Mal77

If my abs sensor is gone, can i not just reset it thru VAG COM to get the light disappear? i havent got the funds now to purchase a sensor, but the light is like a UFO in my face, espcially at night,

where can i get hold of cheap fk konigsport coilovers for my VR6? help guys

so its kinda straight forward then? how long if nothing is seized would it take>

My mates got it on a 93 L, We had scanned thru VAG COM and it came up with Lamda sensor out and Knock Sensor out, I got the knock sensor Part Number W054 905 377A, but problem is now where is it located, any help guys? Mal

dr mat where can I get this from? The oil changes dont cost me nothing as he does it at work and dont charge for a thing, believe me even managers take the p*ss at dealerships,

So kev if that the case whats the best way of preventing all that wear during start up, coz I want to preserve this motor,

Twickenham VW, It might sound daft, but doing them regular might save me a lot of money in the future, I know I got a clean engine and it sure is improving the reliability of the engine, which cant be a bad thing now can it?

I have spoken to my mate thats work in a very well known VW dealership, these guys were one of only 2 dealerships that had the first R32 Golf in for sale, so they are big, and he says 0-40, 5-40 are only good for cars like Porsche, Ferrari, Lambo, etc etc, Golfs, Corrado's including VR's, G60's are best to use one grade all year round, he has advised me to use 10/40 Castrol Magnatec, for which he uses in his MK1 Golf 2000cc 16 Valve, which is one of the fastest on the roads, The best way to maintain the engine is regular oil and filter changes, I know it might sound too much, but I do a oil change every 1000 miles, and filter every 6000 miles, my mileage during the year is just under 6K, Hope this info helps guys.

I know the golf MK 2 16 Valve has a timing belt and chain, is this the same for the corrado engine? This refers to the 2 Litre engine and not the 1.8 Corrado.

Is it poss, or has it been done to put in a Audi TT engine into a Rado 16 Valve motor, original 2000 cc on a 93 L? Have heard just need a new ECU and uprated brakes, but other than that its a straight swap, wots the verdict guys?

Works now and then regardless of how much petrol is in there, used VAG COM just now but nothing has come up, could I be suspecting Fuel Pump Sender Unit? ne info guys? I have tried cleaning out the connectors to the sender unit, but still the same :(

cheers guys

cheers, do you know if its the OBD connector or the 2 by 2 pin? cox they only sent OBD in the post,

just purchased this and got it all loaded on my laptop, but where is the diagnostic socket, got my neighbours L (93) C 2.0 16Valve, and mine VR6 M (94), are they both in the same places or diff? help would be most appriecated.

cheers mate, I was a bit dubious about letting the car run for too long, dont think the VR6 was meant to idle for that long period of time, I always make a habit of racing after it hits 80 deg on oil mfa, is that enuff or shold it be higher?

I have read different opinions, should my VR6 be warmed up from idel for 5-10 minutes and when it get to 60 degrees oil, then and only then be driven away, or should I start it up let the auto choke cut out and when its idling under 1000 rpm, drive away under 2000 rpm and let it reach 60 degress oil before putting foot down? so confused, whats the best for the engine?

Is it wise to supercharge a C VR6, I got another coming and would be very interested if the gains are in your face :?:

Yes most dealerships do this, even GSF car parts have this policy on all genuine and non-genuine filters, they supply sump nut washer, p.s make sure you put a dash of oil or the new filter seal on top side, ensure it has a firm fit, and fill it up with fresh oil, I hate people putting in new filters that are empty, its not good for the engine,

59000 was 54k when i bought it march 03, its a weekend only car, but boy are the w/ends fun

On my Vr6 Wot is more suitable taking into consideration, I want engine to stay reliable and trouble free a) A Turbo b) A supercharger Wots more responsive out of them, and what more economic?

Im new on here cant use the forum as well as u guys,

thats how I got to know them, via a column in the magazine, its only after having used them I have posted on here

Well they charge £36 a hour for labour, I had a Inspection 1 service for only £115, which is a lot lower than most places, and a 3 piece Clutch fitted with new gearbox oil supply and fit for £200. I got quoted from once place £180 for the labour alone on the clutch. From them it worked out £110 Labour £80 Clutch £10 Gearbox Oil

not really as I dont know much about cars apart from driving my storm, was supposed to pm someone else, got you by mistake, no need to get touchy m8. I just happened to have been to this place via PVW magazine and thought other members would appreciate my findings!!!

Just been thru Performance VW magazine and in the tuners guide came across Custom Service and Tyres Rear of 165 North Hyde Road Hayes Middlesex UB3 4NS 020 8573 0414 mailto:[email protected] They service, repair, bodywork, MOT's and VAG COM Diagnostic Approved, they very good, just thought I would pass on my information.