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mrbeige

Borbet A's and arches

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Right, getting some 9"x16" Borbet A's 8) next week and need to know if I need to roll my arches? I've got Koni/H&R (and spring caps) setup on my Corrado. What do you guys reckon? Is it the sort of job that I could do myself, if it needs to be done?

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Right i never seemed to get a straight answer on this post so heres the solution.

1. The tyres have to be 205 no greater.

2. DO NOT ROLL THE ARCHES, reason is i had mine done by extreme and it didnt eliminate the problem, if they catch anywhere its at the front of the arch more than at the top.

Get them flared by using a wheelarch flaring tool and then if need be trim part of the lip, if the arch has been rolled previously then it is more difficult to flare in the future as i have experienced!

3. Not that important but helps to fit extended bump stops some of the suspension travel is lost , but on coilovers there isnt that much travel for the difference to be felt.

Hope to help and good luck!

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sorry majik i dont agree with you there... i had the arch's rolled on the corrado (rears only) and had no rubbing problems even with somone in the back ... just my experiance but didn't need to touch the fronts at all

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what abt cutting out the back ones,,,does this achieve results???

 

me not too sure my arches std

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Guys, don't forget that the Corrado came with 2 completely different setups for the width of the wheel arches! :roll:

 

The earlier cars are between 6 and 10mm narrower on EACH wheel arch than the later bodied cars, and the line that the arches take is slightly different as they head down towards the ground. This is true on BOTH front AND rear arches... What fitted on one car may not fit on another for this reason, especially as no-one in this thread has yet mentioned what year their car is... :roll: ;) (Furki almost excluded from that last comment, although it could still be an early or a late '92... ;) )

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Mine is a 1991 H reg, and im sure Darrens was an ealry too.

As i mention before i wouldn't recommend rolling the arch because mine were rolled and the rubbing still occured. The arch couldnt be pulled out further becuase of this, i was told that the panel has too much strength in it and will become out of shape if it is pulled out.

Just to clarify what i understand by rolling the arch is fold back the metal flap so it gives a few mm of clearance.

I did see Darrens car and its true that his didnt seemed like it was rubbing at all, but that method never worked for me.

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Right, well mine is 93 K-reg, so does mine have the early or late body shape? I have late style bonnet and grill, and early style interior??? I'm a little confused now.

 

I guess I'll wait until I try and fit the wheels on wednesday, after I pick them up from the g-man on tuesday!

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no idea mate, all I'm pointing out is that it's not fair that people just say "YES, these'll fit with no mods", "you'll need the arches rolled" or "you'll need the arches pulled" without stating what wheels they had fitted to what car with what suspension. It's misleading and could end up costing you money, time and effort...

 

Your first post was spot on (except for mentioning body age) with the details, but NONE of the replies have had any of the important details needed to actually be any help... :roll:

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Henny, o i c, in which case.....

 

What suspension and wheels have you got fitted to your car Majik and FurkiG60 :?:

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maj is running Borbets A's like yrs on Koni coilovers from what I remeber.. :roll:

 

furki dont tell anyone what he has on his car.!! propbably BMX mag wheels with 4x4 springs LOL :p

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Cheers Majik

 

Does that mean I'll have issues on the front, as I'm getting 9x16" front and rear? :?

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From what i've been told no.....which suprised me a little as i thought the fronts would give the most problems.

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Majik, can you explain a little more about the difference between arch rolling and arch flaring?, is there a different tool used for each job?, surely if you wanted to flare the arch, the tool would fold the lip up first before it flares the arch?, or do you have to cut the whole lip out first, then just slightely flare the whole arch out with a an arch rolling tool?

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Bally, the time has come only a few more days haha (btw im after some mag wheels for my pimp bmx, must be white though)

 

 

im runing fk coilovers at the mo with 17" wheels 205/40/17 which bang and knock on potholes also running spacers i think 6mm not to sure has its only a temporary setup :lol:

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Majik, can you explain a little more about the difference between arch rolling and arch flaring?, is there a different tool used for each job?, surely if you wanted to flare the arch, the tool would fold the lip up first before it flares the arch?, or do you have to cut the whole lip out first, then just slightely flare the whole arch out with a an arch rolling tool?

AFAIK, please correct me if i am wrong

Arch Rolling, is folding the lip/flap of the furthest part of the wheelarch back on the panel, this is done by using a hammer and dolly.

It also maintains the strength in the panel.

Imagine a cereal box if the top flap is cut off, the side panel would have less strength than if the flap was pushed back inside.

Arch Flaring is quite a generic term, the proper way to do it is how PhatVr6 has done welding another arch to extend to completely.

The cheaper option is to use a tool which puts tension on the arch and push it out whilst its being moved from one side to another.

Now imagine the cereal box with the flap pushed in because of the greater strength of the panel it may distort if its shape is being changed.

I've never seen the flaring tool in action, but from what i understand the tensioner bit rest on the lip of the arch.

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all of a sudden 8" wide wheels seems so sensible....

 

so why haven't you gone for then then... :wink:

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