1.8 16v oil temp problem

[Ad2408 0]

Hi

 

Just got my 1991 1.8 16v and its oil seems to run alot hotter than my old Golf did,is there anything wrong?

 

It seems to sit over 100 degrees most of the time and has got upto 120 in traffic.

 

Coolant temp is normal(around 90 degrees ish)

 

Anything I could check?

 

Thanks in advance

 

Adam

[Walesy 0]

does the oil temp go down as you are driving?....or does it stay the same?

[davidwort 0]

Hi

 

Just got my 1991 1.8 16v and its oil seems to run alot hotter than my old Golf did,is there anything wrong?

 

It seems to sit over 100 degrees most of the time and has got upto 120 in traffic.

 

Coolant temp is normal(around 90 degrees ish)

 

Anything I could check?

 

Thanks in advance

 

Adam

 

They do run fairly hot (16v's that is - don't know if your golf was 8 or 16v?), if you change the oil for some 10/40 semi-synthetic, coolant change and check the plugs aren't running too hot (visual inspection) I'd say everything is probably OK.

thermostats can stick, and the radiator will be less efficient the older it gets (sludge and scale). Make sure you're running super unleaded fuel, optimax etc.. and not 95 octane or at least that the car is not pinking under heavy load on 95.

In 8 years, and on 3 16v engines, 1.8 and 2 2.0's my normal running oil temp has been about 102-108 degrees, if your water is OK then that's another pointer to everything being alright as the heat exchanger (on top of the oil filter) will be cooling the oil with the water system.

 

David.

[Henny 0]

Corrados tend to run slightly hotter than golfs simply due to the design of the front end... the golf has a much larger front grill area to get air into the engine bay too cool the radiator and thus the engine... ;)

[Baz2004 0]

oil for some 10/40 semi-synthetic

 

Is this the best stuff to use on valvers? Would it be good for mild track use?

[Walesy 0]

mild track use?

 

:scratch:

[Ad2408 0]

Hi

 

My temp does seem to vary but on a decent run this morning (25miles at 70-80ish) the oil was (according to the MFA) between 108-120.

 

Seems a lot higher so I'm wondering if the muppet before me has put a really weak coolant solution into the engine.

 

Could this cause my problem?

 

Also what is the best way to drain the coolant system and flush it through?

 

Thanks again

 

Adam

 

Adam

[Baz2004 0]

mild track use?

 

:scratch:

 

2-3 track day’s a yr and not really bollocking it around at that.

[davidwort 0]

Hi

 

My temp does seem to vary but on a decent run this morning (25miles at 70-80ish) the oil was (according to the MFA) between 108-120.

 

Seems a lot higher so I'm wondering if the muppet before me has put a really weak coolant solution into the engine.

 

Could this cause my problem?

 

Also what is the best way to drain the coolant system and flush it through?

 

Thanks again

 

Adam

 

Adam

 

High percentage of anti-freeze will probably run hotter than just water actually, I'd drain the system, fill with just tap water, run for a short while, allow to cool, re-drain and fill with 50/50 distilled water and regular quality blue coolant from GSF etc.. unless it has always been run on the red coolant from VW, some of the early versions of which cannot be mixed with blue coolant and run the risk of blocking water-ways by creating a gel.

I just drain from the bottom rad hose, bleeding the air out on a re-fill can take a couple of runs in the car and a couple of top ups, but try to get at least four or five litres of coolant in before running the car.

I've known people run a car with a garden hose attached to the system and the water just draining straight out, but you shouldn't let coolant just run into the water course. One plain eater re-fill and re-drain should get it pretty clean.

 

David.

[Supercharged 2]

Nope - only use VW's G12+ (can be mixed with wither G11 or G12) and only use 30-40% max with the rest water.

[davidwort 0]

Nope - only use VW's G12+ (can be mixed with wither G11 or G12) and only use 30-40% max with the rest water.

 

I've always run my Corrado on the old blue stuff (it's designed for cast iron and alloy too) and have had no corrosion to the block, head, rads or heat exchanger, and thats over 8 years and 100,000 miles and inspection after engine re-builds.

As far is I'm concerned you're just wasting money on G12+ as it's likely that the system will have to be drained again before the cheaper stuff starts to loose it's corrosion protection anyway, hoses/water pump replacement etc..

 

 

David.

[Supercharged 2]

But G12+ isn't anymore expensive?

 

It's an improved formula - thats why VW only sell G12+ now...