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Yandards' 16VG60 - Running Report 23 Jul 15

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yands,german post is slower than british one,believe me!i ordered set of front and rear SKF bearings for my g60 and they took three weeks to turn up.The supplier was in berlin and i live near hannover.only about 280km away

 

Rule of thumb with german post,if it says 3 days delivery,add 7 days to it!

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yands,german post is slower than british one,believe me!i ordered set of front and rear SKF bearings for my g60 and they took three weeks to turn up.The supplier was in berlin and i live near hannover.only about 280km away

 

Rule of thumb with german post,if it says 3 days delivery,add 7 days to it!

 

It had more to do with the supplier to be honest, I ordered in February and it was only dispatched on the 24th of May after a lot of emails, shame as the parts are good and the items I have previously ordered from them arrived quickly.

 

Belt routing was mocked up last night, all looks good and a rough guess at belt length comes back at 1600mm for now. Will check the length properly once its built up using the old string method but a quick flick through the gates catalogue shows a range of VW belts from 1550mm up to 1600mm so it will be easy enough to get one from VAG when a replacment is due.

 

Managed to get the zinc electroplating kit to start behaving again after filtering the plating fluid through some coffee filter paper so cleaning up various bolts and replating them, quite disappointed really all of the bolts were new during the rebuild and the car has only done 1500 miles since then in the dry, aside from the coolant explosion over the engine bay, most of them are not looking good at all.

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Few pics of it in pieces again.

 

Charger is off so I can replace the bracket with the freshly painted one, new top pulley setup is fitted to the new charger bracket, water pump is off for paint and I will give the charger a blow over too whilst I have it in bits.

 

Various bits to progress this week prior to the engine going back in and then head off for conrod work.

 

Anyway, some photos:

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]47336[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]47337[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]47338[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]47339[/ATTACH]

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Nice cab is it a genuine Karmann made in Wolfsburger?, shame about the patch panel...

 

No, its not..

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Nice cab is it a genuine Karmann made in Wolfsburger?, shame about the patch panel...

 

I love the Karmann sticker, rip off the halfords sign and it would look the bee's knees!

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Component painting today, water pump, charger and the timing belt metal panel all needed a blow over.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]47356[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]47357[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]47358[/ATTACH]

 

Charger is pre-paint, water pump is post paint and the panel needs another coat.

 

It should mean that all my aluminium bits in the engine bay now last a lot longer and are all the same colour; the charger was starting to show signs of corrosion (white powder) through the existing layer of paint so it needed a blow over. Product of choice is aluma-blast; I have found it to be very hard wearing and it has a heat rating of 130 degrees C so should more than manage with (non overheating) engine temps.

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Component painting today, water pump, charger and the timing belt metal panel all needed a blow over.

 

 

Charger is pre-paint, water pump is post paint and the panel needs another coat.

 

It should mean that all my aluminium bits in the engine bay now last a lot longer and are all the same colour; the charger was starting to show signs of corrosion (white powder) through the existing layer of paint so it needed a blow over. Product of choice is aluma-blast; I have found it to be very hard wearing and it has a heat rating of 130 degrees C so should more than manage with (non overheating) engine temps.

 

Looks good yan, I'm waiting for my charger to get serviced by G-werks before i get the paint out but ill be keeping "Aluma-blast" in mind from now on :)

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I am begining to suspect this engine does not want to be used...

 

Cracked on yesterday with the head removal so I could replace the conrod stretch bolts and bearings, spent ages trying to get the head off and ended up bending one of the ARP rods (luckily at the No. 10 position). Then the pistons were being annoying when I was refitting them and I ended up cracking the oil scrapper (3rd ring) on no.4 - luckily I had a spare to fit. I also managed to break the oil squirter in no.1 whilst trying to refit that piston, finally the bloody head would not go back down the ARP rods so I swore a bit and called it a night.

