     

    I am due to install circa 50m2 of 16mm engineered oak flooring (woodpecker flooring) at home. It is at ground floor level (but circa 12 inches above external floor level) on a concrete slab (part of which definitely has a integral DPM course and insulating layer) that was poured approx 10 years ago. When I lifted the previous laminate flooring there was a felt type underlay with a plastic membrane underneath. There was ZERO evidence of damp whatsoever and my (budget range) damp meter records little to/no damp.

     

    Part of the room (circa 15m2) is already tiled with a limestone/travertine type flooring. For various reasons I wish to bring the overall height of the finished floor level up so I will be part laying the new floor over the existing tiles. To do this I am also building up the area of flooring without the tiles with 18mm CDX which matches the finished level of the tiles.

     

    The non tiled area of floor has been self levelled circa 4 weeks ago.it Probably required up to about 5mm self levelling in places, but now has a good level throughout.

     

    My preference (I think)is to screw 16mm CDX to subfloor and the glue engineered oak (T&G) to CDX rather than float it.

     

    What are your opinions on the best methodology/fixing for CDX to concrete subfloor and engineered oak to CDX

     

    I have spoken with manufacturer but they were fairly open ended in their recommendations

     

    I don't wish to glue to CDX subfloor to self levelled floor in case we make changes in the future (I.e. Change to a tiled floor) and I have a floor full of edhesive to deal with

     

    Thanks in advance

     

    Edd

     

     

     

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  10. Posted

    So noticed that my HT leads have melted or something? Very odd they weren't cheap ones either, but can't remember which ones they were

     

    Any ideas?

     

    5fedffd3099681ae72fff27026567018.jpg

     

     

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  13. Posted

    Hi All,

     

    Just putting in an order to VW Heritage, does anyone know if the Mk2 to Mk4 Goodridge hose kit is okay, they are advised online as being 230mm in length.

     

    https://www.vwheritage.com/wc69805062p-goodridge-stainless-brake-hoses-mk2-golf-to-mk4-rear-calipe

     

    i have asked the VW Heritage team who have advised they can get custom ones made up for same price if not compatible, but no need if these are sufficient

     

    Anyone used them?

     

    Edd

  21. Posted · Edited by edd

    Are these the VR6 ones. Edit: they are just read your post properly.

     

    Do you know if anyone has run the h&r's with the bilstein dampers that come with the bilstein B12 kit.

     

    Let me know if you end up splitting

     

    I had h&r springs with Koni ta's on a previous car and loved them and I unfortunately ended up with one of the dodgy set of eibach springs on my bilstein b12 set

     

     

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  25. Posted · Edited by edd

    Ok so got them pretty much in. Worked off a post from kev haywire saying 270 degrees so that the slits in the bush are vertical which works out about 15 degrees from the horizontal plane of the beam (if that makes Sense)

     

    Anyhow next question. How far should they be pushed in? I'm sure I saw a post somewhere saying be careful not to go in too far, can't check how they were to start as the original beam is still on car? ebb71ee2bf4d0e6851379b0bc79934d7.jpg

     

     

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