Heater/Blower not working...

[Linus Van Pelt 0]

About a year ago, my heater/blower would make strange noises (sort of groaning and/or grinding noises), especially noticeable when first starting the car or when going round tight corners :shock: . Almost always, simply turning the speed dial up to 4 and back down again would cure it.

 

Now my blower/heater doesn't work at all... :(

 

I'm guessing it's probably just the motor and if it is, can this be a DIY job for someone without a lot of experience? (I've managed to change my ISV before now, but that's about it!) I have a very good friendly garage who'll do it for me, just wondering if this is a job where I can save some pennies.

 

Answers on a postage stamp to the usual address please...

 

Thanks in advance,

 

DtM

'95 2.0 16V

[markTTC 0]

Sounds like the bearings have given up on the motor, and possibly burnt out a winding or two in the process.

 

The motor is very easy to replace. Remove the passenger side shelf below the glovebox (i think there is about half a dozen screws). You will then see the motor towards the corner of the footwell. To remove it you have to CAREFULLY bend a tab up (it's made of plastic) so that you can twist the whole motor assembly off (turn anti-clockwise looking from above).

 

I think they are about £40 new from GSF - Mk2 Golf ones fit BTW.

 

HTH

 

Cheers

 

Mark

[Linus Van Pelt 0]

Mark,

 

You're a star, thanks for posting!

 

I shall have a look at the w/e, and if it's as easy as it sounds, I'll owe you a beer (or whatever you're tipple is) :drinking:

 

Thanks again,

 

Best Regards,

 

DtM.

[Fine wine, Belgian chocs. 1]

If you're going to fit a 2nd hand Mk2 Golf blower make sure you swap over the electrical wiring rheostat type thingy cos they're different as the Golf has 3 speeds and the Corrado has 4.

I've done this and it's a piece of cake. 20 minute job. 8)

[Linus Van Pelt 0]

make sure you swap over the electrical wiring rheostat type thingy

 

...not sure I'm quite with you there... :scratch:

 

...will it be obvious to me when I look at the old motor alongside the new one?

 

DtM.

[markTTC 0]

If I remember rightly there is a module where the connector plugs into on the motor that controls the speeds - this won't be on the brand new unit unless you specify it needing one.

 

IMO you shouldn't buy a second hand one - treat the C to a new one and it's job done for another 100K miles :wink:

 

HTH

 

Cheers

 

Mark

[Linus Van Pelt 0]

IMO you shouldn't buy a second hand one - treat the C to a new one and it's job done for another 100K miles :wink:

 

...the operative word there being "2nd hand"... I suppose I really should have read your original post more closely! :shock:

 

I've already ordered a new one anyway (just the motor), getting a second hand one hadn't actually crossed my mind...

 

Thanks again for posting though!

 

Best Regards,

 

DtM.

[Rory 0]

This is all good stuff mine broke recently as well.

 

Any more advice on possible heater probs/fixes would be apprecitaed by me as well :D :D

 

Cheers guys

[sc16v 0]

Rory- if the fan works only on 4 speed setting then its the resistor pack, (small matchbox shaped object on the fan casing. If no output check your fuse then, then check if you have power and earth to resistor pack outoput if you have both then its the motor, if you have live and earth in to the pack and nothing out then its the res pack. if no earth and or live check switch and wiring etc. a good place to test/or start your electrical diagnositc skills :D

[Rory 0]

The fooker doesnt work at all sc16v my girlfriend turned it on on a lovely summers day (the other day to be precise) and it worked. I had music on at the time so couldnt hear it running. Turned the music off, went to switch my fan on (forgot she had turned it on) and low and behlod the little fella pulled a swift one and stopped workin on me :( :( .

 

Ive checked all the fuses and no joy.

 

Didnt realise it was so easy to get at or i'd have done it at the wend.

 

So from what you said i have to:

 

check if you have power and earth to resistor pack outoput if you have both then its the motor, if you have live and earth in to the pack and nothing out then its the res pack. if no earth and or live check switch and wiring etc.:D

 

I'll nick my old mans multitester while hes out of the country.

 

So sc16v imagine im a monkey and know nothing what do i do with my tester? Set it to 12v DC then what? Will i knacker pa's tester if i just start touching wires with it? Which ones do i touch? Do i just look for a live wire going to the motor if not the motor is sh**ged?

[sc16v 0]

rory im sure your not a monkey :lol: this is a corrado you will be working on :lol:

 

Here's the first test for you(bit late to go through whole procedure know)

1)Get access to the heater Res pack (attached to the motor casing) Disconnect the multi plug,

2)Switch your tester to 12vdc. Place your black on your tester to the black or brown(earth cant remember which wire is down there) wire on the multiplug terminal and the turn the switch to on, know probe each terminal in the plug with the red tester wire until you get a 12v on your tester(ie live wire)

 

you will either have no earth, no live =wiring /switch problem, or earth and live= Res pack or motor probs.

Dont worry about damaging anything its pretty hard to break anything while testing.

