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Yandards' 16VG60 - Running Report 23 Jul 15

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Excellent! Started to wonder how bad it was going to be when I read the first of your updated posts on the rebuild, but was quite relieved when I got to the last!

I hate those marks on the 16v, it's just a stupid design, looks like they should point directly at each other at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock but they shouldn't :?

I know the cam pulley has a mark on the inside that should be level with the head but those daft O's on the cam chain pulleys just don't seem logical.

To top it all (IIRC) when you tighten down the cam caps everything moves round a bit anyway as the lobes press on the lifters :mad2:

Glad you're getting there now anyway :D

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My hat comes off to you Sir! Top notch compression! I can vouch for how rapid it was last summer with 8b, one can only imagine what she will be like when you get her run in! :notworthy:

 

(bought a zinc plating kit for that job)

 

have some fuel tank straps in the galvaniser as I type this.

 

I would LOVE your workshop :luvlove:

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I hate those marks on the 16v, it's just a stupid design, looks like they should point directly at each other at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock but they shouldn't :?

I know the cam pulley has a mark on the inside that should be level with the head but those daft O's on the cam chain pulleys just don't seem logical.

 

Really? I thought that's exactly how they had to be. Lining up two dots opposite each other seems pretty logical to me.

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I hate those marks on the 16v, it's just a stupid design, looks like they should point directly at each other at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock but they shouldn't :?

I know the cam pulley has a mark on the inside that should be level with the head but those daft O's on the cam chain pulleys just don't seem logical.

 

Really? I thought that's exactly how they had to be. Lining up two dots opposite each other seems pretty logical to me.

 

Yeah I must admit I thought so too...

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I'm glad I haven't rebuilt my head yet then :s

when you look at timing diagrams it all looks fine and clear, but for some reason on the engine it just doesn't look right, like the dots are too high, it doesn't help that you can't actually view them on the level as you can't get your head in the right position :)

it's also hard to get the cams to face each other as the valve springs push the cams round slightly, perhaps it's just me though :lol:

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It is a bit of a pain in the bum frankly.

 

The 2 x 'O' dots need to be cut in half by the top of the cylinder head and facing each other but as DW said, the big problem with that is the hyd followers shoving the cam all over the place.

 

On top of the that you need to ensure the exhaust cam is at no 1 TDC to get it all to work properly (which is probably where mine went wrong all those years ago). A simple task that is not so simple at all.

 

Alex, I don't have a hot dip galvaniser in my garage mate, there are at the dip galv place in Elgin.

 

Thinking I will pull the engine back out to do the box and crank, bit easier and it means I can replace the brake lines in the engine bay that are looking manky and rusty with ease, I don't need to disconnect that much more to do it and trying to fit the new tensioner system in situ would be a pain. It also means I can paint some more ally bits that I left bare blasted as they are not lasting very well and attend to couple of other odds and ends that just need a tidy up.

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Fair play for getting this sorted, i also hate little crappy things like those 'O's which im bound to have to meet some time soon as i want to take my head appart to look to see if there is a crack in it, pretty much am replacing the head.

 

What do i need to know about these two little dots, if you lot are having troubles then, well, ill be stumped.

 

I have little mechanical know how, you lot should know, you generally are my know how...

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Fair play for getting this sorted, i also hate little crappy things like those 'O's which im bound to have to meet some time soon as i want to take my head appart to look to see if there is a crack in it, pretty much am replacing the head.

 

What do i need to know about these two little dots, if you lot are having troubles then, well, ill be stumped.

 

I have little mechanical know how, you lot should know, you generally are my know how...

 

Its one of those easy to draw but hard to do jobs.

 

Basically there are a pair of circles on the camshaft gear cogs (the exhaust cam is driven by the cambelt which in turn drives the inlet cam via a chain.) Those circles need to be closest to each other with the middle of the circle in line with the top the cylinder head. The exhaust camshaft needs to be at TDC whilst this is carried out.

 

The problem comes with doing that, you can't check the exhaust cam at TDC without the rocker cover on and the hydraulic cam followers tend to throw where the cams want to rest out. The only way to do is to best guess, fit the camshaft bearing caps, put the rocker cover on and tweak the cambelt pulley to reset the head to TDC - then its rocker cover back off and see what the cams look like.

