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MNuTz

ARGH - MOT Failed, need help ASAP!!

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Lo all,

 

Bought a G60 a few months back, its been off the road and stored and i recently thought it was MOT time for it. It failed :( i knew it would but not on what i was told from the garage that mot'd it before i bought it! :roll: :mad:

 

Original garage told me it was a small piece of welding under the radiator and a rusty brake hose.

 

Heres the list of failures and my advice note:

 

MOT Failures

- number plate light not working

- N/S headlight insecure (the bracket is broken)

- N/S headlight aim low

- N/S side indicator not working

- O/S rear indicator not working

 

-O/S N/S front suspension leg tops excessive movement/play

 

- Rear brake load valve seized

- N/S front brake pipe bulged

- Rear brake pipes rusted/weak

 

- Washers/Wipers not working

- Emissions too high - 9%

 

Advice:

- N/S Front tyre low tread

- O/S N/S front rims damaged on inside edges

- Battery loose - insecure (last garage lost the bloody bracket)

- O/S N/S front brake pipe ends rusted

- Water leaks/Fan problem/Temp gauge problem

 

Got an emissions Test result too but gotta go pick it up as he gave me the wrong one!!

 

I need as mush advice as possible regarding the serious stuff including time to fix, how difficult it will be and more importantly cost of doing it myself vs cost of garage doing it!

 

Would it just be easier for me to replace entire brake system with a performance system but keeping disks and pads for a while?

 

HELP :cry:

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Dude, that's a shocker. I have arear bias valve off a G60. Prolly find you a battery clamo too.

The flexy hoses are only about a fiver each from GSF and 2 rolls of copper pipe is about another £30.

Wipers could be the fuse or relay missing maybe?

Fettle the headlight bracket with a bit of ally. That'll cure the aim too most likely.

Leave all the std brakes just replace the pipework. Buy the flaring tool and its a cheap job. Sometimes a bit awkward to get too. I just take them out with a hacksaw. Get yourself some new clip things from dub. The originals will be shagged.

 

Gavin

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I'd be glad to have all those pipes pulled up. Imagine the consequences of missing them?? They would never fail during gentle braking would they.

You wouldn't be too chuffed if he ran into you now would you?

Gavin

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it was my best mates bro-in-law that did the MOT and i asked him to be super strict so i knew exactly where i stood with the car.

 

Any help much appreciated gavin :) (also, how much you chargin for headlight loom?)

 

Mechanic said im looking at supercharger rebuild and head gasket replacement at the very least to decrease emissions. Gwerks for charger. Anything else i should look at doing while im replacing the head gasket or should i just get pros to do gasket and other stuff too?

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I'd have guessed you'd need to sort out spark and lambda probe to fix emissions myself, not sure how much impact the health of the charger has on that..

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N/S side indicator not working - check for crack allowing water in. common fault either empty it and reseal unit or put hole in bottom to allow it to drain ( once you get enough money get a new unit repclace it if you want).

 

N/S headlight insecure (the bracket is broken) - again common bodyweld it (fibreglass stuff used for filling holes can't remember proper name.)

tips hat to h100vw

 

- N/S headlight aim low prob sorted with above mine was. :D

- Washers/Wipers not working - probably working, but not clearing enough away bend them in slightly and put on new blades if needing changed.

 

Rear brake load valve seized - you may be able to rework this. however if its too far gone take them off and replace them (some places offer disc if you take old ones up if your going for new)

 

-O/S N/S front suspension leg tops excessive movement/play - could be anything could just need tightened.

 

- N/S front brake pipe bulged / Rear brake pipes rusted/weak - replac pipes , if its only a flexy they are not a lot of money and relatively easy to do.

 

Emissions too high - 9% - redex? dont think itd reduce it that much and im kinda against the stuff.

 

- Water leaks/Fan problem/Temp gauge problem - check for split hoses possibility of radweld but again im not sure of these products.

 

check the bulbs and fuses for the rest of the lights and as for tyres and rim although replacing a pair is better if the ineer rims arent bad aqnd they'll let it through hows the spare?

 

itd be worth checking the exhaust joins too and for holes.

 

good luck.

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I was planning further down the line to:

 

Replace all bulbs with new ones

 

Replace all hoses possible with performance hoses, and buy new standard ones where needed.

 

Lupo wiper conversion.

 

Its just it was planned over several months but now ive got to get as much cash together as possible :(

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Mnutz,

The brake bias valve could just be stuck- with it being stored for a while. Just free it off and get it moving again. My one was like that and its now OK. If it's still stiff after freeing it, then replace it!

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yup, rear bias valves often stick... soak the bugger in WD40, leave it overnight and then "assist" it in freeing off with the aid of a hammer.... ;) :lol:

 

A full set of Goodridge braided hoses will work out similar price to a full set of VAG flexy hoses and will improve the feel of the brakes.

 

Make up the fixed hoses as Gav suggests.... Did this on my MKII Driver when it failed it's MOT and saved myself nearly £300! 8)

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