I'll complete this tomorrow with speific wire colours and next step :D

[Rory 0]

Your a diamond geezer mate, diamond :lol: (in my best southern accent)!!!

[sc16v 0]

Rory- here you go mate i think vr uses the same wiring as 16v

1)remove Pass lower dash cover.

2)pull multiplug off heater casing/ res pack.

3)connect your tester to an earthing point(or brown wire on multiplug)

4)turn fan onto pos 1 then check each wire on the plug until you find a 12v circuit,(if you dont then you have a wiring or switch fault)

5) Just check the rest of the wires and turning the fan onto each pos.

6)if you have circuits on each pos then remove the res pack (can be brittle)

7) reconnect the plug, turn the fan on and test to see if you have a 12v circuit out of the res to the motor(two big wires that go onto motor)

8) if you have then it needs a motor, if you dont then it needs a res pack :D

simple as that

[Rory 0]

Thanks for the time you spent on all that sc16v you deserve some stars for your advice!

 

Pa took his mutimeter with him :mad: so i bought i cheapie draper one for £15 from Motor World.

 

Right:

1) Removed the shelf/cover.

2) Got a multiplug with 5 male bullet connections from the motor.

3) Got one earth (brown) and each time i select a speed on the dash switch one of the other 4 bullet connectors becomes live with 12.5V approx.

4) Have removed the metal plate/res pack from the side of the motor with the 5 female connectors.

5) On the other side there were 2 wires (one red one black) with spade connectors holding them onto the res pack.

6) Got 12.5V approx from those 2 spades as well!!!!

 

So my motor is broken ok?

 

Can i fix it?

 

The fan piece looks well held on with a washer that crimps onto the armature. On the other side there is a plug and now a hole where the res pack was, other than that it is completley sealed.

 

The part no is 536 819 021. Is this the same as the G60 anyone? More importantly is it the same as the MK3 golf? Will i be able to put my 4 speed res pack on the Mk3 item?

 

Thanks again Rory

[sc16v 0]

Rory, no probs but on the subject of stars i did donate the other day and not recieved my 5 yet :( :? (andi)

Glad the tests went ok and yes it sounds like your motor has shot it. I dont have access to ETKA parts cd so not to sure about the crossover of parts, but sure someone on here should be able to tell the score with that one. You should be able to put your res pack on though. :D

[Henny 0]

Hi!

 

The motor is the same as MKII golf/jetta... I think also passat as well, but I could be wrong on that... Get one from somewhere like Euro Car Parts for a MKII golf and swap your resistor pack over.... If the pack had blown you wouldn't be getting the 12V on the terminals that go into the motor... :D

 

I've replaced mine with a MKII golf one and it works beautifully now, I had to mend the resistor pack on mine though 'cos one of the components had blown and I was damned if I was gonna spend £70 for the resistor pack alone! :shock:

 

It's an easy job to do, just make sure you are careful to put all the screws back in the dash tight else you'll have more rattles than mothercare! :lol:

[Linus Van Pelt 0]

Quick Update for you...

 

 

I've managed to change the motor! I'm really chuffed too! :lol: The old motor had black residue on the white fan blades and lots of crud came out the bottom of the motor when I took that little black cap off... If I'd known how powerful the blower was supposed to be on setting 4, I may have realised it was in trouble much sooner, almost took my hair off!

 

Seriously though, thanks again to everyone for their assistance (especially Mark)!

 

Better watch out, I'll be doing engine swaps next! :mrgreen:

 

DtM

[G60Jet 1]

Glado you got it fixed without the Dealers help, thats the forums main reason for being. Saving money, keeping the corrado alive etc

[Supercharged 2]

Hmmm... I changed my Rheostat when i got the car as it was only working on pos 4 but latley it has started making noises at lower speed, i take it this is due to the motor being on its way out, I had noticed it does not blow as much air as my Mk2 (unresisted)

 

The whole resistor had blown on my Rheostat (not just the thermal fuse) so I got another 4spd Corrado one from a breakers... I take it these actually go as the motor begins to struggle with the load???

 

Anyway, what i want to know is are we saying the MK2 motors are exactly the same and i could swap mine for a new one and fit my 4 spd Rheostat and it would work fine along with my 4pos switch (IE the Corrado blower power is not rated any higher, just the resistor adds an extra speed)???

[Rory 0]

 

 

DtM

 

Mine is fixed as well!!!! :D :D

 

Took the carbon brushes off fiddled with the motor for a bit and put it back in and it WORKED! Think the springs holding the brushes on the motor weren't transmitting enough force to push the brushes onto the armature.

 

Sorry for taking over your forum a bit Duncan but i thought the advice could be for you as well

[Rory 0]

Oh yeah thanks everyone 8)

[markTTC 0]

Seriously though, thanks again to everyone for their assistance (especially Mark)!

 

You're welcome - all part of the service matey :wink:

 

Don't ask me for any advice on the engine mods though :lol:

 

Cheers

 

Mark