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About Yandards

  • Rank
    Legacy Moderator
  • Birthday 06/10/1977


  • Location
    Carterton, United Kingdom


  • Interests
    Xbox, Volkswagen Corrado Working on Cars, Walking Thriller, Anything Science Fiction Horror film


  • Occupation
    I fix planes me


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  1. Yandards

    4 cylinder subframes

    It's not an ABS related change as you could specify ABS as a build option on any of the earlier cars - you also need to consider other markets as ABS was more common on the German market cars. The stub axles are ABS/non-ABS specific as already mentioned due to the mounting holes. As its end suffix letters it'll probably be tied to manufacturing cost reductions instead of any real changes in construction or fitting. Not sure why the last couple of model years of production for the G60 had a different rear beam part number, especially as the KR and PG shared the same rear beam for the first couple of years.
  2. Hi Jan, keep me updated on this please. While I'm sending this can you give me a bit of advice please ? I noticed a clicking noise coming from around my timing belt. I took the cover off to find my belt was rubbing on the back plate 026 109 127 c the top edge is rubbing where it's bent over, it's like it springs forwards towards the belt automatically. Should it do this ? How far should the top part of the inner metal cover be away from the belt ? Regards Chris.

  3. Keep in mind that the H&R springs listed for the G60/16v don't go well with the Koni Sport top adjustable dampers. The H&R 16/G60 springs are a 35mm drop and designed to work with standard rate dampers not the uprated damping on the Konis, this results in a spring/damper mismatch and a terrible ride. You can fit the VR6 H&R springs to the Konis on a G60/16v and they work just fine that way, either that or standard dampers with the G60/16v H&R springs. Always found these folks to be pretty decent for 3rd party spares and they have been trading for a while now: AVS Car Parts They have front and rear dampers for around £50 each for the fronts and £30 for the rears along with all the associated fitting hardware (ie top mounts etc). Its also worth noting you can get away with using the VR6 style front top mount setup as its a bit easier to fit than the slotted nut arrangement you find on the earlier cars. Original shock absorber specification was oil filled but dual piston gas filled will give a better ride given the state of the roads. Lots of threads on here about spring caps differences etc so have a look for them.
  4. Hallo folks, Gruven Parts used to manufacture billet alloy idler pulleys with uprated SKF bearings (double the original bearing speed and load ratings). I have contacted them for a set but they have no more stock and need to do another production run, so will need 10 orders. Don't know what costs will be as yet or if I can get them down for a batch of 10 sold but if you are interested in something that is both shinny and likely to last longer than the 5 minutes the original idler rollers do then can you express some interest below. If I get 10 folks then I will approach Gruven asking about a discount/group buy. Some details can be found here: G60 Idler Pulleys
  5. Yandards

    no insurance

    A requirement as part of taxing the car is that it is insured and you invalidate the tax if you don't insure it.
  6. You could also invest in a Carcoon or similar storage system. Having used one of those for around 4 years now they make a huge difference over the winter period as the light build of rust I used to get on brake discs no longer appears. Framework style one is better for a garage just remember you need to be able to open the garage door!
  7. A lot of this will come down to money, as in how much do you want to spend coupled with what you want out of the car. Use engine oil not WD40 as it will strip the oil in the bores. If you are hand turning then you won't have enough strength to cause any piston damage by turning it over if the valve train is playing up, you should be able to get all the way around on the bottom end twice to check - TDC mark of '0' should be visible on the flywheel. As for the rest of the rebuild stuff - anything with a bit of rubber on it/in it needs replacing, notably rubber fuel lines in the engine bay prior to even considering an engine start, the coolant hoses will be ok but some of the plastic connections may not, ie the radiator neck, cylinder head coolant flange etc. Also worth an injector refurb (plenty of eBay options there), brake caliper overhaul/seal replacement (those rubber things again), new master cylinder (that'll be a mess internally) and all the suspension bushes, top mounts, dampers etc. I'd also swap the oil and filter prior to engine starting and assuming you get it running again drop the coolant the first time you get it warmed up as well. Then onto heater matrix change (it'll probably be a bit of a state again) and oil and coolant swap a couple of times over the first 1000 miles to make sure anything that else kicking around in there doesn't cause an issue.
  8. Centre console is ABS, small drill bits plastic welded in also help strengthen it, it mostly breaks due to the weight of modern head units compared to the old ones. As for the front splitter it's a bit more 'rubbery' but should be ABS plastic as its cheap and easy to mould.
  9. That's down to the suspension companies, hence the reason all the bits above the spring cap are interchangeable.
  10. Aside from the top cap based faff the last year of production saw the 16v cars using the same springs and dampers as the VR6. You should also be able to interchange everything above the spring caps (upper spring seal on that pic) for stock early stuff too. As you have part numbers you can use VW Classic Parts, part number checker Link this is the supplier VW Heritage get their stuff from just enter the part number or a partial part number to stock check.
  11. It will fit with no issues. Late wings are around 10mm wider at the arch flare on all late cares to compensate for wider tyres (205 as standard). Plus suspension on a Corrado is a bodge as it requires the top turret on the inner wing to be wider to accommodate the setup correctly, the inner wing and bulkhead are the same on all cars.
  12. High density foam. A pair live between the rear parcel shelf support panel the rear seat - I think these are to limit movement/vibration of the rear seat, 535867783, the look like the ones detailed below but have a hole through the middle of the large section to aid compression. There are 2 that sit on the tailgate trim panel, 535867815A, are designed to stop the parcel shelf rattling around, the original finish is a smooth foam although as per the images below I made that out of toolkit style foam which is a little rougher. Got an original boot one in my hands now albeit its a bit scruffy. [ATTACH=CONFIG]87293[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]87296[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]87299[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]87302[/ATTACH]
  13. A Corrado rear beam and two passengers. Was swapping the bushes over on a friends car and had to take the beam to a the tool to get it swapped over.
  14. Used the Eastwood stuff for a few years, its pretty durable in terms of engine bits and it looks pretty good too. Not had it flake off or discolour due to temperature either and its on my rocker cover, inlet manifold and charger.
  15. No change to the rear panels throughout production - front and rear bumpers were 'tidied up' only and the main reason for the front end change (bonnet, wings etc) was to accommodate the height of the VR block and its position in the engine bay.
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