 

Had it running on idle last night, its not happy yet and needs about 10 deg of advance coupled with a lot of the idle screw wound out to get it to run right now, just tight I guess. Need to get it to a stable running point before the strip down so I think I need to tweak the CO etc and monitor the lambda on the wideband as a start.

 

Job for tomorrow though...

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Glad you've found some compression! When might you get it back on the road?

 

Thanks honey :)

 

Got a long list of mostly "want to do's" as opposed to "need to do's" which is nice for a change.

 

In no particular order a wishlist by BVF this year (1st weekend in July):

 

Overhaul front brakes - clean up calipers, carriers and disc shields, paint and fit new seal kits.

Replace crankshaft and conrod bearings

Swap gearbox (AGC code one fitted) for a diesel ASD box with G60 3rd and 4th ratios.

Fit new RPM Tuning ribbed belt tensioner setup.

Remove rear engine bracket, block breather and oil filter housing and paint external surfaces in Alumablast.

Remove charger and paint casing in Alumablast.

Engine back out of the bay for the above 5 items.

Replace brake lines in engine bay.

Clean up engine bay.

Flush radiator and coolant system through.

Get bumper inner metal dip galvanised and powdercoated.

Paint new gearbox in Alumablast.

Tweak Mk 2 Golf scuttle cover and fit.

Work through fasteners in engine bay and re-zinc with a bright yellow phosphate finish.

Fit replacment fuel tank straps with dip galvanised and powder coated items.

Replace water reservoir.

Make bracket to accomodate radiator cover plastic.

Replace fuel injectors with reconditioned items.

Custom mapping session at DG (around BVF time).

Get it run in.

Wire in oil pressure and plumb in boost ancilary gauges.

Start removing the interior trim and replacing the sticky felt.

Replace sump for one without tappings for oil returns (they get in the way of the metal coolant pipe).

A few coats of wax....

 

Realistically that is all achievable by BVF and is mostly labour. The easiest option is to just remove the engine and do the box swap etc with it out of the car, it makes the engine bay work a lot easier. I have solved all of the current 16VG60 issues that caused the many headaches over the build period and am already into the first set of tweaks to sort reliabilty/running issues as it covered over 1000 miles last year all be it in nerfed mode. Ultimately I am aiming for a factory fresh look for the engine bay, the subframe does need attention but thats a job for next year.

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Long time no update.

 

Mr Supercharged was up for the long weekend and the engine is currently back out and hanging on the crane, crankshaft bearings have been replaced, new galvansied and powder coated front console has been fitted and the new ASD(mk 3 diesel box) wit G60 3rd and 4th gears is now hanging from the side of the engine after a coat of paint.

 

The engine bay has been cleaning up nicely and I need to replace a few brake lines whilst the engine is still out, although I also need to order some from VW! The tensioner setup I ordered from RPM is now finally on its way to me and I will mock that up whilst the engine is on the crane as it is a lot easier out of the car. Then its engine back in, head off(again) so I can change the stretch bolts on the conrods and replace the conrod big and small end bearings and then er, that's it engine wise aside from a spot of mapping.

 

The electroplating kit in the roof is currently working overtime on the various gearbox brackets etc to get them cleaned up ok and replated and the aim is to take a week off work to finish it all off next week.

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Cool - so we should see some big updates coming soon then. Fingers crossed it all works this time mate! I can't wait to see it and passenger in it when it's all working :)

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Indeed, really hope it goes well mate. Be great to see it at BVF but no pressure lol!

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Indeed, really hope it goes well mate. Be great to see it at BVF but no pressure lol!

 

That is the aim right now, all achievable I just need to get my finger out!

 

Should really take some pictures in its current state too :)

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fingers crossed Yan, would like to see the results of the plating too! I know Bruny bought a kit recently also so must have a look at some of the bits he's done. :)

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Indeed, really hope it goes well mate. Be great to see it at BVF but no pressure lol!

 

No compression don't you mean? :lol:

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No compression don't you mean? :lol:

 

Heh Yeah something like that :)

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Lunchtime drinking in Essex Braintree?

 

Looks likely, not even sure what the point being made is TBH.

 

A certain Germany tuning companies belt tensioning kit finally arrived today, it is very well made but it would have been nice if it was here sooner.

 

Few odds and ends on order from VW for the engine bay prior to engine refit and I have worked out how the new 'charger belt tensioning routing is going to work although I have not calculated the belt length yet.

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