 

Today started off much better, a spot of scissor jack action soon saw the head back on and I had everything back on bar the downpipe and a few odds and ends by the end of the day so I could get a belt length for the new tensioner setup. I soon discovered that the metal lug on the charger bracket (replacement item that I had painted) was bent as the swing arm was miles out of alignment with the charger tensioner and the pulley was catching on the cam cover! Cue some more swearing and a spot of irritation.

 

Various other niggles sorted today, timing belt upper and lower covers modified to clear the various bits that get in the way so they sit properly, tapped a few holes to clean up the threads, new gearbox cable support bracket has been fitted, replaced the injectors with overhauled items and torque checked a load of items on the engine.

 

So the plan tomorrow is paint up the old charger bracket, get the charger back off and then remove the busted bracket, aside from the painting hassle it's not a major pain in the bum and I have managed to get a belt length - 1520mm, or one from a 1.0l Lupo with PAS and aircon. Should have the engine complete bar the oil squirter and head bolt, easy enough to do with it back in the bay - in fact torqueing the head will be a lot easier as it is currently on the crane! Then onto bulkhead tidy up, couple of new brake lines and that should be it with a spot of luck - which I am more than due after the last couple of days.

 

On a different note I went out a bought another torque wrench as Supercharged was complaining nothing was done up properly - I keep telling him that when stuff is new you don't need to lean on it as hard to get it undone!

 

No photos as I have been crafting away from around 10 until 10 and no time to take pics as BVF is just over a week away and I need to get it through an MOT yet..

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On a different note I went out a bought another torque wrench as Supercharged was complaining nothing was done up properly - I keep telling him that when stuff is new you don't need to lean on it as hard to get it undone!

 

 

Does the new one go up to more than 10Nm?? I can't speak for everyone but I prefer the bolts holding my engine in the car to be more than finger tight :lol:

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Does the new one go up to more than 10Nm?? I can't speak for everyone but I prefer the bolts holding my engine in the car to be more than finger tight :lol:

 

front engine mount needed 30Nm IIRC, and my torque wrench only goes down to 40... so i just give it a good twist :p

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Does the new one go up to more than 10Nm?? I can't speak for everyone but I prefer the bolts holding my engine in the car to be more than finger tight :lol:

 

Thats not the only nuts he has got loose :lol:

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Does the new one go up to more than 10Nm?? I can't speak for everyone but I prefer the bolts holding my engine in the car to be more than finger tight :lol:

 

When was the last time you had your right arm calibrated to read 10Nm? :p None of it was torqued up properly after the last head removal as I only needed to check for compression as it all had to come off again! I even bought a set of crows feet spanners to torque up those bits you can't normally do with a regular socket; oh and stainless stuff torques up completely differently as well..

 

Well in a week I need to be about 2 hours into my journey south for BVF, car currently looks like this:

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]47594[/ATTACH]

 

 

Got to make up new front to back brake lines (old ones are off), topcoat then lacquer the treated rusty areas, swap the charger bracket on the engine over for one that is not bent, fit the charger belt, refit the bottom metal coolant pipe, refit the PAS brackets, tidy the wiring loom up a little more, refit the washer bottle, header tank, brake and PAS reservoirs, rebuild the brakes, paint the brake servo, refit the shifter tower, fit the clutch slave cylinder, refit the oil pump, windage tray and sump, put the engine back in and connect it all up, bleed the brakes and refit the rad support panel, x member, slam panel and front bumper. Then re-calibrate the wideband controller, get it running and dial in the timing, idle speed and CO2 setting.

 

Should be ok.

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Well its back in one piece and just needs the timing, CO2 and idle setting to get it ready for the MOT (and a wash).

 

Been a marathon 9 days, luckily I was on holiday last week as my shortest day has been around 10 hours with the longest yesterday at 16!

