Changed water pump.....now more probs

[mrbeige 0]

Water pump bearings are on the way out by the sounds of things and things seem to be hotting up a bit, so just ordered water pump from GSF and was wondering how long to change and how much of a b1tch it is to do? Never done one before! :(

[chrishill 0]

funny you should start this thread, i was going to ask the same thing! mines not making too many 'strangled cat' type noises yet but its getting there.

[davidwort 0]

funny you should start this thread, i was going to ask the same thing! mines not making too many 'strangled cat' type noises yet but its getting there.

 

Not fun, you need to remove the PS pump from it's mounting(swing it out of the way) and alternator and the heavy bracket bolted to the block under that, then the pump is under that lot. It's pretty much all a bunch of 13mm and 17mm nuts and bolts but fairly time consuming (the ps bracket is a pain as at least one bolt is hidden inside it)

 

You will then have to remove the waterpump pulley from the pump itself, I'd suggest investing in an allen key socket for this 6mm I think.

 

You might as well replace the thermostat housing seal and thermostat while you're at it too.

 

Buy a complete pump, not just the impeller, not worth it for saving a tenner.

 

Then it's the usual bleeing air from the system as you fill it back up.

 

I'd allow 2 or 3 hours if you've not done it before.

 

David.

[mrbeige 0]

Not fun, you need to remove the PS pump from it's mounting(swing it out of the way) and alternator and the heavy bracket bolted to the block under that, then the pump is under that lot. It's pretty much all a bunch of 13mm and 17mm nuts and bolts but fairly time consuming (the ps bracket is a pain as at least one bolt is hidden inside it)

 

You will then have to remove the waterpump pulley from the pump itself, I'd suggest investing in an allen key socket for this 6mm I think.

 

You might as well replace the thermostat housing seal and thermostat while you're at it too.

 

Buy a complete pump, not just the impeller, not worth it for saving a tenner.

 

Then it's the usual bleeing air from the system as you fill it back up.

 

I'd allow 2 or 3 hours if you've not done it before.

 

David.

 

Bugger, not the sort of job to do outside after work in the dark then? Needs to be on axle stands as well then?

[aclwalker 3]

Here's a post of mine from a while back on the Yahoo group, describing how I did this job, without disconnecting anything except for two engine mounts and a few other bits and pieces. It didn't cost much either and involved a garden spade too...

 

I replaced my water pump and front and rear engine mounts today in a

very successful 5 hour operation. This time included at least 5

complete soakings from the p*sh west of Scotland weather and also a

trip to Halfords to buy a bottle jack.

 

I have the following tips for anyone wishing to attempt this job:

 

1 It IS possibile to do this at home. You will need at least two

good socket sets (to double up the extension bars etc), a bottle jack

to jack up the engine, a full complement of replacement bolts for the

mounts, water pump and pulley.

 

2 You don't need to disconnect the gearbox mount. I had had mine

replaced by a garage a short while ago anyway, but I found that by

leaving this connected it was possible to pivot the engine upwards by

jacking carefully with a bottle jack under a sort of eye hook just in

front of the sump. I found no other way of jacking up because the

sump covers the whole of the underside of this part of the engine and

it just wouldn't take the weight. The bottle jack cost £11 from

Halfords and was well worth the money.

 

3 You don't need to disconnect the exhaust like the Bentley manual

says. Just get someone else to carefully jack the engine up (with

both engine mounts disconnected and the gearbox mount still connected

while you watch for clearance between the downpipe and the body. Do

not allow these to meet. You should be able to take off the pulley

and withdraw the pump with a little final push.

 

4 I actually used a garden spade, believe it or not, to prise the

old pump away from the block and break the seal!

 

5 Remove the air cleaner and the concertina pipe between this and

the throttle body for access to the rear mount. If the gearbox mount

is to be removed then I guess it should be possible to remove the

header tank temporarily to get a straight line down to this. The

plastic hand-guard for the radiator fans can also be removed for

similar access to the front mount.

 

My rear mount was compressed about 1 cm compared to the new one while

the front was almost 2 cms more compressed. They were in need of

replacement. The water pump had virtually seized. I could hardly

turn it by hand. I stopped driving it last week because it was

literally jumping around on its bearings.

 

All in all I spent about £80 for the two mounts, £14 for a new ribbed

belt, £30 for the pump and about £5 for various bolts and nuts.

Adding the jack in totalled not far off £150. I shudder to think

what a garage, or even worse, a dealer would have charged for this

job.

