bigbluec

Did a quick search but couldn't find anything maybe used the wrong terms? But was wondering how hard it would be to retrofit a new wiper stalk from say a mk4 golf (retaining MFA functions) that allows you to change the time delay on the intermittent wiper mode? Cheers for any ideas Will

Hi, Not sure if it's the same on the Vr but my Valver was doing this last year should be a thread somewhere on it? But it was being caused by a sensor located on the top left corner of the rocker cover coming loose and grounding itself against the block. Not sure what the sensor is called but it was cyclindrical and about the size of a chubby thumb! (from tip to knuckle) technical i know :wink: but i'm sure someone with a bit more technical jargon knowledge can tell you! Will

Spied a black G60/Vr6 on M3 westbound last night 8pm ish ROD *** Had a little play but too much traffic so stayed in convoy, any takers?

My 89 8v Golf was Digi 1

Cheers guys, Yeah all pipes thoroughly cleaned and all in v.good nick may think about a catch tank as that would be an easy fix. Any more suggestions welcome!

Hi Guys, This has happened a couple of times now on my 1.8 valver KR but the top pipe going to the airbox from the block seem to be spewing (small amounts) of oil on top of the air filter and in turn finding it's way to the intake causing the odd puff of smoke. Firstly i thought this was a suction hose?? The engine has never been overfilled with oil and i've cleaned out all the relevant pipes which sorts the problem for a month or so, so what's causing it??? Cheers in advance guys

Cheers RW1 thought it might be the stereo as i'd fitted new speakers and wiring in the front but it turns out that there's a leak in the boot which has got to the spoiler electrics causing it. Just need a slightly drier day to sort it out! The hard acceleration in second would also tie it to the spoiler as when it hit 50 it activated the spoiler circuit!

Yeah forgot to mention spoiler! Any ideas?

Hi Guys, The C has been on good behaviour for months! but this week has decided to blow the same fuse twice, the fuse covers the fuel/temp gauge, rev counter MFA and warning lamps. both times its been when i've nailed it in second gear is it a voltage controller playing up or something else? The C's a 1990 1.8 KR if that makes any difference to the wiring loom? Cheers in advance....

JT You can't be trusted to own another C! all you do is phone me up to fix it or moan then sell it!! I think the best thing for your abilities as a mechanic would be a 2cv :D

Cheers Boj! I've always used Silicone spray on it, normally once a month. But the thing is it's almost like a circuit breaker popping effect! if you know what i mean?! you press it it works then stops press it again and it works. So was wondering if the controller or relay was on its way out?

Hi Guys...and Girls, Sorry for yet another spoiler question but i have read every single post in the search section using spoiler+relay and none seem to relate to my problem, so here goes. My spoiler does activate itself at sbout 50 as it should but doesn't always go fully up or always go completely down. The manual switch also works but when you hold it either up or down the spoiler will suddenley stop as if the fuse has blown, if you take your finger off the switch and re-apply it, it will begin to work again. So is it likely that the relay/control module is packing up? Also the spoiler is well lubed :wink: and clean and no i havent put in a new stereo or played with any blue/white wires!

Thanks for all the help guys, especially Gavin! It's back on the road now woo hoo! :D done a 100 miles gently below 3k rpm And will prob take it easy for the next 3-400. I also changed the oil pump as a precaution as i noticed it had got tappety leading up to the knocking big ends and now that has completely stopped! So touch wood all is good......... Until 5 minutes ago when i noticed the spoiler has started playing up! :evil:

Cheers Guys, So if the conrod bolts push in how do i extract the bolt? Its problems like this that make me hate my car!

Well after dropping the sump and replacing the shells I've got one left to do as one of the conrod bolts snapped :cry: And now it turns out that VW were talking about the crank bolts being £9.46 the conrod bolts and nuts are a mere £5ish quid and will take till tuesday to turn up F*&k$%g stealers! To top it all off, the shells look almost mint and in the sump i found to small shavings of very shiney looking alloy and quite a few bits of what appear to be the remains of a copper washer. So two new questions! 1. Any ideas where the shiney alloy and copper have come from? 2. Which Way do i turn the conrod bold to extract it from the conrod?

Good to see you're alive Nick! May take you up on the VDO but definitely will on the beer! I'll give you a call..... Nice rims by the way. By the way gavin was going to replace the bolts but they're £9.46 each :shock:

Well I've decided to go for the bearing replacement this week with oil change and new front engine mount as it is a little tired. So from what you've said Gavin it should be a fairly easy job to drop the sump and one by one replace the shells. Is there anything other than the shell bearing that i should be replacing while i'm there? and if anyone could tell me the torque setting for the crank bolts it would be much appreciated :wink:

For that kind of money i haven't got a lot to lose trying it! The oil is Quantum Silver but is in need of changing as it's done 6k What is the best way to check the oil pump is working ok? Just to clarify the noise is quite a heavy sounding knock knock that will happen if i have the car parked up rev the engine till 4k+ then let off.

Hi Guys, My 1.8 Valver seems to have developed a knocking when i let off from about 4k rpm upward and occasionaly when under load (3rd gear low revs and floored) It sounds like it's coming from the bottom end :cry: (sound very similar to a knackered cv joint but without as many knocks) Any thoughts on it? or what to do to? repair/replace?

I do on my valver and absolutely hate them. I bought the Bilstein Sports last year with the 35/40mm drop and it's the worst damping i have ever encountered. Can't wait to change them.

Huge thanks to Gavin (H100VW) for the lightspeed delivery and easy to understand instructions! Easiest and best mod i've ever done! Anyone who hasn't yet done this headlight upgrade should!

Micheldever Tyres on the A303 has got to be one of the cheapest. From memory late last year Toyo T1S was £48 incl balance, fitting, valves and Tyre disposal. That was for 195/50/15

Any Takers for a Green probably 2.0 16v - L861 MCF on the M6 south bound this evening? stayed in traffic with you for quite a way but too heavy to have a little play :wink:

I had the pleasure of getting mine replaced last year under insurance and i'm sure the guy said there were three different styles of windscreen all costing around the £370 - 400 mark. As for the rubber seals definitely replace them, even if they don't get completely knackered from removing the window you're bound to end up with a nice little leak into your footwells IMHO of course!!

Had this problem with my valver a while ago do a search with my name! after trying new ignition switch and starter i traced it to be the live feed wire to the starter! Try putting an ampmeter to the starter motor end of the positive lead and wiggling it to see if the voltage jumps up and down.... new positive lead from the stealers was a ludicrous £37 :mad: