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Tempest

Wrong tools at my local garage ...

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Well, after a lot of trying to get the blasted crankshaft pulley 12-point stretchbolt out of my G60 Rado, I gave up and decided to let my local garage do the trick.

 

They did thanks to the power of an airgun (wish I could afford some £500 expensive ridiculous high-torque gun like that, not to mention a well-proper air compressor and resevoir), but then did'nt have the right socket to get the DX-engine 6-sided non-stretch bolt back in :cry: As the non-stretch bolt has a 22mm head (cp. to the 19 mm head of the original bolt), their high-impact sockets didn't clear the inner hole of the pulleys :cry:

 

Moral of the story: They reinserted the original bolt and made me book in the Rado for the job (as I refused to drive the Rado with said used bolt) :mad: I dropped off my own socket later on, as I'd just tried my socket last night, and it did clear the pulley hole.

 

Angry? Yes, as I'm now at work waiting in anxiety what's going to happen to my baby :mad: , whilst I could have done the job entirely myself, had I had a proper airgun + compressor (minor detail ... :oops: )

 

Tempest

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damn them!!!!

its a conspiracy!

she should be ok? you still got your rocco's as backup if its in for any time?

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Just had a call from them: They had to take the cambelt off!!!!!

 

Said because the pulley had skewed slightly since the original bolt came out (because of the tension exerted by the damper on the polyribbed belt, forgot to mention that to 'm ;-) ), they then wanted to undo the 4 Allen bolts holding the outer 2 pulleys to the camshaft pulley in order to properly seat the pulleys again, but all 4 bolts rounded off :mad:

 

That's just bl**dy typical on mine, as Darren from G-Werks will be able to confirm, having spent 2 hours undoing 2 bolts on the pulley side of my G-Lader when he wanted to take it out (normally a 20 minute job, taking the entire Lader out) for a rebuild back in November.

 

Just hope the woodruff key on the crankshaft hasn't taken any damage in the process :roll:

 

Bl**dy rust !

 

Well that's another case then of "I'm glad I failed and had it done by someone else!" Although it's starting to cheese me off, the bad shape my Rado really seems to be in as far as DIY jobs are concerned. At least I managed to change all the engine mounts (even the gearbox one, being a LHD Rado, no mean feat, as it's virtually inaccessible plus rust etc.) back in September :lol:

 

Tempest (wondering what the bill will be :roll:, and having to check ignition and engine timing now ...)

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If you need any lifts in the mean time Eric to or from the garage to get your car, i'm more than happy to oblige!

 

Good luck getting it all sorted!

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I swear VW went a bit mad with the torque settings on the G60 engine as I've had similar experiences on Supercharged's lump. The VR6 comes apart like lego, not had one tough bolt on that engine yet :D

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Yeah, mind you Kev - you swapped the crank bolt in no time at all, it was the cambelt we spent the next 3 days doing, lol

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wish I could afford some £500 expensive ridiculous high-torque gun like that, not to mention a well-proper air compressor and resevoir)

 

 

I picked up an impact wrench, hose and massive 3 pot compressor for under £100

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I picked up an impact wrench, hose and massive 3 pot compressor for under £100

 

Ouch, that hurts, as the bill came to £78 my fellow Rado-admirers !! :mad: Allegedly it took them 3 hours to do the job, but nice guys that they are only billed me for 1.5 hours!

 

3 hours to swap a crank shaft bolt :mad:

 

Just checked the timing marks (turning the crankshaft with my trusty 22 mm socket that inserts completely into the pulley centre holes no problems) but they seem to have not messed those up, when they had the cambelt off. Then spent some time together with my Dad doing the ignition timing (one of those things I hate about the G60, as on my 8V Roccos I can do that all alone, but with the G60 you need some berk to keep the engine revving between 2000 and 2500 rpm, and no, my Dad's not a berk :lol:). Taken it to work again, and I could swear that it pulls a little better again. Will have to take it out for a serious spin after work :-)

 

Still have to inspect the status of the 4 bolts on the pulleys, seem used ...

 

If you need any lifts in the mean time Eric to or from the garage to get your car, i'm more than happy to oblige!

 

Thanks for the kind offer Jim, but alas it was all foot work so far, i.e. me walking :lol: Will take you up one day, though.

 

Tempest

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Tempest, Maybe I'm missing something here (or just a bit thick). I recently set the timing on my G60, after having disconnected the blue temp sender to disable the ECU corrective timing.

 

The timing setting of 6 degrees advance didn't alter relevent to the engine speed. Wether the engine was running at 1k or 2.5k rpm my timing light still registered 6 deg BTDC.

 

If I've done this correctly - why do VW specify that the timing is set at 2.5k rpm ? Or is one of my sensors dead ?

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Tempest, Maybe I'm missing something here (or just a bit thick). I recently set the timing on my G60, after having disconnected the blue temp sender to disable the ECU corrective timing.

 

The timing setting of 6 degrees advance didn't alter relevent to the engine speed. Wether the engine was running at 1k or 2.5k rpm my timing light still registered 6 deg BTDC.

 

If I've done this correctly - why do VW specify that the timing is set at 2.5k rpm ? Or is one of my sensors dead ?

 

just did the same on mine today...timing was samw from idle to high revs...changed at say 3500 upwards though

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Nice one - I'm gonna check the ignition timing again over the weekend, now that I've adjusted the cam timing by 10 degrees to suit my new camshaft.

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Steve: Only explanation for the 2500 rpm value is better reading as the timing light fires more often per second, resulting in a seemingly steadier/easier to read mark on the flywheel. I too noticed that the timing mark, with the blue sender disconnected, did not move from idle to 2500 rpm, I just felt it was easier to read at 2500 rpm.

 

Well, just had a quick look at the 4 pulley bolts, 2 rounded off :mad:, so how on earth they allegedly managed to take the cambelt off and put it back on again is beyond me, unless the cut the bottom plastic cover, which I yet need to inspect.

 

Great though, that I now have 2 rounded off bolts, even though I probably would have rounded them off myself as well, I suppose : :roll:

 

Ah well, I'll quiz 'm on that one tomorrow, see what they have to say :lol:

 

At least I had some fun on the A46 after work, hope I didn't get caught doing 120 mph (still plenty of oomph left) at one point when going underneath a bridge with 2 stationary unmarked cars on it :roll: My timing effort was successful, the "outsourced job" to a lesser degree, typical :roll:

 

Tempest

 

Tempest

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I also have rounded the same 4 pulley screws in the past - they come out fairly easily. Hammer a spline key into the bolt heads & they'll unscrew okay.

 

I never re-use those 4 bolts, even if they look okay - I fit new ones every time.

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At least I had some fun on the A46 after work, hope I didn't get caught doing 120 mph (still plenty of oomph left) at one point when going underneath a bridge with 2 stationary unmarked cars on it :roll: My timing effort was successful, the "outsourced job" to a lesser degree, typical :roll:

 

120MPH?! Thats not like you Eric! :D :)

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120MPH?! Thats not like you Eric!

 

Hohum, I've done that before in my Roccos, just to test, of course :lol: But that's about as fast as they'll go comfortably (the Storm's speed indicators doesn't go any further, but it still felt as if it could go faster :-)), whereas the Rado still could have gone further, I just didn't dare, one day ...

 

 

a spline key into the bolt heads & they'll unscrew okay.

 

Spline key, yeah, was thinking of that one as well, but it's just that I want to know what I've actually paid £78 for :roll:

 

Tempest

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