 

I would say that a competant home mechanic could do this job fairly

easily with a good set of tools and a helper in places.

 

Alan

[davidwort 0]

 

Bugger, not the sort of job to do outside after work in the dark then? Needs to be on axle stands as well then?

 

you need to get underneath for the PS pump tensionner bracket bolts, I've never reached them from above.

 

David.

[mrbeige 0]

Ok, going to attempt this on Saturday with a mate of mine, with axle stands and jack! No trying it at night :!:

[mrbeige 0]

Right, I fitted my new water pump on Saturday, took me about 2 1/2 hours 8)

 

Now my C runs hotter, water temp gauge reads around 95degC, whereas before it read 82-85degC, oil is hotter too! I bled the water system, ran it with the top off the expansion tank until the fan kicked in. It was a pump from GSF, with new thermostat and seal/gaskets.

 

Why would it run hotter? :? :?

[Henny 0]

how much antifreeze have you put in there? A different %age mix could change the temps by that much with no problems...

[mrbeige 0]

Mmmm about 50% antifreeze, and 50% water. Is that what I should have done?

 

Also, I appear to have sprung a leak, just notice it tonight. The small angled hose that goes between the top rad house (joined next to the head) and the oil cooler appears to have a split in it where it reduces in size. Could anyone with ETKA please sort me a part number.

 

Could anything else go wrong......maybe I shouldn't say that!

[mrbeige 0]

Just ordered hose from Vindis in Cambridge, and managed to get 10% off!! £33 which I thought wasn't too bad! 8) Just trying to recoup the extortional amount of money that they charged me for changing the core plug!! :mad:

[Henny 0]

the leak could well be upping the temp slightly...

 

Oh, and I usually use a 1/3 antifreeze mix 'cos it never really gets cold in the UK...

[mrbeige 0]

the leak could well be upping the temp slightly...

 

Oh, and I usually use a 1/3 antifreeze mix 'cos it never really gets cold in the UK...

 

So, what would cause an increase in temp? More water than before, or more antifreeze/summer coolant? The leak is only tiny to be fair, and I don't think its been there long, as I drove 170miles before I double checked the belt tightness and noticed the leak.

[Henny 0]

more antifreeze would cause the temps to go up slightly. A small leak will de-pressurise the system which means that the coolant isn't as efficient as when it's pressurised so that'd add a couple of degrees onto the temps too...

 

also, when did you last change the coolant temp sensor? It's possible that they dried out as you did the waterpump and have gone a little titsup since... may be worth slinging a new one in as they're only a few quid... 8)

[mrbeige 0]

mmmm probably a good plan, I'll ask down the stealer tomorrow, when I pick up the replacement pipe 8)

 

Is the coolant sensor in the side of the block below the distributer?

[Henny 0]

yeah, I think that's it... I'm not too hot on the 2.0 'cos I've never had one... It should be a black 2 pin connector on it, and I think there's a blue one the same close to it too... I'm sure someone who actually knows will clarify this by correcting or agreeing with me! 8)

[mrbeige 0]

Well, for some reason the thermostat doesn't want to open! Gets really hot and then with the top off the expansion tank, boils before the fan cuts in!

 

I think I've got a fecking airlock, and I've tried filling the system through the top hose on the rad. Spent 3 hours last night trying to get it right. :mad:

 

Anyone want to buy a Corrado :mad: :mad:

[davidwort 0]

Well, for some reason the thermostat doesn't want to open! Gets really hot and then with the top off the expansion tank, boils before the fan cuts in!

 

I think I've got a fecking airlock, and I've tried filling the system through the top hose on the rad. Spent 3 hours last night trying to get it right. :mad:

 

Anyone want to buy a Corrado :mad: :mad:

 

I'd check that thermostat in a pan of hot water alongside your old one, check it starts to open at 80 degrees ish. Means taking it all to bits again though :( so I'd make sure you don't have any air in the system first.

Whenever I've bled the valver system it's usually air in the top rad hose that's the problem, once that feels full of water it just needs a small top up after a few miles driving and that's it.

I take it you can feel hot water running through the hoses into the rad when it gets up to temp? - or not, should be able to tell if water is getting past the thermostat properly.

 

David.

[mrbeige 0]

I don't think the water is getting past the thermostat! The bottom hose never gets to the same temp as the top one! Going to get another thermostat from VW today, and some G12 antifreeze!