 

Much happier with the 'Version 2' edition, it looks the same but all the looming is much tidier and I have taken the time to work out the best routing for PAS, oil cooler and coolant lines at the front of the engine so I now have enough space to get at the oil filter without having to remove most of the boost pipework.

 

Got some photos but not many as it was all work work work you know but hopefully it will pass the MOT tomorrow at 14:30.

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It went in for the MOT yesterday, as soon as I pressed the brake pedal I thought bugger, very spongy and the car doesn't stop too well.

 

Next problem was the gear selection, I couldn't select reverse in the morning so had adjusted the cables at the gearbox, this resulted in reverse being where 1st normally is, 1st and 2nd where 3rd and 4th are, 3rd where 5th is, 4th in the empty hole behind 5th and no 5th gear at all :(.

 

Still an MOT was booked and I didn't have time to fix any of this now so I duly took it down and told them about the dodgy brakes and wierd gear selection, I then walked over to VW (just round the corner) to pick up some clips complete with the car key - duh!

 

Despite all of that I still have a green MOT pass certificate in my hand although the brakes where just on the limit so a re-bleed is required, well chuffed after all the work.

 

Aside from that the ECU map is that far off it doesn't like to start and idles badly, I have the idle screw all the way out and it still won't get high enough to rev at the correct speed during idle when cold and on the set-up procedure. Driving is a different experience though, a few more enthusiastic pokes of the throttle yesterday (no where near full throttle but just getting the bigger throttle butterfly open) resulted in a nice big wedge of torque and I had it up to 3.5k where it starts to feel like it is really going to take off in a big way. The mk 3 Golf diesel ASD box with G60 3rd and 4th feels good, although I have not had chance to put it through a full gear selection and use the very long 5th gear (60mph = 2k rpm).

 

I am hoping it will settle a little once the engine has some more miles on it and it really needs a proper ECU map to get it running nicely. Engine temps get high in traffic but the cooling fan is doing its job ok this year, I would like to fit a smaller fan to the oil cooler as that will help greatly when stop start traffic.

 

So some brake bleeding, gearbox cables to sort, stick some wax on it and an oil change and she should be ready to go on Thursday for the run down to BVF on the Friday.

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Next problem was the gear selection, I couldn't select reverse in the morning so had adjusted the cables at the gearbox, this resulted in reverse being where 1st normally is, 1st and 2nd where 3rd and 4th are, 3rd where 5th is, 4th in the empty hole behind 5th and no 5th gear at all :(.

you using the tdi gear linkage mate or the original g60 stuff? I heard the tdi stuff doesn't really fit and allow smooth gear changes

 

Edit: Well done by the way!

Edited by Alex_G60_Fanatic

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Good to hear. Its probably somewhere in the thread but what are the power /torque figures generally like for these engines? I remember the Ltd Golf was around 210bhp.

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Thanks folks.

 

Alex, TDi stuff and it all clears ok as the gearbox side of my install is not exactly factory so nothing is catching it.

 

Steve, yes some Redline MTL90 and it is a defo a cable selection problem, its just in the wrong place!

 

Gareth, Just need to get down the road in one piece to calm my nerves a little, be good to catch up and play spot your modifications since last year.

 

Coullstar, Limited was indeed 210bhp but I would expect a bit more given the differences in my setup, a 16vg60 using more standard bits but with a smaller pulley in a golf produced 215bhp with a nice flat torque curve that peaks at 250Nm with a profile similar to a VR6 plus a bit more. It did feel much nicer than last year on the drive to and from the MOT yesterday so hopefully post a decent mapping session it should be very good.

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yands,your having the same problem i did when i put the ASD box into my G60. keep the original shifter tower,its much better cause tdi one the cable are stressed at certain angles!

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yands,your having the same problem i did when i put the ASD box into my G60. keep the original shifter tower,its much better cause tdi one the cable are stressed at certain angles!

 

that's what i was going by... you've had that ASD box in there for a while though and it was shifting fine last year... you had the ASD fitted then yeah??

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