Help!! How to change ARB bushes

[purpleVR6 0]

I'm planning to sort the front suspension bushes on my VR6 over next couple of weekends and would like some advice.

I've sourced poweflex bushes and new (VW) balljoints - new bare wishbones as well to make the swop out smoother, even checked all the bolts would loosen - I've heard the horror stories!

 

Should I tackle changing the anti roll bar bushes at the same time? What' s the procedure please? How far do you need to drop the rear of the subframe? What's the risk of not getting the mounting bolts to line up again?

Sorry for the r r repeat of this question, but I'm new to this game and I don't think I put the subject in right before!!

 

Cheers

[Jimjam 0]

Apologies for hijacking the thread, but how much are a pair of ARB bushes?

[Guest]

What you will want to do for the sway bar is to remove the two rear most bolts behind the sway bar and the two with the 13 mm heads that hold the sway bar in place. I would then put a jack under the rear of the sub-frame and then remove the two bolts that go through the rear of the subframe. Now take the two front sbframe bolts and back them off 2 turns at most and then lower the rear of the subframe to get the swaybar out. Now you can replace the bushings and slide the sway bar back in place with the bushings on it and having them correctly orientated. It is hard to get the bushings back in correctly with the clamps on but it can be done with lots of swearing and patience.

 

The Autotech hollow sway bar in car came with instructions which made no mention of the jack but for safety sake I would use one. When you have the sway bar back in place use the jack to push the subframe back in place and then go for the control arms. For the lower ball joints on the VR6 you will need a ball joint splitter to get them to release from the knuckles. I would do this step first with the subframe bolted tightly in place so you can really hammer on the splitter as the ball joints don't always want to release. Once you break them it is a matter of removing the control arms which isn't as straight forward as it would seem on a VR6. At some point you will notice that the right front lower control arm bolt is blocked by the oil pan which will either have to be removed or you will have to take the subframe right out of the car. I have always dropped the subframe myself which makes for replacing the sway bar bushings very easy.

 

Once you have everything replaced it should be easy to line the bolts up, I have done this many times and have never had a problem. Just make sure the bolts don't cross thread and you should be on easy street.

 

Question, what are ARB bushes?

 

Cheers, Dennis

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Spot on Insane_VR6 and welcome aboard by the way.

 

It's quite un-nerving having the entire engine swinging above your chest by a few threads, but it's perfectly safe.

 

As mentioned, make a note of bush orientation as it's easy to put them back on wrong and the ARB won't sit properly afterwards. Basically, the thick end of the bush needs to point to the rear of the car with the split facing toward the front bumper, if that makes sense. It will you have the part in your hand. I would use some grips to clamp the bush and clamp up whilst you feed the 13mm bolt in.

 

Be very very careful with the rear subframe bolts...they are very easy to cross thread. If they don't feel like they're going in straight, take them out and do it again, don't force them. If you do accidentally cross them, remove and grind two slashes into the end of the bolt across the threads. This will then allow the bolts to 'cut' the threads as you wind them in.

 

I've seen these bolts cross all too often and the fix is to pull the carpet out and weld some new captive nuts into the floor pan. Not nice or cheap.

 

Dennis, ARB bushes are the sway bar bushes. SBs are called Anti-roll bars over here.

[davidwort 0]

I found it helpful to put some silicone grease on the ARB bush as I slid it and jiggled it into place along the ARB and under the bracket that clamps it down, that was on my 16v, but I think the parts are pretty much identical.

 

David.

 

 

Spot on Insane_VR6 and welcome aboard by the way.

 

It's quite un-nerving having the entire engine swinging above your chest by a few threads, but it's perfectly safe.

 

As mentioned, make a note of bush orientation as it's easy to put them back on wrong and the ARB won't sit properly afterwards. Basically, the thick end of the bush needs to point to the rear of the car with the split facing toward the front bumper, if that makes sense. It will you have the part in your hand. I would use some grips to clamp the bush and clamp up whilst you feed the 13mm bolt in.

 

Be very very careful with the rear subframe bolts...they are very easy to cross thread. If they don't feel like they're going in straight, take them out and do it again, don't force them. If you do accidentally cross them, remove and grind two slashes into the end of the bolt across the threads. This will then allow the bolts to 'cut' the threads as you wind them in.

 

I've seen these bolts cross all too often and the fix is to pull the carpet out and weld some new captive nuts into the floor pan. Not nice or cheap.

 

Dennis, ARB bushes are the sway bar bushes. SBs are called Anti-roll bars over here.

[purpleVR6 0]

Cheers for all the advice. Just what I needed to give me the confidence to go ahead. I'll give feedback once the jobs a good un!!!