Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
bighands

Oil in water and water everywhere. . .

Recommended Posts

Just spoke to the garage, and they 'reckon' the head gasket has gone, think they are talking shite, and 'of the top off his head' A GRAND :shock:

 

WTF!!!!!!!

 

getting it back tonight, and doing the oil cooler, its 2 much of a coincidence the pipe and oil in water at the same time and i will do the head gasket myself at this rate, never done one before, but sure will figure it out! :lol:

 

Said there was high hydrocarbons in the water, but think there trying it on!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

a grand for a head gasket on a 4pot engine?!? WTF?!?

 

Head sets for valvers are about £30, bolts are about the same, coolant will cost about £15, oil about the same... and that's all of the parts you need!

 

At the very worst the head will need a skim, so that's about £150 (on the high end of costs!) and then there's just labour.

 

If the garage can't do the head gasket in a 5 hour labour charge, I wouldn't be going near 'em anyway... :|

 

So you're looking at around £100 on parts, £150 for a skim, and 5x£60 labour = £550 tops... :|

 

Go to another garage mate, they're taking the proverbial! ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

henny`s bang on the price, thats what i paid for mine done a year ago!

 

but if you can have the car off the road for a while which i imagine it is already then have a go at doing it yourself??!!

 

me and a mate changed the head on his golf G60 2 weeks ago, only armed with some tools of ours, a couple of specialist bits (for head bolts), a copy of Haynes and a guide that (i think) Henny wrote up on dubforce.net.

 

neither of us had done anything like this before, managed to do a change in 6hours including lunch break, got it checked at our mechanic, and the only things we did wrong were a tooth out on the cam belt and a vaccum pipe put back in the wrong place. which he sorted for minimal price!

 

have a go!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Benji16v, you beat me to it!

 

Just changed the oil cooler, and its fine, have a replacement anyway, so will fit it, but it looks like the garage are right, its the dreaded!! But cant afford another garage bill at the moment, so its all andy's ands on the deck, and gunna do it myself, i had the proper hump earlier, but now have thought about it a bit, and its the one thing i have always wanted to do on a car, just been bit scared, but no choice now eh!!

 

So now id be greatfull for any advice, hints ect on how to do it, have my trusty haynes manual at hand, and will be revising it till D day (sat) every night for a hour or two!!

 

The tools and equipment i think im going to need are as follows, add more if i will need it!!

 

Torque wrench (need to buy)

Head gasket set (theres 2 in GSF ful set and single i think what one)?

New head bolts?!?

New socket set cos half mine seems to be missing!

 

Think its been on way for a long time, when i used to floor it, at about 5000 revs upward, used to et a wiff of burnt oil, now think its where it might of been spraying or dripping on to the manifold!

 

Cheers lads!! :)

 

Wahoo just seen i have 2 stars now as well :) :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I need the gasket this sat, as

A, i cant afford to do with out my car anymore,

B, i cant handle driving around in a nissan micra anymore!!

 

Is there a need for uprated gasket on a 1.8 16v?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i think the 2.0 L 16v has a metal gasket whereas the 1.8 has a cork gasket, dunno if you need it tho!..........

 

again i will be corrected WHEN/IF i`m wrong

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had a paper type headgasket previous to the copper one I have now, there are metal rings that surround the cylinders though so as long as its tight on there it should be fine, the only reason I went with copper is because its a solid head transfer across the whole block. When you are taking your head off you should have it milled at least to rid it of any low points. it will take some time to get it milled as the cam and items have to come off. any local mill shop should be able to to it. mine took me a week, I fixed the guys computer as payment, cant beat that!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've had 3 or 4 16V KR engines now, and the standard head gasket is fine as long as you buy a good quality make... Unless you plan on making some serious modifications in the future, stick with a standard VAG one... 8)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Any one confirm 2,0 one will fit?

 

Yes the 2.0 16V Metal gasket fits the 1800 KR with a small modification.

 

There are 2 locating dowels in the block to aid head alignment. The holes in the 2.0 gasket for the dowels are spaced apart slightly differently to the 1800, so you just need to elongate the holes in the 2.0 gasket by a few mm with a round file.

 

This is what I did on my 1800 16V Turbo and got years of trouble free service.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice cheers lads,

Have all the parts now, bloke in local GSF is proper helpfull, and also C 1.8 16v owner!!

 

Not worried about doing it at all now, thinks its gunna be a breeze for man of my caliber!! COUGH COUGH

Thing that worries me more is replacing the pipe thats split, it took me 45 mins getting another one off passat at the scrappies today, that was without being carefullnot to damage anything like i will have to on mine!!

Whoever designed the metal clips to hold on the water pipes needs shooting. thats all i will say on that!

 

Few questions tho:-

where do i get a cheapish torque wrench from, halfords want £50 quid :shock:

 

And how the hell do you get out that metal water pipe, i also need to change that! (runs down side of the engine round the oil cooler)

 

Cheers!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good T wrenches are expensive I'm afraid :( You might also need a dial guage as I'm pretty sure you torque the bolts up and then you add another 90 degree turn, but if the ratched on the TW is tight enough, you can guesstimate the 90 degree turn.

 

The metal coolant pipe just bolts to the engine in a couple of places and is easy to remove.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sure i have seen them for about 20 quid, i dont really warrent a top notch one, cos i will HOPEFULLY only use it once!!!!

you do need to tighten another 90* but cant u just judge that?!? surely 1-2 degrees wont matter that much? no?

 

And as for the coolant pipe, think i will do that another weekend, its 2 much of a mission!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah you can guess the 90 degree turn no probs, just depends how fussy you are! You're supposed to use a dial guage (I meant protractor guage thingy for the torque wrench) to tension the 16V cambelt but no one ever does!

 

You prob can get a twenty quid TW but I wouldn't trust it! You can rent a TW from a tool hire shop for a fiver a day though mate.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice, now ya talking andys language!!

 

BARGIN :)

 

On the cam belt now you mention it, how do i tension it? another thing im worried about, the timing and how it all works, kinda hoping it will all fall in to place when i have it in bits!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Providing you don't disturb the cams when you take the head off, you can just pop the belt back on again afterwards. Well, that's what I always used to do but someone will correct me if I'm wrong. If you wanna be safe, mark up the TDC marks with tippex and set it all up again from scratch.

 

To tension the belt, turn the tensioner bolt to the point where you can only just physically twist the belt 90 degrees on it's longest span between pulleys. Unless you are He Man, you should be able to twist it the same amount as Joe average.

 

Hope that makes sense!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Right, got it all to bits, and it doesnt look blown?!?!? should it!!!!??!!!

a coulpe of the head bolts seemed lot easyer than the others to loosen?

 

Oh and i moved the top cam pully, so need to reset the timing so any help on that would be helpfull!

 

Cheers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...